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The drinking town with a sailing problem.

AUSTRALIA | Saturday, 6 September 2008 | Views [1187]

Aussie & Irish building up for a big night at the parrothead festival.

Aussie & Irish building up for a big night at the parrothead festival.

At the premature end to my first nights sleep in Airlie Beach's Bush Village backpackers, I was awoken by a guy looking for a drinking partner, duties to start immediately. I hadn't celebrated my arrival in Airlie so enthusiastically that I would still be sleeping in the afternoon, a decent time to start drinking. It was 9am and this Aussie wino was looking for his Irish drinking buddie. I thought that to be quite an unusual endeavour, but it seemed such activities were almost the norm in this dorm.


This same Irish guy had spent a previous night sleeping in some one elses room by mistake, until they came in to query his intentions in a rather irate manner. Not being Goldilocks, or in anyway welcome in their life, they sent him on his way. His way ended up being with a police escort. He did have just cause to be celebrating enthusiastically after his first week of employment in two months. Not cause enough to keep celebrating through the next four days of the following working week.


The aussie guy had been kicked out for being too pissed too often, and expressing that state in a violent manner towards a defenceless door. He was snorting a crushed up zanex tablet when I first arrived, but soon got the impression he was no more welcomed by the guests as he was by the staff. Telling some one to fuck off repeatedly will often give them that impression, irrespective of how constantly smashed they were.


The bus driving job I wanted before seeing the unstable nature of my would-be-customers, was taken by another Aussie guy in my dorm. Any drug was his drug of choice. Beers in the morning may not have been kosher to him, but a big trumpet of a joint was appropriate for any time of the day. He was in Airlie solely to party and my bank balance was thankful that I chose to join him only once in the eleven days I stayed there.


It was the parrot-head festival, and I spent at least three hours there without figuring out what that meant. It was supposed to be a reggae street party, but the most rastafarian element to proceedings was the joint we had smoked before going. The whole thing was full of old rednecks bopping away to 80's rock while drinking bundy. Not really my scene, and neither was 'Beaches', the backpackers pub where I ended up. 33 seems at least ten years too old to be getting smashed with teenage Swedish nymphets only looking to save money by having some sucker buy their drinks for them.


On the slow stagger home along the bicentennial board walk, I came to realise a few truths about Airlie. It's a great place to party. Shame I'm not interested now, and never really was, in partying purely for the sake of being able to do so. It's a great place to do anything involving a boat. My incapacitating seasickness has subsided over the years to an infrequent need for food regurgitation. Having to work in that state seemed to justify its low ranking on the priority scale. Airlie is also a great place to get a job if you are A/ Not Australian because a reputation precedes us that we drink far too much and would prefer the dole to hard work (quite an accurate assumption on the whole), B/ An attractive female because they are stated to be most employers preference! C/ Able to control your body functions while on a boat, and D/ Prepared to party even while you work because everyone else is partying.


Needless to say, that one full blooded attempt to assimilate into Airlie life showed me that my best interests lay else where. It was hard to consider leaving, and I managed to put off thinking about it for quite a few days. Once my diminishing bank balance started sounding alarms at every eftpos transaction I knew decisions needed to be made. I couldn't consider going back down south as I was already adjusted to wearing shorts and singlets during the day. The night time still required a jumper and pants, but not thermals.


After a few more days of contemplation, I decided that the abundant vegetable farms in Bowen offered the best opportunity to avoid total destitution. I rang the first backpackers hostel and discovered the unfortunate news that the season wouldn't get going for another few weeks due to the cold. I didn't have a few weeks to wait, and I didn't have a plan B. The duration of procrastination was reducing rapidly, but I still took half a day to decide to call another backpackers in Bowen to see if they had work.


They did have a position for me in a tomato packing shed. But they didn't have a bed for me. So I spent the first two nights on a mattress thrown in the corner of a dorm. Even though it is only an hour north of Airlie beach, even the nights here are warm enough for minimal clothing. And this is the first time I have gone to sleep in winter with a fan on me.

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