The Vavilov anchored in Charlotte Bay, just offshore from the actual Antarctic Peninsula. While we were waiting for the Zodiacs, Noah spotted an immature emperor penguin, very rare at this latitude, as far south as we will get, 64o 30’ S. Despite the length of the trip and the miles traveled, surprisingly little time is spent on Antarctica proper, and that only on the Antarctic Peninsula. But is is our Seventh Continent!
The landing site at Portal Point on actual Antarctic soil – ‘er, rock – is large enough only for two Zodiacs at a time and we were allowed on shore for only a short while. We spent our time just sitting on the snow contemplating all we have experienced while a gentoo penguin sat on its egg and a pair of skuas mated nearby. On a crowded ship like the Vavilov, monents like this are to be treasured. Back in the Zodiac we wended our way among the icebergs until the captain reported that the kattabatic wind was blowing down from the glaciers and we should return to the ship. By the time Eva tied us up at the gangway we were cold, wet and stiff and making the jump from a bouncing Zodiac was an adventure.
It was hard to believe that this afternoon was the same day as the morning. Orne Harbor in the Gerlache Strait was glassy smooth, not a breathe of wind was stirring. The ice, sculptured by the sea, was reflected in the water as we cruised aimlessly about. Noah has an uncanny instinct for critters and it was our Zodiac that spotted the enormous leopard seal, our first. The magical cruise lasted until 7:15, returning not because of darkness, only to be in time for dinner.
