After the Gawler Ranges we headed back to the Coast. Had a quick look at Streaky Bay, but decided to press on and set up camp at Perludi Beach.
Perludi Beach is a “non-touristy” beach on the bight that is sheltered by Eba Island. There is a small settlement of ‘beach shack’ dwellings on the hillside where local wheat farmers have bought and built their seaside weekend retreats – complete with the retired unregistered ex- farm tractor to pull the fishing boat down to the water. The beach has a number of big wooden thatched shade shelters that were built nearly 100 years ago, and some play equipment. Ethan was swinging on a swing completely surrounded by water at high tide.
As with all the beaches along the coast here –this was supposedly a renowned fishing spot – so Steve and Ethan headed out in the canoe to test their luck – whilst I tried out the shade shelter with a good book (reading dirt music ) & a cup of coffee.
Sadly they returned 3 hours later unburdened by fresh fish, whilst I on the other hand had been given an ENORMOUS fish by one of the successful wheat farmer’s fishing trips !!! I did take the time to point out ever so subtly that I was a more successful fisherperson without ever leaving my chair or casting a line.
The mouse plague continues to follow us, although not quite as bad here as at the Gawler Ranges. We are still kept awake by the sound of mice scrabbling, scratching, and runnin over the tent.
After 3 nights it was off to Ceduna, where the town is quite famous for its fabulous oysters. SO stopped at the Ceduna Oyster Bar where Ethan had his first serve of Oysters Kilpatrick , & some beautiful freshly shucked oysters with lemon – mmmmm yum.
Our destination though, was Cactus Beach at Point Sinclair Camping Ground. This whole area is protected under the Sth Aust Govt Heritage Agreement as a Coastal Protection Researve. The campground is unique and quite wonderful. It is a privately owned and operated property of 550 hectares and the owner – Ron Gates was born and bred at Brighton and was a St Pats boy. He tells us he arrived at this area about 34 years ago and stayed on, eventually buying the property in 1986. It has an interesting history as the Wiringu Aboriginal People lived here for 1000’s of years and their middens are still visable near the caves. The area was explored by the Dutch in the 60’s and Edward Eyre in the 1840’s on his way to WA.
Pioneering SA surfer Wayne Dale brought film-maker and original owner Paul WItzig here in 1969. At that stage Ron tells us, Cactus Beach was only known to a few surfers and there were no facilities. Living conditions became “feral” and the fragile coastal environment was being damaged. In 1976 the lands dept office and surfer Jeff Edwards drew up the plans on which the current camp is based, and Ron took over as owner.
The surf beach is still world renowned with both left and right breaking waves. The sand on both the beach and the towering sand dunes is white, and there are amazing limestone formations and blow holes. Ethan had great fun on the dunes.
The camp ground here has these fabulous ½ walled pit toilets lined with garbage bags – meticulously cleaned and changed daily. There are also stone and wood wind breaks that surround fire places – with the firewood delivered daily by Ron. It was so much fun here. There are a number of permanent residences – all surfers who tell us they have been living here for 35 years – arrived in their early twenties and just never left!! Great story tellers – and still surfing!
