Out of the bubble......... One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.-- Henry Miller

4/24/09

The 15^th day of the trek – we got up too early.  Our hosts didn’t get up and we had to wait around in the cold for breakfast. Not an easy situation: The lodge are private homes, so we are basically staying in somebody’s house and when they have little babies and kids (most of them do), I don’t feel like I can keep asking them to serve us, but we are also dependent on them for food and shelter.

Anyways, waiting in the cold (there is no heat in the rooms…….only the kitchen and sometimes the eating area) for an hour was no fun. I understand now, that it is not a good idea to get up early – the natives here don’t get up, until the sun is in a place to make a difference in temperature. In this thin air, it is like on the moon. Shade is freezing and the sun is blasting hot and if there isn’t any wind, you are bound to wanna get rid of your clothes, that is how hot it gets up here. The wind has a real bite to it though.

The trek to Gokyo was beautiful – every step provided a new angle of the view of the snow caped Mts.

We found a real good lodge – simple and with a sweet Ama (Mama in Nepali)). We got the rooms for free, but the food was expensive (in comparison to the lower areas – understandably, since all of the food has to be carried up here – nothing grows in this altitude and we do need our potatoes…..). Locals say business has been slow – few travelers, so the competition is strong and we scored with this lovely place. We have a room with lake view and in the afternoon the sun warms it up through the window. The walls are thin, so it cools up during the night quite a bit, but at least I can put my PJs on without getting frost bites on my bum…….There is mint and ginger tea too.

It’s so beautiful around here, it brings tears to my eyes……………..

We are planning to stay here for 3 nights which gives us two full days to do day hikes to climb up to Gokyo Ri at 5400m (which is close to 18000f) and hike out  closer to the glaciers along the glacier river.

A bit later:

Been feeling awfully lonely…………..it doesn’t help that I have a head ache and feeling nausea. Now I don’t know if hormones are playing a trick on me again or I am feeling the altitude?! Went for a little hike, watched a woman puke across at the other lodge and laid down to feel sorry for myself.