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On the Road "The purpose of life lies at the intersection of the heart's deepest desires, the mind's keenest talents, and the world's greatest needs."

Gallery: Georgia - Mountains

GEORGIA | Friday, 24 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: marschutka from Tbilisi to Kazbegi on the Georgian Military Highway, all-night Orthodox Palm Sunday service, Gergeti Holy Trinity Church
See all 45 photos >>
 


Welcome to the weirdest country on Earth

TURKMENISTAN | Friday, 24 Apr 2009 | Views [3715]

March 27: Urgench to Dashogus I crossed the border into Turkmenistan, “the North Korea of Central Asia” (according to Lonely Planet), and started the 5-day clock on my transit visa (yes, I had a few “24”-style tick-tocks in my head along the way, ... Read more >


"Sheep flock!"

UZBEKISTAN | Wednesday, 22 Apr 2009 | Views [930]

March 26: Chill in Urgench The third day in Urgench/Khorezm and my last full day in Uzbekistan was very chill and enjoyable, spent meandering through the bazaar (which is pleasantly familiar to those in Tajikistan and the rest of Central Asia) ... Read more >


World Water Day (almost) at the Aral Sea (almost)

UZBEKISTAN | Wednesday, 22 Apr 2009 | Views [4670] | Comments [2]

March 25: Moynaq From Urgench, we hired a car into the depths of Karakal-Pakstan, the autonomous region that some Uzbeks refer to as the “Wild Wild West” due to alleged banditry. Residents of Karakal-Pakstan are ethnically and linguistically ... Read more >


Gallery: Georgia - Tbilisi & Area

GEORGIA | Tuesday, 21 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Tbilisi, Davit Gareja, Sagarejo
See all 67 photos >>
 


Gallery: Azerbaijan - Mountains

AZERBAIJAN | Monday, 20 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Quba & Caucasus mountains
See all 30 photos >>
 


Gallery: Azerbaijan - Baku & area

AZERBAIJAN | Monday, 20 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: ferry across the Caspian Sea, Baku, Qobustan petroglyphs and mud volcanoes
See all 80 photos >>
 


Gallery: Turkmenistan

TURKMENISTAN | Monday, 20 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Darvaza Gas Crater, Ashgabat & Area (in all it's effed-up glory), drive out west to Turkmenbashi port
See all 63 photos >>
 


Road trippin' through the ages

UZBEKISTAN | Wednesday, 15 Apr 2009 | Views [1446]

March 23: Bukhara to Urgench We caught a ride out to Urgench, the capital of the Khorezm province, with a friend of a friend heading the same way. Western Uzbekistan is in stark contrast to the eastern urban centers, with the landscape dominated ... Read more >


My last holiday in the 'Stans

UZBEKISTAN | Sunday, 12 Apr 2009 | Views [2921]

March 21: Navruz I was pretty excited to be spending Navruz (the Muslim New Year) in Bukhara, the former jewel of the Islamic world! We started the day off by watching some traditional Uzbek music and dancing performed near the apartment (each ... Read more >


Central Asia's ultimate melting pot

UZBEKISTAN | Thursday, 9 Apr 2009 | Views [4065] | Comments [1]

March 18: Rainy Day Beats The drive to Bukhara was rainy and relatively uneventful. We met a friend of a friend upon arrival, who notably brought me a bouquet of field flowers to welcome me to the city (how sweet!). He also speaks Tajik, which ... Read more >


Gallery: Uzbekistan - West

UZBEKISTAN | Tuesday, 7 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Khiva, Urgench, Moynaq & Aral Sea
See all 50 photos >>
 


Gallery: Uzbekistan - Bukhara

UZBEKISTAN | Tuesday, 7 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Arc, carpet bazaar, Great Mosque, Kalon Minaret, Mir-i-Arab Medrassa, Lebi Khaus town pond, Jewish quarter, Navruz celebrations, Somoni Mausoleum, Baha-uddin Nankshbandi complex, Emir's summer palace, Chor Bakir complex, tolban wedding celebration
See all 150 photos >>
 


Gallery: Uzbekistan - Samarkand

UZBEKISTAN | Tuesday, 7 Apr 2009 | Photo Gallery

Includes: Gur Emir, Registan, Bibi Khanym mausoleum, Timur's mosque, Shakhi-Zinda necropolis, wine factory, Ulugbek Observatory, Al-Bukhari mosque and mausoleum
See all 97 photos >>
 


... and onto the Silk Road

UZBEKISTAN | Sunday, 5 Apr 2009 | Views [2848]

March 17: Samarkand 101 Farid’s friend is a bit concerned about my OVIR registration – apparently with the upcoming Navruz holiday, officials could just refuse to register me and subsequently deport me – so we’re rushing to Bukhara a little faster ... Read more >


Crossing the border...

UZBEKISTAN | Thursday, 2 Apr 2009 | Views [1634]

March 16: Dushanbe (Tajikistan) to Samarkand (Uzbekistan) I left Tajikistan, my home-away-from-home for the past 8 months, early this morning. As always before a big trip, I was up all night packing, re-packing, and running through mental check-... Read more >


Oh 'Central Asian Union' passport, wherefore art thou??

TAJIKISTAN | Wednesday, 1 Apr 2009 | Views [1156]

Patience is a virtue, and perhaps the most valuable one to possess when traveling in Central Asia & Area. After months of poring over online travel forums, maps, and guide books, I had more or less decided on my ideal tailor-made trip: backpacking ... Read more >


The List

TAJIKISTAN | Tuesday, 24 Mar 2009 | Views [876] | Comments [2]

For my fellow travelers - armchair or otherwise - interested in what I stuffed into my bag for a 4-month overlander ranging in climate from late-winter mountains to mid-summer deserts, here's my packing list... CLOTHES : raincoat, slush pants, ... Read more >


On the road, for real

UZBEKISTAN | Sunday, 22 Mar 2009 | Views [498]

I finished my internship with the Aga Khan Foundation at the end of February and spent the next couple of weeks begrudgingly sorting out some messy visas. I left Tajikistan on March 16th, walked across the border to Uzbekistan, and, despite the large ... Read more >


When you just don't know how to react...

TAJIKISTAN | Saturday, 14 Mar 2009 | Views [1267] | Comments [1]

It takes a lot to ruffle my feathers. I’ve trained myself not to outwardly react to most surprises in the name of cultural sensitivity. I’ve been told more than once that I should learn how to play Texas Hold ‘Em because I’ve got such a good poker face ... Read more >


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