Mark's World Tour 2007-08

Gallery: New Zealand

markr_mcmahon — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 02:08:00 GMT

Day 268: NZ to the USA: Going back in time!

markr_mcmahon — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Wednesday 30th July

I got up at 08.00 and made breakfast with the last of my groceries, happily putting the rest of the food that I wasn't able to use up on to the free-food shelf in the hostel. I imagined that this aspect of my trip – carrying two bags of groceries about with me and cooking for myself – was going to be a thing of the past as I made my way to North America. It's not the most glamorous aspect of backpacking, but it is certainly economical and generally healthy, if you want it to be.

I checked out of the hostel and stored my rucksack in their storage room, while I went back to the library to send a few more emails and make sure that I was prepared for the entry into the US, an experience that has proved to be far from the warmest of welcomes (although I had never had as much questioning as I had when I had arrived into Perth three months before).

It was a grey and drizzly kind of day in Christchurch, and it made me recall how wet it had been in Auckland and the Northlands area when I had arrived into New Zealand with my folks six weeks before. I was now very excited about jetting back to the summertime and getting some sun and heat to warm my bones.

I got back to the hostel to pick up my bag, and then walked into Cathedral Square to get the bus to the airport, arriving there at 13.30. My flight to Auckland was scheduled to leave at 15.00, so I was in plenty of time, something that I had gotten better at over the years. These days there isn't so much of a panic, and I am almost sure to make my rendezvous with all forms of public transportation.

The plane took off on time and arrived into Auckland as scheduled at about 16.30. It's a bit of a stroll from the domestic terminal to the international one, and it came as no surprise to see the rain pouring down in Auckland. I did a bit of shopping in Duty Free and went to the departure gate to find out that the American Airlines fight to LA was delayed by an hour. It was no big deal and I waited about, checking out the people that were heading on the same flight. There were more than a few young people on their way back to the US from Australia, via New Zealand, as many of them carried red and yellow backpacks with 'World Youth Day 2008' enscirbed on them, and some of the crazier types even sporting t-shirts with Pope Benedicts picture on them!

We eventually boarded the plane and I took my seat beside a woman who lived near Wanaka. She was nice and we chatted about some of the places that I had visited. We were also lucky to have a free seat between us and this made the journey all the more comfortable. The flight was about eleven hours in total, and the time passed nice and quickly for such a long trip. I managed to get some sleep, and I was also quite occupied by the inflight entertainment and the food.

We arrived into LA at 12.30, and the contrast in the environment with New Zealand couldn't have been any more marked: the mountainous, green terrain and cold, wet weather had been changed for the flat urban sprawl of LA, while the sun blazed down and the thick blanket of smog made me feel like choking just looking at it. It was such a huge difference, and the scene that was greeting us in LA was nowhere near as appealing as the one we had left, even if it was sunnier.

The entry through US Immigration was no hassle at all, and their approach seemed to be much better than on previous visits to the US; a woman walked through the line of people, making sure we had filled their forms in correctly, even doing it with a touch of humour, which I thought I would never see.

However, the delay in arrival and the sheer number of people waiting in line to be 'processed' meant that I missed my connecting flight to Chicago. After speaking to the AA staff, I was put on the next scheduled flight that was to leave at 15.30, and given a $15 lunch voucher to placate me (although I was in no way put out by the delay, this was just another part of the experience). There were very few options for lunch, and I had a choice between Starbucks and Burger King, and I was determined not to settle for fastfood at BK as my first meal in the US. It was my intention to try and avoid that kind of shit for as long as possible.

The AA flight left Chicago on time at 15.30 and I enjoyed the view as we flew over what must have been the Sierra Nevada. We arrived into Chicago at 21.00 and I took a train and then a cab to Ingrid's apartment near Lincoln Park, finally getting there at 22.30. It was really good to see her, and we sat up for a while and chatted before I conked out on the couch, ready for a decent sleep after another long journey.

Day 267: Back to Christchurch

markr_mcmahon — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Thursday 29th July

I checked out of the 'Dusky Lodge' hostel in Kaikoura and did a bit of shopping before I got on a fairly rundown minibus at 10.30. The weather took a turn for the worse as we made our way south along the coast, but there was no more to see on the way down to Christchurch than there had been on the way up. The day started to pick up as we approached Christchurch, and it was nice and sunny when we arrived into the city centre at 12.30.

The driver dropped me off round the corner from 'Vagabonds Backpackers Hostel'. I had booked a single room for my last night in New Zealand so that I had more space to repack my rucksack and to have a change from a room full of other people. It only cost NZD40, and the hostel was a good place to hang out.

I walked into town and went to the library, did some emailing and did a bit more research on the North America trip, just to make sure that I was giving it the best shot that I could. I was planning on treating myself to a fancy dinner, but I was still in the mood for saving my money and I ended up eating pasta and tuna. It still tasted really good after having eaten it so many times over the last few months!

I got my bag packed, making sure that I jettisoned what I didn't need and, being the good backpacker, making sure that there was efficient use of all the space in the bag that I had come to know and love so well. My last night in New Zealand was an early one like so many of them had been. I had had the most incredible time in New Zealand, and seen so many awesome things, but I was very much looking forward to going to the US, and particularly to catching up with my friends over on the other side of the Pacific. It was going to be a long journey that would take me over half way around the world, and I was very excited about it.

Day 266: Whale watching in Kaikoura

markr_mcmahon — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Monday 28th July

After a good nights sleep I got up feeling a lot more energised than I did the day before, and my mood was made all the better by the fact that the sun was out and the rain had disappeared. This was also the news I was waiting for and a positive sign that the whale-watching trip might actually go ahead. Beth and a few of the others were leaving on the Magic Bus for Picton and she was disappointed not to get the chance to go out on the sea as well.

With my place on the boat booked, I got changed and went for a walk into town, and along the beach. Kaikoura is situated at the foot of snow-capped mountains, and on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, a combination that seems to be typical of New Zealand's South Island. It was a beautiful morning and the scenery was fantastic, and I took it all in while I got the chance. I wasn't going to be in NZ for much longer, and this was the last really stunning place that I would get to visit.

The whale-watching tours depart from the small port at South Bay, a ten minute drive from Kaikoura, and we boarded the boat shortly before 11.00. The company that has the licence to take people out on such trips was very well organised, with top range boats equipped with audio-visual presentations that brought the whole ocean area, and the creatures that lived in and around it, to life. The guide was also entertaining, a lady with a good sense of humour and less staid than the norm.

The captain was responsible for locating the sperm whales using echo location equipment (that looked like a loudspeaker stuck to a rod that was dipped into the water, the sounds from which the captain could hear using earphones). He was also helped by some of the planes that bring people out on alternative whale-watching trips from the air. We managed to see three sperm whales, the major attraction of these being when the whale dives beneath the warming, leaving it's trailing flukes in the air, allowing us tourists to get that all important photo. We got back to shore about two hours after we had left. It was expensive enough at NZD130, but it was also a rare opportunity to see some amazing creatures up close.

After I was back on dry land, I went for a walk along the coast outside Kaikoura, stopped off at a roadside stall for some chowder and fried mussels, saw some seals and birds along the way, and got back to Kaikoura at 16.00. I took a look in some of the shops, did a bit of emailing and got back to the hostel for the evening. After a dinner of fish and chips, I just chilled out for the evening, looking forward to getting back to Christchurch and moving on to the US.

Day 265: Christchurch to Kaikoura

markr_mcmahon — Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Sunday 27th July

I must have had about two hours slight sleep before the alarm went off and I had to be up. I left the hostel just before eight, and the shocking weather of the night before had carried on to the morning. It was miserable, really rotten. I was picked up by the bus and we set off north towards our destination of Kaikoura, a coastal town famous for its whale-watching opportunities.

There wasn't very much to see on the way to Kaikoura, and anything that the driver pointed out was shrouded in rain. Most of us were feeling tired, or hungover, from the night before, and we were just keen to get to Kaikoura and relax. Some of us put our names down for the whale-watching trip, but this was hopeful considering the day that was in it. We got to Kaikoura at 12.30 and I checked into the 'Dusky Lodge' hostel along with a few others on the bus, including Beth who I had been out with the night before.

It was the last time that the Magic Bus was to drop me off and I was glad that the time had come to say goodbye. I didn't regret buying the ticket as it got me from A to B at a reasonable rate, but it didn't provide the same experience that I had when I was touring about with Danike in the rental car. Also, it hadn't proved to be as much fun as the Easyrider bus that I had taken in Australia.

We had to contact the company that did the whale-watching cruises to find out whether it was going ahead, but we already had an idea what the answer was going to be before we were told that all of the trips for the day had been cancelled. So, we spent the rest of the day indoors, relaxing, reading and sleeping in front of the fire, like a bunch of old people in a retirement home.

After dinner, I went for a walk, frustrated at being couped up all day. Thankfully, the rain had stopped and it was a nice fresh evening for a walk into the main street. Most of the shops and restaurants were closed down, making it a proper sleepy seaside town. It was good to stretch the legs and have a look at what was on offer in Kaikoura. I got back to the hostel and chatted to Beth for a bit before I went to bed at 22.00. I was really knackered having had pretty much no sleep the night before, and I conked out shortly after my head hit the pillow.

Day 264: Lake Tekapo to Christchurch

markr_mcmahon — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Saturday 26th July

I got up to a beautifully sunny and clear day. Although I was happy to have a good day, I was also slightly disappointed that it had come a day late and I imagined it would have been a perfect day for getting a sight of Mount Cook. Nonetheless, I was still happy that I had made the effort to go there, and I was the only one from the Magic Bus to do so, and it had been well worth it.

I walked down to the YHA hostel and the Magic Bus picked us up at 08.10 and we set off for the journey to Christchurch. There wasn't a huge amount to see along the way and we got to Christchurch at 12.30. I checked into 'The Old Countryhouse' hostel, a bit of walk away from the town centre, but another quiet and well-run place. I got talking to the very friendly Swiss lady who worked at reception and she loved the fact that I was Irish, so much so that any time I said anything she laughed at my Irish wit, even when it wasn't particularly funny. I wasn't about to knock it though.

After an hour or so, I walked into town and met Kate and Beth, two English girls that I had met on the bus earlier in the day, and we went to the Art Museum, and saw an interesting photography exhibition. We didn't hang about for too long, and went to the supermarket to pick up a few things for dinner. Out of all the supermarkets in New Zealand, 'Pak n Save' is the cheapest and most basic of them all and, even though you can get some good bargains, it isn't the most pleasant of places to be.

I got back to the hostel and made some dinner, did some laundry and called Dave to wish him a happy birthday. He told me that he was off to the Olympics with work, which I was delighted to hear, making him and me two lucky bastards! I got showered and changed and headed into town on a miserably wet and cold night to meet the Magic Bus crowd to watch the grudge match between the All Blacks and Australia. It turned out to be a very entertaining and high-scoring game, but the ABs were pretty terrible and the Wallabies ended up wiping the floor with them. Needless to say, there were a few sad Kiwis leaving the pub after that result.

We stayed out for a few more hours and I made my way back to the hostel for only a few hours kip before I had to be up again for the last leg of my Magic Bus journey, and the trip up the coast to Kaikoura.

Day 263: The great outdoors in Mt Cook

markr_mcmahon — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Friday 25th July

I left the hostel by 08.00, just as the sun was coming up. I started on the walk through Mount Cook village, and there were very few people about, just a couple of people who worked in the area. It was another overcast day, and this hit my hopes of seeing Mount Cook itself on a clear day. However, it could have been worse and I was still optimistic that I might catch a glimpse of New Zealand's highest mountain.

Once beyond the village, I took the 'Hooker Valley' train that would lead towards the Tasman Glacier that sat below Mount Cook. On the way, I stopped at the Alpine Memorial, a stone structure that was built in honour of the people who had died on the mountain range, their names and dedications mounted onto plaques. It was a poignant reminder of the dangers of mountaineering, an activity that serves as a major challenge to many people. The one thing that stood out was the number of young people that had died, the average age of the victims in the early twenties.

I continued on through the Hooker Valley, across rivers, with an awesome backdrop of mountains and glaciers grabbing my attention throughout. The sound of avalanches in the distance made the experience all the more special, almost other-worldy as I had never heard or seen one in real life. The threat of avalanches is very real, but there are signs along the trail warning people of the high risk areas.

I got to Lake Tasman and saw the Tasman Glacier in the distance at the far end but, unfortunately, there was no sign of Mount Cook, cloaked behind the heavy cloud. I knew it was lurking there in the background, and I sat and waited for about fifteen minutes in the hope that it would unveil itself in all its majesty. I also sat and enjoyed the moment, as I was again the only soul in a very beautiful place. I felt once more very grateful to be there. Sadly, my wait was in vain, and the cloud seemed like it was there to stay, so I made my way back in the direction from where I had come.

I stopped at a spot overlooking the Mueller Glacier and the mountains that tower above it. I had lunch and listened out for the avalanches that were falling from the glaciers that sat on top of Mounts Brunner and Sefton. The cloud lay thick over them, but you could see large chunks of snow and ice falling from the higher areas of the glacier. It was an impressive sight, and I enjoyed the show, especially as I was in no danger myself.

I got back to the hostel and hung out there until the bus picked me up at 14.30. It was only when we were driving away from Mount Cook that the clouds started to separate and I got a glimpse of the spiky summit appearing in the distance. Even though it was only an obscured view, it still looked incredible, bigger than I imagined and it made me want to go back straight away and see it up close. Alas, that wasn't going to happen, but I promised myself that I would return one day and hang around for however long it took to see it properly.

I was dropped off by the bus in Lake Tekapo at 15.30 and lugged my bags down the hill to the Lakefront Lodge fully expecting them to have at least one free dorm bed for a night. When I got there, I realised that the Magic Bus that I was due to get the following morning had turned up, and with it about twenty people looking for somewhere to stay. I was told by a sour-looking Chinese girl that they were full, and she wasn't going to give me any suggestions as to where I might find somewhere else. I was pissed off and had to walk back up the hill and to another hostel, the 'Tailor-Made-Backpackers' (which the Magic Bus don't use). It was less modern that the Lakefront Lodge but it was a lot more homely and things worked out better, and not for the first time.

I made dinner and got chatting to a few others, and went down to the pub with a Kiwi called Ian, talked about the rugby for a bit and returned to the hostel about an hour later. The night sky was clear as crystal, and I stood under the stars for about fifteen minutes, enjoying one of the best places in New Zealand to see the nights sky at its best.

Day 262: Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook

markr_mcmahon — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Thursday 24th July

I woke up to find that the heavy rain of the night before had turned to snow, with the result that there was a blanket of snow covering the ground outside the hostel. I was due to get a bus to Mount Cook later in the morning, so I got my stuff together, had breakfast and relaxed while waiting for 11.00 to come around.

The bus picked me up at 11.20, as the snow continued to fall. The coach was a very modern one, with large windows allowing passengers to get a good view of the countryside through which we passed. It seemed that this particular service was popular with Japanese people, as I gathered that they were only stopping in Mount Cook to drop people like myself off, spend no more than a few hours there, and then head on to their next destination. The driver provided us with a running commentary throughout the two hour trip, and he certainly knew his stuff.

The bus dropped me off at the YHA which I had booked the day before. I planned to stay there for a night before getting the same bus back the following afternoon, just about enough time for me to see the sights around Mount Cook and get back to Lake Tekapo to pick up the bus the day after (I was sticking to a tighter schedule now I had just about a week left in New Zealand). The hostel was very quiet, and this made it more obvious that we were in the off-peak season than anywhere else that I had visited on my trip. There were a few Germans (as usual) and a small group of Japanese guys about, but there was a lot of room and it was a good place to stay.

After having some lunch, I walked out into Mount Cook village to check it out. Apparently, there are about 150 full-time residents in the wintertime, and about 230 in the summertime, and the village is made up of a large hotel and information centre, a group of houses, a school, and not a lot else. The mountains are very imposing, with a large glacial valley stretching out in the distance towards Lake Pukaiki, from where we had come that morning.

I got a map and some information from the DoC office, and made up my mind what I was going to do based on the advice of a helpful official there. I then visited the Sir Edmind Hillary Alpine Centre which is housed in the huge Hermitage Hotel. I bought a ticket for the museum and watched a 3-D movie on Mount Cook, which was very impressive, and I also got to see two movies projected onto the semi-spherical ceiling of the auditorium, one on the origins of the solar-system, and one explaining black holes (both of them were on complicated subjects, but were really interesting). I was impressed by the whole set-up at the Alpine Centre, and it was a good way of passing a few hours in a place with not much else to do apart from trekking.

When I left the Alpine Centre and walked out to see the mountains in front of me, there was an amazingly atmospheric feel to the place, with the light and the clouds collaborating to create a pinkish, blue hue. I took some photos, but they'll never convey just how good a moment this was. It made me love the mountains even more, and I couldn't wait to spend a few hours the next day wandering along the trails at their feet.

As it was starting to get dark and there wasn't anything else to do, I went back to the hostel and made some dinner, read the paper, and just relaxed. I got an early night, got stuck into my book and enjoyed the comfort of the hostel as I knew it was pretty cold outside.

Day 261: Dundedin to Lake Tekapo

markr_mcmahon — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Wednesday 23rd July

A couple of us were picked up by the Magic Bus at 08.00 on another grey and cold morning. Along the way out of Dunedin on the road to Lake Tekapo, we stopped off at Baldwin Street, officially 'The Steepest Street in the World'. It was indeed very steep, but I reckon the Spencer Road in Derry is just as difficult to walk up as this one.

One of the sights along the way that day was at the Moeraki Boulders, which were no more than a bunch of large, round rocks that were stuck in the sand (to single this out as a tourist sight is almost an insult to the rest of the country which is usually spectacular). I took the opportunity to book a ticket for the bus from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook the following day. The company that I phoned weren't the most efficient and it took about half an hour to sort it out but I got there in the end.

Our next stop was at Benmore Dam, one of the largest in the southern hemipshere, but, again, it was harldy one of the most impressive sights in a country of such outstanding beauty. It's a mighty construction and generates much of the electricity that is supplied to both the North and South Islands of New Zealand. We stayed there for a short while before we made our way towards Lake Tekapo.

We passed through what is known as 'Mackenzie Country', a large area of land in the middle of the South Island that serves as the main farmland of the country. It was a dull enough day but the scenery was still impressive, and one area which was made famous by yet another of the scenes in Lord of The Rings. We came to Lake Pukaiki, situated at the foothills of grey, stoney, snow-capped peaks, and I was astonished at the colour of the water, a striking turquoise blue that I never knew existed, just another example of what New Zealand can surprise you with! The colour is caused by what is called 'rock salt', tiny particles of rock that have been created by glaciers scraping the sides of the stone, with the effect that it changes the colour of the light that passes into the water.

We got the town of Lake Tekapo and I chose to stay at the 'Lakefront Lodge', one of several options that were on offer in this small town. It was reasonably new, and quite comfortable, and I spent most of the evening reading and relaxing in front of the log fire, as the rain poured down outside. I was fortunate enough to have a dorm room to myself, so I had an early night and enjoyed reading a new book, 'Into The Wild', a true story about an American guy in the early 1990s who left his family and went back to basics in the wild of Alaska. I was more than happy to have the heating cranked up and a comfortable room to myself.

Day 260: Sorting my stuff out in Dunedin

markr_mcmahon — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Tuesday 22nd July

I had a bit of spare time on my hands given that the hospital take care of my arm ahead of schedule the previous day. I spent the whole of the morning in an internet cafe uploading new entries for my online journal, and it felt good to get this updated as it can really start to lag behind.

I went to see 'In The Shadow of The Moon', a documentary of the Apollo Moon voyages, as told by the astronauts who went on those missions back in the 60s and 70s. It was fascinating, with some great commentary and footage, really worth watching.

After dinner at the hostel, I went to the library to do some more research on my trip to North America. It proved to be a very fruitful couple of hours as I found out that there were alternative transport options that would save me a lot of time and money. At last, The Lonely Planet had redeemed itself slightly,proving that it can occasionally serve a useful purpose.

I got back to the hostel and packed my bags as I was due to leave the hostel the next day and head on towards Lake Tekapo. I called Declan & Caitriona to congratulate them on the birth of their first kid, and it was good to catch up with them after so many months.

Day 259: The cast comes off!

markr_mcmahon — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Monday 21st July

After breakfast, I called the hospital as soon as I left the hostel to make an appointment to see someone about taking the cast off my arm. It had been four weeks since I had got it put on in Auckland, and I was hoping that it wouldn't take too much time or complication to get it off. Fortunately, the nurse that I spoke to in the Dunedin Hospital asked me to visit them as soon as possible, so I grabbed all my documentation and headed downtown.

I got to the hospital and the cast was taking off there and then, and I was seen by a doctor who gave me the all-clear. It felt good to get it off, and also to avoid the kind of delays that I had experienced in Auckland a month earlier. I had to go back to the hospital later in the day to sort out the payment but, again, the staff there were very helpful.

I went to the library for the rest of the day and worked on my journal and made use of a few guide books on North America so I could try and organise my trip there a bit better. I got back to the hostel, had some food and then spoke to Mum & Dad later in the evening and heard how they were settling back into life at home after their own travels Down Under.

Day 258: Queenstown to Dunedin

markr_mcmahon — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Sunday 20th July

I had another early start and left the hostel at 07.45 and got back on the Magic Bus again, three weeks after I had been on it last on the journey between Lake Taupo and Wellington. After stopping off at the various hostels around town to pick up everyone else, we left for our destination of Dunedin.

It was a pretty straight run through to Dunedin, with no sightseeing stops scheduled for the day. I was quite happy with this as I wasn't in the mood for stopping for five minutes just to take photos of random stuff, as is usually the case on many of these Magic Bus excursions. We arrived into Dunedin at 12.30 and I checked into the 'Chalet Backpackers' on Castle Street. It was housed in a renovated hospital, so it had a bit of character. However, it was fairly quiet, with only a handful of people staying there that night.

I took a walk into town just to check it out. It's not a very big place, but large enough for New Zealand standards. I did some emailing, went to get some groceries in the supermarket and went back to the hostel to make dinner. I got chatting to an English couple called Therese & Pete, and later in the evening I spoke to Dave & Nuala on the phone (and got a begrudging 'Happy Birthday' sung to me by Orla who wasn't that keen on talking to me until Dave promised her a Milky Way bar in return for a song!).

Day 257: A trip to Milford Sound

markr_mcmahon — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Saturday 19th July

I was up at 06.00 for an early start to a long day trip to Milford Sound. The trip was included in the price of my Magic Bus ticket, and was worth about NZD130 if I had paid for it separately. It was going to be a long day, but Milford Sound is one of the 'must-sees' out of what are many in New Zealand. Before I left, I met Anna, yet another German, who was booked on the same tour and we walked down together to get the bus.

The bus set off at 07.15 and we made our way out of Queenstown and towards the town of Te Anau, the gateway to Milford Sound, on a grey and dreary morning. We stopped at a few spots to take some photos and at Te Anau for a coffee break. It didn't seem like there was much to do there, despite the fact that it is a popular place for people to stay overnight on the way to and from Milford Sound.

We finally arrived at the port in Milford Sound and 12.45 and boarded the cruise boat and left for our trip shortly after. It was a decent sized boat, and we were given a sandwich and as much tea and coffee as we could drink. The rain continued to pour down, not surprising given the fact that the average annual rainfall is between seven and eight metres, making it one of the wettest places on earth. Nevertheless, we got out on deck and braved the winds and showers and it was clearly a beautiful place. We turned back when we had reached the opening onto the Tasman Sea, saw some seals and waterfalls on the way back and got back to the dock about two hours after we had set off.

We got straight back on the bus and arrived into Queenstown at 19.00. It had been a good enough day, if not spectacular. I met Mark and we went to the famous 'Ferg Burger' restaurant. Everyone I had met who had been to Queenstown had raved about the hamburgers and was a bit sceptical about it myself (usually the reality doesn't live up to the hype). However, it was one of the best burgers I have tasted, so everyone was right. We went to see 'Get Smart', which had a few laughs in it, but nothing special. I was knackered after a long day and went back to the hostel and crashed out.

Day 256: Wanaka to Queenstown

markr_mcmahon — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Friday 18th July

I got up to another grey day in Wanaka, but it wasn't too bad, a good day for the drive to Queenstown with Mark. I had decided to get a lift from him as it would be better to have the company and it didn't make sense to leave later in the day just for the sake of using my Magic Bus pass. We took our time in getting ourselves ready, not in too much of a rush as Queenstown is no more than an hour and a half drive away from Wanaka.

We eventually left at 11.00 and I was sad to say goodbye to the guys, especially Danika who I had been travelling with for the last two and a half weeks. We had a lot of fun together and walked a lot, and we both seemed to want to do the same things, so it had worked out well. But, she was going to continue on with her friend Amanda who she had come with to NZ, and it was probably about time that I got back on the bus.

The drive to Queenstown was also very nice, with the usual beautiful scenery, especially the road into Queenstown. Mark dropped me off at the 'Last Resort Backpackers' hostel at 12.30 and I checked into my room, it was small but a good place, with free internet and the beds had decent linen and a small Crunchy on the pillow, not something I had seen anywhere else on my trip!

I met Mark an hour later and we pottered about town for a bit before we decided to go see 'The Love Guru' with Mike Myers. I didn't really think about what I had let myself in for when I bougth the ticket – I was just looking to fill a few hours – but realised that it was a mistake as soon as I sat down in the cinema. It was as bad as I had expected, but it at least passed a few hours.

I left Mark and went back to the hostel, made dinner and then went out to the pub for a bit with some of the guys from the hostel. They were a friendly bunch, and one of them was a girl called Emma whol lived in Stoneybatter, where I used to live for a few months in Dublin. I returned to hostel after an hour or so, and had an early night ahead of an early start the next morning on a long day trip to Milford Sound.

Day 255: A fantastic wintertime birthday

markr_mcmahon — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Thursday 17th July

Given that I was planning on spending only a full day in Wanaka, I was keen to make use of that day – my birthday – to go on a hike of a local mountain, Mount Roy, which I had heard was a round journey of between seven and eight hours. I was going on my own and was glad to have this time to myself. I got up at 06.30 and started my walk at 08.00, just as it was starting to get light. As the day began in earnest, I could see that it was overcast and therefore not the best conditions for a walk, but it wasn't going to change my mind about going.

I took the Waterfall Creek Walk alongsid Lake Wanaka and it took about an hour before I came to a sign pointing hikers in the direction of the Mount Roy walk. After another ten or fifteen minutes, I came to the bottom of the mountain and set off on my ascent of 1600m.

The first part of the walk is through private land and the incline is steep from the very start. I'm not sure what the gradient was, but I was panting and wheezing shortly after I left the car park, but tried to continue without stopping for as long as possible. There were a lot of sheep on the land, and a few cows, and there wasn't much else to see as the cloud began to get thicker the higher I went. I could see Lake Wanaka and the town in the distance, but after about an hour I couldn't see it anymore. I just kept at it and it was certainly more taxing than any other track that I had been on in New Zealand.

Shortly after, I started to get a glimpse of the mountains above me, and patches of clear blue sky were beginning to take shape here and there. The cloud began to thin out and become wispy and I was able to make out an area that I thought was the summit of Mount Roy, with a higher summit behind it. Little did I know that I would be going all the way to the top.

After an hour and half, the privately owned land gave way to public land, and I was about to climb over the wire fence when I decided to take a look behind me and see what kind of view there was. When I looked around, I was taken totally by surprise to see that I was now completely above the cloud level, which had formed a blanket across the horizon like massive clumps of cotton wool, and with the peaks of several mountain ranges bursting through them, sitting beneath a blue and silver sky. It was absolutely amazing and I was genuinely awestruck. I couldn't believe that I had left a dismal grey day behind and had come across what seemed to me like a totally different place.

I continued on and, although the track was as steep as ever and now had a layer of snow and ice over the top of it, the going got easier as what sat before my eyes was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen. The track winded its way up the side of the mountain, and I realised that I was all alone. I made it to the summit in about two and a half hours, a time that included several photo stops, so it was a decent enough attempt.

As I made my way across the final bit of the track, a whole new range of mountains to the south west opened out in front of me, and they looked incredible, making me feel very small. The only thing at the top of Mount Roy was me and a remote weather station and the panoramic view of the mountains and the cloud which separated me from the rest of the world below is something that I won't forget for a long time. I sat and ate my lunch, had a breather and took it all in, trying to savour the moment as much as possible. The feeling was fantastic: I was completely alone on top of a mountain, and, when I stopped and listened, I couldn't hear a thing. I have to admit that I felt quite emotional over the course of that climb but it would take a cold-blooded person not to be moved by what I saw. I was very happy that I had made the decision to climb Mount Roy that day, and extra grateful as it made my birthday so memorable, and I don't usually care about birthdays!

The decent of the mountain was naturally a lot quicker than the ascent, and I met a few people on their way up. I met an Aussie guy who was struggling with the steepness of the slopes, but I encouraged him to make an extra effort as it would be worth it. I made it down to the car park in about an hour and a half, back to the bottom of the hill and to the grey day that I had left behind a few hours earlier.

It took me another hour before I was back at the hostel and I was greeted by Danika and Amanda with birthday wishes. I was feeling physically tired but in very good spirits, and looking forward to spending the evening with my new friends. After doing some laundry, I got freshened up and joined the guys for a dinner of homemade burgers and chips.

We went to the local cinema – Paradiso – which is a famous place in Wanaka, and rightly so. It is fitted out with rows of reclaimed but very comfortable sofas, and even an old Morris Minor that has been converted into a seating area for three people. We watched Mike Leigh's new movie – 'Happy-Go-Lucky' – about an abnormally happy girl living in London (an oxymoron in itself!), and it was quite enjoyable. It reminded me of my time spent living in London, and I even recognised a pub in Camden that I used to drink that was used in one of the scenes. The best thing about it though, was the fact that there was an old-style intermission during which you could buy homemade ice-cream and freshly made cookies. Seeing as it was my birthday, I had them both and they were top-notch.

If all that food wasn't enough, the guys brought out a birthday cake for me back at the hostel, and I was the focus of attention for a minute while everyone sang 'Happy Birthday' to me. I was really chuffed, and appreciative of the effort that the guys – some of whom I had known for only a brief time – had gone to to make my birthday, and one so far away from home, so special.

I didn't do ahuge amount else that evening, just relaxed in front of the TV but I was more interested in getting some sleep after my outing up Mount Roy earlier in the day. It had been a great birthday for me, one I will remember for a long time.

Day 254: Franz Josef to Wanaka

markr_mcmahon — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Wednesday 16th July

Danika and I got our stuff together and left Franz Josef with Mark on our tail, as we were all making a move towards the town of Wanaka, situated about three hours drive south of Franz Josef. We had heard from various people that this was the drive in all of New Zealand, as we were to pass through some quite diverse countryside, but always be in the shadow of the powerful and beautiful snow-capped mountains. The weather wasn't so good, but we were grateful that it at least wasn't raining.

We expected to pull over on quite a few occasions to take pictures of the countryside, and our first stop was at Lake Matheson which is a famous location for the reflection of Mounts Cook and Tasman on the surface of this 'mirror lake'. Unfortunately, the mirror must have been broken, because the view wasn't exactly what they had advertised in the brochure, so to speak. It was still a very impressive sight, just not as good as it could have been.

While Lake Matheson didn't do much to impress, the images that were created by the reflections on Lake Paringa were exceptional, with the long, thin, low lying cloud sitting just above the lake, creating some really cool shapes, which were then inverted by the reflection of the lake. I managed to get some good photos but the sandflies forced us back into the car and we set off again.

We stopped for a lunch break in the small town of Haast, located at the foot of the Southern Alps, and the point at which the road takes an eastward turn across the mountains. It was also the point at which the scenery started to get serious. We were surrounded by mountains on either side of the road, our little white hunk of shit car dwarfed by these white-capped monsters as we snaked our way along the Haast Pass. Lake Wanaka came into view and we stopped for more photos.

I had never really given too much consideration to why New Zealand is called Aoteora, Maori for 'The Land of the Long White Cloud', but it was at this spot that the notion sunk in: across the water, we could see a mountain range with one long continuous cloud sitting at mid-height. The blue sky made this look even more emphatic.

We got back in the car and passed over another hill and were greeted with another breath-taking sight: Lake Hawea and Mt. Melina in the distance. As we drove along the road that sticks closely to the outline of the shore of Lake Hawea, we could see more mountain ranges and long white clouds. It was absolutely stunning and I felt extremely lucky to be getting the chance to see this in the flesh. There aren't many photos that can do this kind of sight much justice at all.

The last bit of the journey was a gentle drive into Wanaka, and what looked like a busy alpine resort. We checked into 'The Purple Cow' hostel which is situated overlooking Lake Wanaka and the mountains in the distance, and met Danika's friend Amanda, who I had last seen at the hostel in Auckland over three weeks previously.

After Mark and I went food shopping and made dinner, we took a walk about town to check it out and we stumbled across a decent internet cafe and we spent an hour or so sending off a few emails. We returned to the hostel and played a few games of ping-pong and I discovered that the cast on my hand had given me extra strengths and abilities at the game. I could actually play half decently and it was good fun.

Day 253: The Franz Josef Glacier Hike

markr_mcmahon — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Tuesday 15th July

I was up at 07.00, got myself together and prepared my food for the lunch that day (you have to bring your own food on the glacier hikes) and headed over to the Franz Josef Glacier Guides office at 09.00 to get kitted out with our gear for the day. This comprised of a Gortex rain jacket, waterproof trousers, socks, boots, crampons (with which to grip the ice), gloves and a hat. It was all provided free of charge and meant that our own gear didn't get worn any more than it had to.

We piled onto the bus and arrived at the Franz Josef National Park car park, and from there we walked about ten minutes before we arrived in the glacier valley and got our first glimpse of the mass of ice in front of us. We split into groups, and I joined the first one which we were told would move at a quicker pace than all the others, and be a bit more strenuous as a result. I don't like too much hanging about and would prefer to combine a bit of exercise with my sightseeing so this group suited me fine.

Although the glacier seemed to be very near, we still had about half an hours walk before we arrived at the ice face, at which point we strapped the crampons over our boots and began the steep incline up the side of the glacier. We had been told that the glacier is currently advancing, after years of recession. However, it will have to go a long – and inconceivable – way before it can get back to the point where it's face rested hundreds of years ago.

We spent the first part of the day hiking amongst the dirty ice of the lower glacier, and this is the area that those taking the half-day hike reach and go no further. We climbed higher than this, towards the really blue ice further up that was what we had all come to see. The weather was perfect, quite sunny and completely dry, in contrast to some of the reports of how wet it can be on some of these glacier hikes.

We stopped at 12.00 for lunch and took a half hour break, and I ate from the moment we sat down to the time we had to get up again and carry on with our hike, something which made me very proud of myself. I enjoy the kind of appetite that comes from exercise, at least you get away with eating more anyway.

The day was an enjoyable one, and our guide for the day – a chap from Maine in the US – was a really good bloke, interesting and a good laugh as well. We got back to the bus at 17.00 and were back in the hostel by 17.30 at which stage I took a very nice hot shower and got even warmer with a few bowls of particularly peppery vegetable soup that was served up by the hostel.

I spent a bit more time in the internet place and returned to the hostel for a bit of a rest after a lot of physical exertion during the day. I got chatting to an American girl who was on some sort of conservation-based holiday with what seemed like a group of idiots, but I didn't stay up too late as I was finding in difficult to keep awake, I was completely shattered.

Gallery: Australia

markr_mcmahon — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:17:00 GMT

Day 252: Punakaiki to Franz Josef

markr_mcmahon — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Monday 14th July

Although we had to check out of the hostel by 10.00, I got myself and my gear together at a leisurely pace, had some breakfast and said our goodbyes to the group of people that we had been hanging out with in Punakaiki. It was a decent day and we were thankful for this as we had heard that the drive south to Franz Josef was a really scenic one, and it's always better to have good weather for these trips.

We stopped off in Greymouth to pick up some more supplies at the supermarket, and enjoyed the drive down to Franz Josef where we arrived at 16.30. We checked into the 'Glow Worm Cottages' in this very small town, which is made up of one main street and a bunch of buildings – mainly catering to the tourist population – lining it.

Mark had already arrived there the day before and we caught up with him before we took a walk to the DoC office to figure out what was going on in the area, apart from the obvious glacier hikes which are by far the biggest draw. I had booked myself onto a full day glacier hike for the following day and called into the Franz Josef Glacier Guides office to find out further information on that.

Franz Josef is also very well served with fast and reasonably cheap internet, and I spent a few hours uploading photos in 'The Big Red Bus' internet cafe, and was amazed at how quick it was, especially in comparison to what I had been used to in New Zealand (and, in fact, most other places). The fact that the owners were decent, friendly people also helped.

Like some of the other hostels in Franz Josef, the 'Glow Worm Cottages' serves free hot vegetable soup at 18.00 every day, and it's a popular perk with the backpacking community who stay there. It's also useful in saving a few dollars on dinner, and I could imagine how many soup-only diets were going on over the course of a stay here.

I headed back to the internet place to make the most of the fast connection as it was a particular novelty, and added some photos to ensure that I had another form of a back-up in the event that the camera memory card and all the DVDs I have gathered over the months somehow disappear. After some more food, a group of us went to the 'Blue Ice' pub for a bit and I made sure that I got an early night, to make sure that I was rested sufficiently for the big hike up the glacier the following day.

Day 251: Lazy days in Punakaiki

markr_mcmahon — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Sunday 13th July

It was another very quiet day for me, as I carried on from where I left off the day before: more journal writing, relaxing and eating. I didn't leave the hostel until 16.30 when I went down to the beach with Danika and Deborah (a girl we had first met in the 'Rongo' hostel in Karamea a few days before) to watch the sunset. It was another beautiful sight, with the sky a mixture of pink and blue, reflecting off the water battered rocks to give it a very atmospheric feel.

Later in the evening, we tried to watch the first of the 'Lord of The Rings' movies on Deborah's laptop but it wouldn't work. We were quite disappointed and I would have enjoyed watching the movie again now that I was familiar with some of the scenery, the movie having been shot on location in New Zealand. It had been another lazy day and I was looking forward to moving on to Franz Josef the following day,but also grateful to have had a few days off from any sort of activity.

Day 250: A very easy day in Punakaiki

markr_mcmahon — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Saturday 12th July

The storm that had started before I had gone to bed continued through the night, the wind strong enough to blow open the balcony door at some ungodly hour of the morning. I had woken to find Danika panicking, not sure what was going on but not too concerned for it to keep me awake for too long.

I had a good lie-in, got up and made a leisurely breakfast and chatted to some of the other guests. Most of the very small crowd of people there had moved on or were out for the day, so Danika and I had the place to ourselves for a few hours. I worked on my journal and she read and enjoyed the silence. I also had a chat to the manager of the hostel, a woman called Lisa who was originally from near Ponytpridd in South Wales and had lost none of her accent. We agreed to meet her in the pub later to watch the rugby, the second match between the All Blacks and South Africa in the Tri-Nations tournament.

After lunch, we moved our gear to another house in this small complex, a house called 'Rata' (named after the wood that it was made out of?) and found a different kind of dorm room in the upstairs: single mattresses laid out on the floor in a semi-circle. It was all very cosy but the low ceilings were potentially lethal, with the edges of the carved hardwood completely exposed and waiting for someon to crack their skulls against.

It was even more quiet in this house and, again, I took advantage of this by doing a bit more writing. It was all very relaxing and a nice change to recharge the batteries after a week or so of walking and travelling. Later in the afternoon, we were joined by an English guy called Mark, who happened to be from Hitchin, a town I had visited on a few occasions (he was surprised to hear that anyone was familiar with it).

Punakaiki is most famous for the Pancake Rock formations and the blowholes that are created when holes in the rock act as a kind of funnel which, when the sea comes in at high tide, help to create upward shoots of water. We were told that the high tide was around 18.00 that day, so we went down at 17.00 for half an hour before it got dark. The place was really worth a visit, and the power of the sea was even more evident than it had been on the drive down to Punakaiki the day before. The rocks were getting a real battering as the sea churned.

We returned to the hostel just as it got dark and made dinner and had a chat amongst ourselves before going to the local pub to watch the All Blacks get beaten by the Springboks, revenge for the defeat the week before. The locals were very gracious in defeat, applauding the brilliantly audacious try – from the smallest man on the field – that won the game for South Africa.

It had been a good evening and we all had a laugh before we headed back to the hostel and got some rest.

Day 249: Karamea to Punakaiki

markr_mcmahon — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Friday 11th July

I got up to find a grey day in progress and the cold shower that I took didn't do much to raise the temperture for me. Being a super eco-friendly kind of place, 'Rongo' worked off as little electricity as possible, and the water was heated by solar-panels, meaning that the water could vary considerably depending on the time of day and the weather. A grey early morning, therefore, wasn't going to do too much to warm my cockles, but I braved it out nonetheless. A cold shower is better than no shower in my book.

So, the weather had taken a change for the worse but we weren't too downhearted as there was potential for improvement later in the day. I had discovered that there was a section of land near Karamea called the 'Fenian Area', comprised of a 'Fenian Track', 'Fenian Caves', and a 'Fenian Road'; whoever named these places was obviously trying to force the message home! I was interested to at least have a look at this track, given the Irish connection suggested in these names.

We bade farewell to Paul, Brian and Amber, the guys who worked at 'Rongo', very pleased to have spent a few days at such a cool hostel. We drove to the start of the 'Fenian Track' but Danika and Tom announced that they weren't that pushed on doing any walking that morning, so they dropped me off at the car park and drove back into Karamea to go for hot chocolate. The weather was starting to look up and the clouds were getting whiter, and I planned to meet the guys where they had left me about two hours later.

I walked along for a while, but the track wasn't too exciting. I was taking a few photos whe I saw a guy marching steadily towards me and we got chatting as we walked together. He was on his way to work, his job involving the upgrade of the trail, one of about six people who worked for a trust (separate from the Department of Conservation) that aimed to rebuild the track using as many of the same techniques and materials as the original track layers did over a hundred years before them. He told me that they had chosen to use more modern means to install several bridges, using a Russian helicopter at an expense of NZD7,000 an hour over the course of a week. It was very interesting chatting to him and made the track a bit more interesting than it might have been otherwise.

Danika and Tom arrived just as I was leaving the track, and it was perfectly timed. We left Karamea, moving south towards the town of Westport where we were dropped Tom off so that he could get his bus back to Nelson. He had decided not to carry on with us, instead wanting to get some work in Nelson and then maybe continue his travels when he had a bit more funds.

We stopped for some food at the supermarket, and Westport looked like a thoroughly dismal place in the rain. It had briefly crossed ourminds to stay here but we were glad to have avoided the place. We said goodbye to Thomas and Danika and I set off to our next destination, to the small settlement of Punakaiki.

It rained for most of the trip but we were astonished to see the power of the Tasman Sea, the waves rushing in and crashing against the shoreline. It was the roughest water I have ever seen, and it was absolutely chruning it up. I couldn't imagine much surviving in there and there was no sign of any kind of boats or evidence of fishing. We arrived at the 'Te Nikau Retreat' to find a very warm and welcoming place. There were no free dorm beds available that night, so we took a twin room with ensuite for about ten bucks each more, and were glad to have a bit more comfort, especially as it had started to bucket down outside.

I took the opportunity to do some more updating of my journal, made dinner and just enjoyed being indoors, away from what seemed to be a storm that was only going to get worse. Thankfully, this new hostel was slightly warmer than 'Rongo' where we had stayed the previous two nights.

Day 248: Walking the Heaphy Track

markr_mcmahon — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Thursday 10th July

We were up and out of the hostel pretty early, having got out of bed well before the sun had risen. We organised our food for the trek and drove about fifteen kilometres north of Karamea to the start of the Heaphy Track. We started the walk by 08.15 on another perfect day for a hike: sunny, dry and not too warm or cold, and it felt good to set off into the lush forest and across the first of several bridges.

We had planned to walk for a total of five or six hours, halving the time so that we could complete a return trip over the course of that time. The Heaphy Track sticks closely to the coastline, and the track itself slips onto the many wide beaches that are battered by the Tasman Sea. I found it to be even more appealing a place to walk than the Abel Tasman trail, mainly due to the scenery which was a combination of beaches and forest, but with better light and clearer views of the coastline.

We walked up until 11.30 and took a break for twenty minutes to eat some food, and we would have stayed longer had it not been for the annoying sandflies that buzzed about us, and bit the more unfortunate of us. Apparently, these sandflies can be worse than mosquitos in the summertime, and I was glad that we weren't being exposed to the worst of them.

Returning along the same track, we got back to the car park at 14.00 and took a rest for a while before we headed back to 'Rongo'. The walk had taken more out of me than I had expected, and I was falling asleep in the car on the way back to the hostel. I felt so knackered that I had a lie-down for an hour when we got back and I got up feeling better.

That evening, I sent a few emails, chatted to the guys in front of the fire in the living room of the hostel and had an early night at about 22.00. It was quite chilly at night at 'Rongo' and I laughed when I saw a bunch of hot water bottles sitting beside the sink in my room; I thought it wouldn't do any harm to warm the bed up before I got in, and recalled that it had been quite a few years since I had used one of them (probably in my granny's house!). 'Rongo' wasn't the most luxurious of places but it certainly had more character than them all and we were very glad to have come across this place.

Day 247: St Arnaud to Karamea

markr_mcmahon — Wed, 9 Jul 2008 12:00:00 GMT

Wednesday 9th July

We left the 'Yellow House' hostel before 10.00 and took the State Highway 6 westwards towards the town of Westport. The snow continued to lie on the ground and we passed by some whitened fields and mountains in the distance. However, it didn't take long before the landscape started to change from white fields and blue skies, to brown fields and misty skies. We continued along the winding roads that stuck closely to the Buller River, and arrived into Westport at about lunchtime.

At Westport, we stopped for some groceries and then made our way towards the settlement of Hector where we had identified 'The Slaughterhouse Backpackers' as a good place to stay for the night. It had been very highly rated in the Budget Backpacker Hostels (BBH) guide of which we were members and which we had found to be of a very high standard. This particular place, as well as having a quirky name, was situated about ten minutes walk up the side of a small mountain, along a trodden path. However, a sign on entering the lower car park suggested that it was closed. Nonetheless, we took a walk up to check it out and see if there was anyone about. It was deserted, slightly spooky, and the guy that I met at the bottom of the hill on the way down – who was a bit weird himself – told me that the hostel was shut for the winter months.

It wasn't worth getting dispondent about it, and we headed off north to our second option in the small village of Karamea. We stopped on the main street and took a break, calling into a gallery and shop that was run by a hippy type guy, and who had many photos of India hung on his walls. They all looked quite familiar, and it was nice to see images that helped me recall the start of my trip.

We decided to check out the local hostel, 'Rongo Backpackers', and were met by Paul, the owner, and his bouncy dog called Moo. He showed us around the building that used to be a maternity hospital in a former life, and it was decorated with various forms of artwork, and it felt quite different to the other places we had stayed, but with even more character. It was clear that something different was going on here, and it wasn't purely a money-making exercise.

Before the sun set, Danika, Tom and I went for a walk along the nearby beach and enjoyed the fresh air and beautiful scenery in the late evening. We had been told about a giant piece of driftwood that had been washed up on the beach, and were surprised to see a whole tree sit on the sand. Nobody knew where it had come from but it was the biggest piece of driftwood I had seen. We got back to the hostel after dark and made some dinner and got chatting to some of the other guests who were staying in Rongo.

They had some really cool things going on at Rongo, including a radio show that Paul and his friend Brian were hosting that night from the hostel, and which is broadcast over a 50km radius around the Karamea area. In order to stave off the cold of the night, they had built a large bonfire in the middle of the garden and warmed up an outside hot tub that had been built using an old metal bathtub, and which was warmed by burning embers below it. Some of the guys in the hostel had a go and enjoyed it, but I was too late to prevent the fire from going out, so there was no hot tub beneath the stars for me. I did enjoy a conversation with Paul, who told me more about the hostel and the other projects that he and his friends were working on to benefit the Karamea community. He was a very interesting guy who also played some good blues music. We were very happy to have come across the place by chance and looked forward to spending a few days there.

Day 246: A beautiful day on Lake Rotoiti

markr_mcmahon — Tue, 8 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Tuesday 8th July

I was up at 06.00, woke myself properly with a shower and got changed before heading down into the cold of the kitchen to make some breakfast and prepare my lunch and a few snacks for the days trek. Most of the hostels we had stayed in had been warm, and a good place to get out of the cold and wet of the New Zealand winter, but the 'Yellow House' was a chillier place and we usually ate meals in the dining room there with steam coming out of our mouths. However, the rooms had been very warm and the beds one of the most comfortable I have slept in, and I would take a warm bedroom along with a cold kitchen over the opposite any day.

We were out the door shortly before 08.00 as the sun was starting to come up and changing the colour of the mountains that surrounded us. We drove down to the edge of Lake Rotoiti and saw one of the most incredible sights of this trip: mist sitting above the lake and the sunlight reflecting off the snow-covered mountains to give a pinkish glow to the whole scene. New Zealand had thrown up another beautiful image, the like of which I had not seen anywhere else, and I stood there for a few minutes to enjoy it in the silence of the morning.

It was also absolutely freezing, by far the coldest I had experienced in NZ. It was so cold that my naked hands were starting to hurt with the bite of the frost, while Thomas announced that it was just too much for him, that he would be sitting this particular hike out and returning to the warmth of the hostel. I had no intention of skipping this trip but was going nowhere until I got some protection for my hands, so we returned to the hostel to drop Tom off and for me to pick up a few pairs of socks to stick over my hands. I hadn't yet bought any gloves, considering it a pointless purchase given that normal sized gloves wouldn't fit over the cast on my right arm. The improvised gloves did the trick, however, and Danika and I marched off in a clockwise direction around Lake Rotoiti, a walk that we figured would take us about 7-8hours.

After we got moving, we started to warm up and we made steady progress along the track. A line of trees obscured the view of the lake for much of the first part of the track, but we were able to stop off on some of the rocky promintories by the lakeside to take some photos of the wonderful landscape and some macro shots of the frost-covered ground; New Zealand looked as pretty in close-up as it did on a normal scale. There was noody else on the track and the day was just getting better weather-wise.

However, we got a bit of a chill when we had to take off our shoes and socks and wade through the freezing cold water of a river that fed into Lake Rotoiti. It was a short crossing of only ten metres or so, but long enough for me to feel a numb pain in my legs and feet. As usual, it got the circulation going and we dried off with our backs to another stunning alpine picture. We stopped off at the Coldwater Hut on the edge of the lake for lunch.

We set off on the return journey on the western side of Lake Rotoiti and the track got even easier on this side, with soft ground aided by some spongy moss making it all very comfortable underfoot. We got talking to some passersby, a group of schoolkids or scouts, who looked like they were being dragged along on this excursions by older and more enthusiastic leaders. They looked a tad damp, and they explained that they had come from a stretch of track that was covered by overhanging fur trees, their branches heavy with snow, which was beginning to melt in the afternoon sun, with the effect that it was like walking through a shower.

We carried on without the slightest sight of anything but the most pleasant walking track and could start to make out in the distance the parking lot where we had left the car and started our trek earlier in the day. Then we were forced to take a left up a slight slope and we continued away from the lake, and along a path that was taking us away from where we wanted to go. Then we came across this natural tunnel that we had been told about; it had been made by inwardly hanging trees and the melting snow meant that, any time you brushed by a tree, it dumped a shower of cold water all over you. We had to walk hunched over, and try and slalom our way through this passage in order to minimise the damage caused by these long drips of water. After about half an hour of this, we were starting to get very wet and fed up of this part of the track. We eventually got back onto a main road and walked back to the carpark, slightly wet but also very happy with our walk.

It had been another fantastic hike, not physically demanding, but a decent excursion which had exposed us to some of the best that NZ can offer. We were back at the hostel by 16.00, shortly after which we made dinner, warmed ourselves beside the fire and watched a bit of TV. I did a bit more work on my journal in an upstairs lounge, glad to have somewhere comfortable and quiet to do some writing.