The Roman bath and spa in Bath was expensive and crowded with tour
groups. The audio guide wasn’t
nearly as good as the one at the castle, I have seen nicer baths in Turkey and Israel,
and I was getting bored. Then I
discovered a series of comments by Bill Bryson on the audio.
Everyone
who enjoys travel and has a sense of humor should read Bill Bryson, the most
irreverent and humorous travel writer I have read. His book on England, Notes
From a Small Island, will keep you in stitches. Some of his comments on the baths complimented the
“official” story. Others were
totally Bryson. The temple was
dedicated to the Roman goddess Minerva and a sculpture of her head is on
display. Bryson said he likes the
male heads but the females scare him and Minerva isn’t someone he would like to
meet. He wonders how a
civilization that could develop aquaducts, fountains, architecture, and war
machines could have religious beliefs that were so “stupid.” When visitors to the bath wanted
special favors from Minerva they would write their requests on a sheet of lead,
fold it up and throw it into the pool.
Several have been recovered and translated. Bryson was amazed by the petty vindictiveness of the requests. One asked that the person who stole his
gloves have his eyes poked out at the temple.
Maybe
it was because the Chinese tour groups left and the crowd thinned. Maybe it was because I was learning
something. But I think that Bill
Bryson is the reason I enjoyed the Roman baths of Bath.