Good news; I have found my groove. It is in Granada. I took the bus down here from Madrid yesterday morning, and now we have had two beautiful days of sun and about 50 degrees farenheight... I'd guess.
The Moroccan influence is palpable here, in a great way. On the way to the hostel, you walk up narrow alleys on a hill past moroccan shops selling colorful things, and past Kebab shops selling falafel, and of course, kebab. The city is vibrant. No skeeve vibe so far, and best of all, the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains are right outside the rooftop terrace.
Compared to Madrid, where the tapas were delicious and many, Granada's tapas are huge here! (free with any canas, or small beer, comes a small bite of food, which is a tapa. It used to be served on top of the beer glass, to keep flies away, and hence called Tapas, or Topper.)
I could spend a weekend here easily, but I'm eager to keep moving.
Spain still has many cats.
I forgot to say, this morning I visited the Alhamra, an old moorish castle that has also been fortress, palace, etc. in its history. It is truly beautiful, with the most intricate carved walls and ceilings. Freezing cold mornings, hot afternoons, this place must be a little too much in summer I suspect. (I'm already sunburnt just a little from today.)