Up early Wednesday -- today was to be my introduction to white water kayaking and I was looking forward to it! Not originally on my itinerary, Ispaynac was one of the highlights of my jouney through France. I had initially planned on driving from Carsac to Lyon in one long day, and spending a significant amount of time in Lyon but did some research and had second thoughts, so decided to take my time crossing the middle of France and see something along the way -- glad I did! (Again, being open to the unexpected.)
In my research I came across the Gorges du Tarn, described as a picturesque network of narrow plunging canyons carved out by the Tarm River over the centuries, characterized by steep cliffs slicing through sparkling blue-green water and deep blue skies overhead. It lived up to the hype -- and more!
Renting a kayak was the hardest part -- that and the drive along single track roads clinging to the sides of nearly vertical rock walled cliffs. Had to call four outfitters before finding one open that day and offering the route I wanted to follow. Wednesday is apparently not a busy day and even though I got up early I had a late start due to technical difficulties (had to get the names and numbers of the outfitters from the tourist office -- they were closed on Monday when I arrived and Tuesday morning, someone couldn't get the office door key to work, so they all sat around outside, smoking and waiting for some mysterious person to bring them a duplicate key that was "sure to work"). French efficiency at it's best!
Finally was on my way around eleven, got to the launch spot, had my introductory kayaking lesson (here's a paddle, there's a kayak, get in and I'll push you into the middle of the river -- all in two minutes and all in French -- yahoo!!)
So there I was in the middle of the river trying to figure out which end of the paddle was "up" when I noticed I was rapidly heading straight for the first series of rapids -- got wet, hit some bumps (rocks) and didn't always have my shoulders facing downstream -- why should I worry if my back was to where I was going. Somehow made it through safely and got coordinated only to hit the next section of rapids -- this was getting to be fun!!
The views were amazing -- grey and white rock cliffs rising hundreds of feet straight-up interspersed with green pine trees and blue skies filled with big white puffy clouds. After the first few series of rapids the river "chilled-out" and I was left to just let the current carry me lazily forward -- at least until the next set of rapids.
Birds singing, butterflies flying all around -- often landing on the kayak to watch me (or for a rest), fish swimming below me in the clear waters, warm sun -- peaceful, truely being in nature away from it all! Pulled over to gravel beaches and stopped a number of times just to sit back and enjoy the views and the sun. If I ever make it back to France, this will be one of the places I will be sure to revisit.
