The southern coastal area from Albany to Pemberton is the most pleasant place we have seen in Western Australia. It is an area of ancient karri forests, scenic bays, lushly wooded roads, colorful parrots, vineyards and orchards. Ironically, it is also the least interesting place we have been, an Australian Lake Woebegon where everything is "fine" but not much happens.
The highlight of the "Tall Timbers," as the area is known (for lack of a better name?) is the Tree Top Walk, 600 meters along a swaying latticework of steel suspended 100 feet in the canopy of tingle trees, one of the 700 species of eucalyptus. It would be nice to say you get a "bird's-eye" view but, strangely, there were no birds. Not a one! Even from the ground-level boardwalk through the Valley of the Ancients we couldn't find a bird. Go figure.
The Southern Ocean (Is there really such a body of water?) is a hostile place, understandable when you realize that the next landmass is Antarctica. Even Peaceful Bay was storm-tossed. I don't want to think what Windy Point would look like. The weather changed every couple of minutes; sun, clouds, rain, hot and cold. And after the rain the forest smelled like a giant cough lozenge. The only constant was the wind. And while it surely kept the flies and mossies at bay, it played hell with driving. I actually turned on my wipers intentionally for the first time.
The news has reported two shark attacks this week. A diver and a surfer were killed in separate incidents, presumably by different great white sharks, in the Perth area. Current thinking is they were mistaken for seals. Ouch!
Sharks and kookaburras aren't the only animals behaving badly. We were awakened this morning by the sound of air cannons to frighten off the black cockatoos that raid the fruit trees around Manjinup. We had expected the 30 or so mountain bikers who were sharing the Fonty's Pool campground to wake us but they were worn out from their 100+ km ride yesterday and were preparing for another this morning.
