I've
heard of time-warps, sometimes believing I had passed through one
when I see my moustache in some reflective surface. I think the 70's
are alive and well until reality makes a rare appearance in my mind.
I've heard of worm holes as well, those cosmological oddities that
link vast areas of time and space. Sort of like a moustache as well,
spanning generations, nationalities, and often, gender. I never would
have thought either time-warps and worm holes could have existed in
Vietnam, or more specifically, Mui Ne.
They
must exist though as it's a Russian revolution here, where the
Ruskies are taking over the holiday resorts of their communist
comrades. Questions were asked in Nha Trang about the overwhelming
presence of signs in Cyrillic. Answers were found in Mui Ne where
every non-Vietnamese was Russian. Drinking Black Russians every day
only drove the point further home about Mui Ne being an Indochine
Moscow. The point was hand delivered and signed for at the front door
when we were constantly being addressed in Russian before English.
Having
never been to Russia, it's difficult to comment on the 'normality' of
the Russians we saw travelling. Their fashion sense could be called
80's disco tarted up to look semi formal, straining the eye sight
taking in each outfit like staring at the sun. Attempts to blend in
make the men look like they've raided Tutankhamen's wardrobe, and
women prove the need to normally wear make up like a theatre mask.
Most of the womens clothes are missing about a metre of material,
thoughtfully making the most of natures limited resources.
The
raping of resources happens in restaurants where a lifestyle of
nutritional shortcomings are overcome with every meal. Four meals per
sitting is the average order, with a table of four taking the title
at a BrauHaus with 14 meals between them. Waiters were combining
plates just to fit them on the table, making sure there was plenty of
space for the half litre steins of lager that was washing everything
down. More food was left untouched than what Uma and I would eat in a
week. Had they wanted a doggy bad for the eight untouched plates,
they would have needed a complimentary suitcase. We were unable to
find out the real reason why the local crops and creatures were
demolished when no non-American could possibly eat so much. Super
sizing may be a relatively new fad but their girths would frequently
prove otherwise.
To
escape the gaudy clothes and harsh sounding syllables that could
possibly be quite friendly in intent, we hired scooters twice more
during our 10 day stay. Sand dunes don't sound that exciting as a
tourist destination, but we chose to visit them for more than just
the chance to fill the camera with sand. A 20km ride along the
opposite coast line to our previous ride was worth it in itself.
Plus, the bottles of vodka and Kahlua I had brought to play barman
myself were not lasting as long as I had hoped, so I had to leave the
poolside before whole Vietnamese families became dependant on my
alcohol expenditure.
The
red sand dunes were first, where the touts found us before we figured
out we'd arrived. Sand surfing salesman nearly crash tackled our
scooter as we slowed down to take stock of our surroundings. Rubber
mats offer the ride of your life if the most exciting thing you've
ever done was computer generated. The slopes weren't steep enough to
offer much speed, but were far too sharp an incline to want to scale
again for another slow second or two feeling how well rubber mats can
grip sand. Seeing some other sucker wish sand surfing was a Wii game
saved us from missing a nice sunset while trying to find a sand dune
steep enough to want to ride.
Finding
the white sand dunes proved to be far more difficult thanks the
Vietnamese hatred of helpful signs. Luckily they laid near a
beautiful lotus filled lake and choosing to head down an unmarked and
unmade road in the rough direction of our destination proved to be a
rare right choice. There was a big sign pointing to the White Sand
Dunes car park like that was far more important and confirmed at the
last possible moment that you had uncovered a well concealed secret.
There
was enough touts and lazy youths lounging around to believe that any
sort of business sense might have impelled one of them to point
suckers in the direction of the white sand dunes location. Nah, and
as just reward for actually making it there, not only did they not
hassle you, they hardly served you when they had too. I guess no one
tips a tout as that's often accounted for in their inflated foreigner
price. Surf mats were strewn around like they were too tired to ride
themselves, and few tourists troubled the tranquillity.
The
dunes themselves were exactly what you think of when you think of
piles of sand. The top layer was animated to exfoliate by a strong
wind that Uma wasn't for once, responsible for. The white sands
contrasted nicely with a blue sky, and the green lily pads that were
punctuated by lots of large pink lotuses. Had such variation broken
the monotony and desolation of the Mongolian Steppes I would have
drawn a comparison.
The
next day I wish I had drawn a map instead. We had sought out the
sleeping Buddha of Takou Mountain on our first trip and settled
instead for a rather unspectacular lighthouse. A polite and usually
helpful travel agent had drawn us a map, finely detailing the route
to the lighthouse that wasn't going to help us find anything other
than more frustration. “Oh, you want to go to sleeping Buddha?
Well, just go further that way'', she gestured with a wave that could
have meant flying there was the only option.
Riding
a few kilometres beyond what the Lonely Planet had stated the
distance was in its precisely vague way, we were about to give up
when the entrance appeared out of nowhere. Super stoked we had
actually found something we were looking for, we splashed out on the
deluxe package consisting of taxi, cable car and entrance fee; $3.
The cable car lost out to VinPearl Land in length but scored points
for better scenery as it scaled the side of the mountain.
To
compensate for the humiliation of having a profoundly shorter cable
car, a 49 metre reclining Buddha had been built 2 metres longer than
the previous biggest one located in Wat Po in Bangkok. Instead of
aiming for one-upmanship, a more solemn space could have been made if
they invested some money in garbage disposal. The sanctity of the
place was somewhat spoiled by large mounds of half burnt rubbish
littering the site. Good thing the Buddha was sleeping and largely
unaware of what little minded people were doing to his sacred space.
The
ride back made me regret not knowing the name of the patron saint of
road accidents. Thick clouds brought down the shades of night like
God was scheming deviously behind them. Lights were constantly
flashing out of nowhere, far brighter than the reflected candle light
our scooter feebly put forth. All manner of bugs were using my
eyeballs for target practice and car horns became an audible version
of a bull-bar. Never do the bigger vehicles offer any sign of
gratitude for yielding all but the very edge of the shoulder to them.
Thanks enough is simply being allowed to live; something I was far
more grateful for after finally making it home that night.