So what's the best time to arrive in one of the world's most dangerous cities? 11.30pm? Probably not, but we like a challenge. Let's just hope the drug cartels got an early night.
Our taxi makes its way slowly through the inexplicable midnight traffic, past the numerous Mexican cop cars and to our hostel in the historic city centre.
It's after 1am and there are a few hippy types strumming on a guitar. The room keycard doesn't work so I end up climbing through the corridor window to let us in - we're on the fourth floor and I have no intention of running up and down the stairs all night.
The hostel is crap. There's no outside window for our room so it's all artificial light. The men's bathrooms are miles away, and the women's are even on the next floor down. We swap the next day for a hotel around the corner - it's cheaper and our room has a balcony over the street, a TV, and an ensuite bathroom.
Eventually we get round to a bit of sightseeing. There's a Mayan temple ruins nearby and while we're there, an American bum (for want of a better word) starts talking to us. He's clearly very well read and gives us a history lesson, he philosophizes with us for an hour or so. He's definitely one of the more interesting people we've met on this trip and I gladly give him $5 for his time.
That evening we reorganise our US itinerary by changing some flights around and then head out for dinner. We try an old traditional restaurant called Hosteria de Santo Domingo. There's lots of history about the place but the food is really only ok.
