Spirits Lost and Found In New Zealand

New Zealand was first inhabited by the tough and spirited Polynesian migrants now known as the native Maori; it was plundered and mapped by bold and adventurous seafarers; and it was then settled by the industrious and sports-loving British. Today it still beckons those with adventurous hearts, those who find magic in the crinkle-crackle of a forest floor beneath the feet and perceive secrets whispered as sand slides between the toes. New Zealand seduces those who enjoy sampling the spirit of a Sauvignon Blanc with a stone-fruit nose; those with an addiction to adrenaline, athletic endeavors, and alternative footwear (namely jandals or barefoot).

From Ahipara, Ninety Mile Beach protrudes from the top of New Zealand’s North Island like an arm extended overhead with two fingers splayed in a gesture of peace. Whether one drives up the beach in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, trusts the transport of a tour bus via the same route, or otherwise travels north on Highway 1, the trip to Cape Reinga is a fiesta for the eyes.

The beach track beguiles passengers with endless ocean views. It also beleaguers drivers with the real probability of getting stuck in the sand. The drive up Highway 1, the more practical and conventional route, certainly lacks the allure of the ocean, but it compensates with variety. Careen around a tight turn and the trees part to reveal a panoramic view that combines the opulent forest with incredible sand dunes layered behind and the voluminous, azure ocean beyond.

Cape Reinga lies where the road ends and the ocean begins. Here the currents of the Tasman Sea meet those of the Pacific Ocean. At the northernmost point of the Cape is a lone and weather-worn, gnarled Pohutukawa tree. It overlooks the spectacular swirl of currents below and stands as if on guard, protecting the land above. Legend claims that this tree is the portal to the Maori ancestral land -- where the spirits of deceased Maori are ushered home. Exposed and vulnerable to the full range of heat and storms, wind and water, salt and sand, the stalwart tree stands in testament to strength and character, like a proud Maori warrior. When combined with 320 degrees of glittering ocean views, it is apparent why the Maori believe there is magic in this place. Estimated to be over 800 years old, the tree provides a sanctuary for old souls and solace for those left behind. Restoring balance, the British-built picturesque lighthouse welcomes newcomers to the island in safety and elicits hope for the future.

In New Zealand, nature’s sorcery gives abundantly -- plentiful seafood, unique honey, mouth-watering goat cheese, and a growing, glorious wine industry. After steeping in Maori culture, instead of sipping tea with the Brits, end the day with a wine tasting. In Kaitaia, visit Okahu Estate Vineyard and paint the palate white, red, and rosé and raise a glass to Kiwi ingenuity and the friendliest people on the planet. Cheers!