Somewhere after San Rafael (Mexico, of course..)and still on the way to Oaxaca. We needed to stop for the night - crossing a river, it looked inviting to stay at it's banks, but here in Mexico we learned it wise to check with whoever is near and if there is a house (and there are lots - this place is very populated), we knock at the door and ask for permission to camp. So, here we go off the paved road onto a dirt road passed the first house - we didn't want to ask (who knows why, it just is that way sometimes....) The dirt road seem to lead deeper into the forrest and there was another, much funkier house and a person...we ask if we could stay for the night....hmm....not much of a response......another person appeared...she said something in the way of "checking in with madre...." Here comes Madre - ancient it seemed. She looked stern, she smiled and the deal was done: We got to stay and before we knew it, the rest of the fam showed up ..who knows? Cousins and cousins and brothers and sisters and husbands ......just a few and all with smiling faces and no english, so, our little spanish had to do and it did! What a wonderful evening, we got to camp near the poorest house, it seemed, but we were so welcome!!! A cold shower, but we were clean and the people warmed our hearts....what else do we need? We learned every name of every dog, cat person and tree that was around and I did my darnedest to remember them all (at least for the evening) We made dinner and were watched with every move. Somebody swept the muddy ground, somebody put a light fixture up, somebody brought us water, a table and a few chairs, so all can sit down while watching us.....The eyes were kind the smiles were warm and curious. Lots of chatter, but the words were not all understood and it didn't really matter........ We had a good night sleep. This was, so far, the poorest people in Mexico we stayed with and when we offered them money the next morning they refused to take it....... ..
