Waking
to the view of Halong Bay's karst mountains required repeated pinches
to ensure I wasn't still dreaming. Finding out the switch for the air
conditioner was just outside the door made me realise I'm always
dreaming. The Belgium couple had endured the company of a generator
all night but I felt no guilt as darkness and heat had required no
power source.
We
were roused at 730am for breakfast without any explanation why
another day had to start so early. If such a view was not worthy of a
lie in, I'll never know what is. We were the last ones to breakfast
as showing up on time would have been too much of a shock to people
also struggling to understand why a relaxing day had begun with the
crack of a whip. Looking around at the bleary eyes meant that no one
had requested such an early start.
Luckily
we were free to relax and doze on the top deck as the junk cruised
quietly amongst topography less out of place in Middle Earth. The sea
continually ate away at the bottom of the limestone pillars and caves
lead through to untouched inlets of mystery and wonder. With the
volume of traffic, it wouldn't have been surprising if the entire
area was a graveyard of human garbage, but the waters remained
largely unspoiled. Even bird life was abundant as egrets fished at
the waters edge while birds of prey circled above.
With
sheer faces of solid rock, it was amazing to see the extent of fauna
each outcrop contained. Somehow life had not only managed to take a
precarious foot hold in adverse conditions, it had thoroughly
prospered. The world around us was a two tone 'licorice all-sorts'
with green seas, the grey of the rock bottom beyond the limits of
even the most tenacious plants, the green tops where foliage had
found root and the grey skies above still refusing to break.
Overcast
skies meant savings on sunscreen and made the day's only activity
much more bearable. It was a 20km bike ride on flat roads to a
village on Cat Ba island. That was beyond the abilities of some, and
after seeing the condition of the bikes, I thought it would be beyond
the abilities of most. Uma's foot still gave her grief, paling into
comparison with what the hard seats did to your ass.
Living
life as a tourist attraction must be unusual with a the constant
procession of gawking foreigners photographing you as you take a piss
on your neighbours fence. Tour operators apparently pay for the
privilege of pedalling through town and a cold beer would never be
turned down upon arrival no matter what the price. Some money must
filter through as the abundance of food crops didn't explain how the
village could afford a radio tower, modern housing and other luxuries
of the 21st century. Had the ride itself not been so
pleasant, I would have complained that the once mud brick village was
just like most towns I had passed through in Vietnam, without the
traffic.
There
was little to complain about during the whole three days and our next
stop on the cruise epitomised that. A 100 metre stretch of sand
projected about 20 metres out from a huge vertical cliff face that
towered above. A foam jetty floated out a further 50 metres meaning
that nothing polluted the warm clear waters that lapped against the
beach. The jetty promised much and delivered little as there was more
gaps than boards and the movement inherent in its design brought on a
epidemic of motion sickness.
That
was quickly forgotten when we discovered that of the handful of
bungalows, we had scored the penthouse. Furthest from the jetty and
jutting out over the water, our pine wood palace had a bed as wide as
it was long and a view that made the mornings dream view seem dreary
and dull. Guilt was finally felt when we realised we were the only
ones from our group that was staying on the island. The Belgium
couple were not given a choice with their accommodation and were
staying in a hotel in Cat Ba Town, while an American couple were
joining them even though they had paid $40 more for another night on
a boat.
Once
everyone else departed with our guilty feelings, we went kayaking
with the same degree of application and success as the previous day.
Smaller beaches dotted the surrounding karsts, yet only one was close
enough for us to reach seeing as individual effort seemed to cancel
out the endeavours of the other. The romantic castaway connotations
were somewhat lessened by seeing that such coves gave rubbish a place
to land where cliff faces offered none.
For
the remainder of the afternoon, I contemplated my contribution to
human impact in the area over a few red wines from my balcony. My
responsibility seemed to lessen in direct correlation with the wine
bottle till I felt that witnessing the natural wonder and beauty was
the best thing that I could possibly do for the place. Had another
bottle been available I would have been able to convince myself that
the area had spent eons perfecting itself in preparation for my
presence.
Thankfully,
I had only brought one bottle from Hanoi as an even earlier breakfast
the next morning would have required some form of time travel to see
us make it there on schedule. Eating before any part of your body is
functioning other than morning glory is never a good idea. Even less
so when we were taken out to rejoin our group on a semi submerged
raft of prayers.
That
short trip was followed by another short bus ride to the other side
of the island, and from there, a last cruise back to Halong City. The
clouds finally cleared and added further gloss to the trip by
demonstrating that sunlight had little bearing on the beauty of the
environment. It was absolutely amazing whether it was bathed in
sunlight or darkened by dull skies.
As
the icing on an already delectable cake, the last leg of the trip
justified the early rises. The bus driver back to Hanoi must have
thought tourists were expendable as he drove like he wanted to make
sure we were too shit scared to ever come back for more. Having spent
most of the trip sleep deprived, it was a blessing to wake up to the
same smiling hotel receptionist and not a team of doctors.