travelling with laughter

Varanassi is also known as the city of Shiva and is one of the holiest places in India, Hindu pilgrims come from far and wide to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges and cremate their loved ones as it is seen as an auspicous place to die. Having your last breaths here or being cremated is seen as offering 'Moksha' - a liberation from the cycle of life and death.

Wandering down to the centre of Varanassi's being i found myself at the infamous ghats, huge historical buildings set beside the river, long strings of steps leading the way down to the river creating a local gathering area for a mulitude of reasons. Seen as a holy river many people go to bathe, clad in sarongs, makeshift speedos and saris. Actually seeing the river i can't see how it would cleanse you as it is absolutely filthy and well known for its unsanitory conditions. I later learned that the locals that swim in it oil themselves all over so that the water is repelled off there skin, as long as they keep there mouths closed and nostrils shut i think that they are okay and escape the millions of diseases swilling around in its murky depths.

Walking along we were approached by offers of boat rides, jewellery, hashish all of which we declined. Dogs doze on the pavement, litters of puppies too tired to play, cows mooching along and the odd goat or two. There is such an array of people, beggers, saddhus, children playing, locals chilling, touts, tourists and of course families of the recently deceased. Life and death revolves around the ghats, you can smell the cremation ghat before you can see it, i was glad that i had experienced it already in Nepal as here it is done on a larger scale, cremations taking place 24 hours a day all year long. Several levels are postioned on the waterfront representing the caste of the family, the higher up you are the more important you are. We saw a body being brought to its final resting place, at the start of the ritual the male of the family has his head and moustache shaved and dresses all in white, then the body was cleansed in the River Ganges before being placed and cremated on the pile of wood. I learned a lot watching and talking to the locals who were more than happy to give me all the information i could probably take in. The fabrics on the bodies determine the age and sex of the deceased, red - old lady and silver - old man etc. Also not all of the dead are cremated for example children and pregnant woman are thrown in the river itself with a weighted rock attached to them as they are seen as pure and don't need purification by the fire. The people who handle the dead i was quite sad to learn are actually the outcasts of society, i find this hard to understand, why are they outcasts and why is this the job they have been given when it is seen as sacred?

As well as the cremations so much is still happening all around, animals still prowl for food, people still work, begging is still prevelant and litter is everywhere. Yet amongst all of this hustle and bustle it retains a feeling of calmness and peace. The cycle of life continues. It has made me change my views on death, instead of seeing it as a morbid somber occasion i am understanding it as a part of life. Its not scary or to be afraid of just accepted.

Walking back through the side streets several small processions passed us, men carrying deceased on their shoulders chanting as they passed us by. It was quite a haunting sound really and really touched me. It did make me feel sad. Seeing so much of death though hasn't made me nonchalant about it, i don't think thats possible. What it does do is make you reflect. Reflect on loved ones i have loved and lost and for others that are experiencing death and inevitability of it.

So going down to the ghats later that evening to watch the 'ganga aarti ceremony' which is a light ceremony offering prayers to the setting sun to rise again the next day. I sat and listened to the bells chiming, prayers and singing and lit a candle sending my love and happiness to my family. A perfect way to end an all consuming spiritual day.