Sunday 20th
May – Saturday 26th May 2012
Venice to Opatija and Split
No problem getting to Venice itself, but huge problems finding our
hotel. They seem to think that putting the wrong address on the website isn’t a
drama. We came to learn that this
approach to tourists is pretty typical for the Venezois….they must get burnt
out with 14 million grubs like us each year and their tolerance has worn
thin. In the end we stumbled upon the
hotel, settled in, bussed to the airport and had 5 minutes for a café con leche
before raising our “TWO LOST SHEILAS” sign at the customs door from which Lark
and Ali emerged moments later. I
continue to be amazed at how achievable long-range planning is in Europe,
whether it’s collecting a Volvo in the English countryside, meeting up with
Deborah in the south of Spain, Caro & Albi in Lüscherz, and now Ali &
Lark in Venice.
Now we were down to one male and three females…we all quickly leapt
into tourist mode…dinners with Tassie friends Terry & Kerryn, vaporetto
rides around endless canals, cruising around both Murano & colourful Burano,
bucket-loads of churches and, for me, the highpoint…Vivaldi’s 4 Seasons,
performed by a famous local ensemble, iVenezi…we had front row centre seats so
we heard every note emerge, and felt the sweat fly, as the team worked its way
through his brilliant oeuvre (as we
say…). What a delight! If you can get to Venice sooner rather than later
– do so! The tourist interface is
collapsing into hostility as the waiters, porters, attendants etc were already
off-hand, skitchy and terse – and it’s only May! What will it be like in September, 10 million
tourists later?
All too quickly we packed up the car and headed along the coastal
route for Slovenia on our way to Croatia.
Not knowing what to expect, but being cautious given the fact that
Croatia was beaten up, blasted and trampled by the Serbs only 20 years ago, we
were surprised at how seamless and civilized it was to pass through borders and
how little obvious damage remained. We arrived
at our little pension in Opatjia - no, overlooking Opatija and the whole
Dalmatian Coast - in the late afternoon!
Congrats to Lark for locking in such great accommodation! Panoramic views over coastlines once
dominated by the Greeks, then the Romans, and where for hundreds of years
sailed the most powerful navy in the world – the Venetians! We strolled, slowly and as a group (not!)
down to a little resto on the water’s edge for dinner, completely ignoring the
Lord Byron – a rather seedy, grizzly strip club where Jim had wanted to stop
off – was it to get away from the three females..…for a few hours…he was
quickly coming to learn that his role on this voyage of adventure was not to be
leader, guide, shepherd and harem-manager, but rather driver, cook and
shop-window loiterer. How many times
would he be forced over coming weeks to stand outside clothes shops waiting
while three avid bargain hunters scoured the racks for stellar deals. He’d thought this trip was about history and
cultural connection but no, it was more about coral pink chemises and scarves
to further weigh down already bulging wardrobes! While we’re on the subject…why is it that
beside every clothes shop there’s a bra and panty shop? Poor Jim was looked at
sideways, sneered at and laughed at as he waited quite innocently in front of
windows full of scantily clad models, much like the pervert at the school-yard
gate…oh, life is so unfair! The three
ladies on the other hand noticed that near many ATM’s there’s a poor person
begging asking for money. A visit to the
Roman arena in Pula – one of only 6 remaining today as a full, but pretty
battle weary, ellipse - was a highlight.
Then the pressure was on to journey down to Split where we would
meet “the mob” and embark on our cruise to Dubrovnik. Split is, like most other European cities, an
ugly sprawl oozing out around a history filled, “old town”…or more accurately,
three or more layers of “old town” each superimposed on the rubble of conquered
or long-extinguished predecessors. In
this case the showpiece was Diocletian’s summer palace, upon the remnants of
which, you guessed it, the Catholics had erected their magnificent
cathedral. Split, like so much of Croatia
as we came to learn, bustles with youthful vigour and sophistication. If Europe’s doing it tough at the moment,
someone better let the next generation of Croats know. No wonder they’re in the EU next year, ‘cos
they’re out spending and having a good time, and looking very smart while
they’re at it! Jim got a neck injury from turning his head so often. The bars and resto’s are full to
overflowing. Suffice to say our meeting
up with the rest of the aussie contingent descended rapidly into wine and
seafood fuelled hilarity as our quaint accent wafted out across the 1000 year
old square where we were eating, al fresco…
