Monday was moving day -- my one month stay in the 6th Arrondisement (SE Paris) was up and it was off to the new place on the other side of Paris (NW Paris). The new apartment is very different -- the first one was very traditional Parisian (appearance and furnishings) -- the new one is more modern and not so quaint -- although much quieter -- the street noise was always there in the other and here it's like you're in the countryside with birds singing outside the windows -- it's also higher up (10th floor) so there are fantastic views of the Paris skyline.
Cindy helped me move -- we splurged and took a taxi which made it a lot simpler. Spent the late afternoon and evening leisurely walking the streets in the area exploring the neighborhood. In the first neighborhood, everything stayed open until eight or nine in the evening with restaurants and the mini-markets staying open well after midnight. In the new neighborhood, the shops are closed by five or six and the restaurants are typically open from 11:00am until 4:00pm when they close for two hours, reopening around 6:00ish and staying open until ten to eleven in the evening -- places serving alcohol are open until midnight or whenever the crowds leave.
Tuesday we were off to see the Basilique du Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart Church) which easily rivals the Eiffel Tower for premier skyline landmark status -- located on one of the few hills in Paris and towering over the city -- in the day time you can't miss it on the skyline and at night they light it up, and against the black sky -- it's absolutely awesome!
Construction began in 1875 following the end of a conflict with Prussia and continued through a number of what might be called "French Civil Wars", not being finished until 1919. To get to the Basilica, you start by walking up a steep street (lined with souvenir shops) -- the street curves away from the Basilica leaving you to ascend another steep set of steps directly in front to a plaza dominatd by three large fountains -- then it's off to the side and up either another set of stairs or a steep asphalt path which brings you to the last set of stairs -- probably one hundred fifty to eighty steps in all once you leave the street -- then you're at a plaza directly in front of the structure with a gorgeous view of Paris in front of you and the Basilica towering behind you. Two lovely aged bronze statues flank the entrance and the lower eves are loaded with gargoyle downspouts.
At the top of the hill, next to the Basilica, off to the side tucked away down a narrow alley is the small "village" of Montmartre -- a "throw-back" to the early 1800's -- an open square surrounded by two to three story buildings from that period housing souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants.
The entire square is just teeming with artists displaying their work -- some touristy but most of excellent quality and prices to match. In addition, along the alley and in the square are at least fifty sketch artists who will do your portrait in pencil or pen/ink for five euros ($10-12) -- half of them wearing berets and all of them looking the part of an artist -- from what we saw, their sketches were a bargain!
From here it was back down the hill, onto the Metro and, keeping in a religious theme, revisiting the gothic Eglise St Eustache for a couple hours. Then back to the apartment for dinner and off to bed early -- Wednesday was going to be a 5:00am rising.
ADDED NOTES:
1) The tower in the photo was in a small park off to the side of Sacre Coeur -- two elderly men wearing berets and sports coats were sitting by themselves under a tree at a small table playing chess -- iconic French postcard scene -- if I hadn't felt like I'd be intruding into their peacefulness, would've taken their photo.
2) Sacre Coeur was supposedly built on the site where St Denis was beheaded in the 3rd century -- the tale claims that after his beheading, he promptly picked-up his head, tucked it under his arm and walked ten kilometers across Paris preaching repentance until he fell to the ground.
