Pasko wouldn't let me out of his sight once he knew we were looking for an apartment. He followed me to each of the other places we were considering, lowering his price at each stop. The one Luci from Dubrovnik arranged didn't cut it - no internet or TV - so Connie went one way and I the other looking for a place. Pasko's turned out to be a better deal than the one Connie found, larger and cheaper after his fire sale rates.
We are using Split as a place to hang out, relax and give me a chance to get over this #@&%ing cold. Most travelers would feel they were wasting their holiday just sitting around, watching TV and reading. But this isn't exactly a holiday for us and it's OK to take some down time. Besides, we can't return to the EU until January which makes Split a comfortable and inexpensive place to rest.
The Greeks harvested olives and grapes on Hvar Island 24 centuries ago. Nowadays at the height of the tourist season, when ferries run hourly, 30,000 people make the trip from Split to Hvar every day for the great beaches and shopping. But today only one slow car ferry is running and we were the only tourists headed for Stari Grad. The museums are closed, of course, but wandering the narrow streets and watching the people is always fun.
Back in Split Diocletian's Palace and the old town are a short walk from our flat. Diocletian, a Roman emperor known for his persecution of early Christians, built the palace, actually a fortress, as his retirement home. Ironically, his mausoleum is now a Catholic cathedral. We stumbled upon a Christmas play with groups of festively dressed young girls ready to climb on stage and perform. Christmas trees are for sale near the harbor and I heard my first holiday song, "White Christmas," in Croatian, of course.
