Wednesday 21st November
The railway station was just across the road from the hotel, so very convenient for catching an early morning train. I thought things would be dead outside at 4.30am, but the streets were still quite busy with traders and people standing about fires or food stalls. The station was also full of people, many of whom were sleeping on the floor; whether they were waiting for trains or just there to sleep for the night, I couldn't tell.
The train itself was good: almost new and probably imported (as I had been told previously, some of these trains are brought in from Germany). The journey to Delhi was a distance of about 500kms and cost just under 10 quid, and for that you got breakfast, tea and biscuits, bottled water, orange juice, newspapers....all of which were served to you in your seat. This was so much better than the bus!
Most of the passengers on this train were affluent people, many of whom seemed to be on their way to Delhi for business purposes. I chatted to the guy in the seat beside me - a jewel trader from Amritsar - and he had some interesting things to say about India, most memorably what he believed to be a direct link between the extreme poverty amongst much of the population and the level of corruption amongst India's politicians. Evidence of this poverty could be seen all along the route, with many families living in makeshift homes or city slums at the edge of the train tracks.
It was interesting to be back in Delhi, this time armed with a bit more knowledge about the place than when I had first arrived in India. I checked into a hotel in the same area as I had stayed before, and realised that this part of town is even more hectic than anywhere else I have been, with the hassle from people trying to sell you stuff being the biggest and most constant pain in the arse. I am now learning that it's best just to completely ignore any approaches or comments as, invariably, that person is ultimately just trying to make a quick buck from you.
It is a funny and common sight about the main tourist areas of Delhi to see one or more western tourists with an Indian guy hanging off them, clearly having latched himself on to them in the hope of getting whatever they can from them. I have been approached about 10 times a day from guys who seem to be very friendly and interested in where you're from, only for the conversation to turn to how much they might be able to sell a tour to me for. It makes me want to totally ignore these people, genuine or not, as it's all a waste of time. It's sad, as it makes me distrust anyone who approaches me.
I spent most of this first day back pottering about town and getting my bearings so I could approach the next few days' sightseeing with a bit more of an idea of where it was I wanted to go.
