I woke up this morning and considered how ingenious the
Japanese were in developing heated toilet seats. I’m sure you can imagine why.
I wasn’t all that worried nonetheless, simply appreciative that our guide Hem
had pushed to have our room upgraded to a private bathroom with a Western
toilet. It’s always the little things that matter when you’re far away from
home and haven’t showered in three days. That said, I had much more impressive
things to consider when waking up at sunrise. Every guesthouse has easy access
to the roof so that travelers can watch the sun creep through the Himalayas and
cast its golden glow across the tiny, waking village. Locals go about their
daily routine, brushing teeth, cleaning bowls, arranging linens, while we stand
and gawp at the majestic glory of our surroundings. Snow capped peaks create a
gigantic panorama around you and you can’t help but be reminded of just how small
you are in this giant, giant world.
Fearing the loss of my fingers from the cold, we clambered
back to our room to take tourist photos from the window and pack to set off for
another long trek. Staring down the barrel at hours ours on your feet is
daunting to say the least. I’ve got the guts to tackle a 42km marathon, but
that’s based on the fact that it’s all going to be over in under 6 hours.
Mountain trekking is a completely different beast, with a myriad of different
weather conditions to battle. It’s hard work – your legs ache, your feet ache,
your shoulders and your back ache from hard beds and a relentless backpack
filled with water, a 1.5kg camera with a dysfunctional battery, and everything else
one needs for three nights in the mountains. But heck, it’s worth it.
Each time you reach a peak or crossing, and can see the
mighty Himalayas surrounding you, you know it’s worth it. Each time you pull
into a tiny ‘hotel’ to eat local bread and dal baht, it’s worth it, and you
know you damn well earned it. Every cup of tea and coffee, every bottle of
water is worth it. And heck; it’s only lunchtime. We’ve still got 12km to go
today.