friendly assistants at cafes, the hotel Europa, the Prado, fountains, and jamon iberico make Madrid a city to love. And how to describe the Prado With its penchant for huge works of art? It even has an early version of the Mona Lisa done by Leonardo's star pupil Sali, that is virtually identical the original, but better restored with a delightful background of blue mountains--- prettier and more glowing than the original.