In the pre-dawn rain, after an all-night bus trip from Vilnius, the McDonalds at the Gdansk station was a welcome sight. A cup of hot coffee, an Egg McMuffin and a warm, dry place to wait were just the ticket until we could go to our hotel. We spent most of our first day in Poland catching up on lost sleep and watching Fred and Ginger dance in their early movies. Sometimes we are not very adventurous toursits, after all.
If the history of Poland is difficult to understand, just think about Gdansk. Like Poland it has been independent, Russian, Austro-Hungarian, German, Nazi, Soviet and, finally, independent. In fact, Lech Walesa, the first president of Poland, called for the strike that lead to independence at the ship yards of Gdansk. But Gdansk hasn't always been called Gdansk; sometimes it was known as Danzig. It took a vote to agree that the city would be known as Gdansk before 1308 and after 1945 and as Danzig between 1308 and 1945.
Gdansk was razed at the end of the War
To compilcate matters, the city was razed at the end of WW II. Most of what you see today is an authentic re-construction of the medieval city, by whichever name. The old town is a marvel of Dutch-inspired architecture, cobbled streets and churches, accompanied by the carillon from Town Hall. Poles are mostly devout Catholics and church steeples tower above the town. Shame on any saint without a cathedral named after him in Gdansk. The bustling harborside has been in business for a millennium, reaching its peak during the days when Gdansk - or was it Danzig? - was an important center in the Hanseatic League.
Dutch influenced buildings
This is a great time to visit Gdansk, not just because it's the fall "shoulder season." Although it's just across the Baltic from Copenhagen, Gdansk hasn't yet been "discovered." It isn't on the tourist routes like Tallinn. Poland hasn't adopted the euro so the prices are more than reasonable. Museums have low admission prices and many are free on Tuesdays. And while you can pay a king's ransom for a 5-star hotel in one of the converted medieval warehouses, there are many great bargains. Ours is just a short walk from the Old City and costs $55.
There is always something to see. Fisherman line the wharf, kids chase pigeons in the plazas. Just watching people enjoying a coffee break is interesting. We wandered by a couple of soggy Sunday weddings and even stumbled into a movie shooting - an art about a woman painter and a motorcycle gang, but maybe something got lost in translation. Not everyone speaks English but they can usually find someone who does, especially when food is involved. If not we resort to German of a sort. Or just point and smile.
Bikers...
And Brides
