It’s hard to believe that in just under 3 days I will have left Italy and be travelling solo again for a couple of weeks. What possessed me to plan to leave Italy so soon? Am I crazy? Despite having accommodation booked, I’m almost considering staying for another week and heading back to Lucca, or perhaps down to the Amalfi Coast…but then again I’ll be coming back to Italy till I die. I just love this country.
But anyway…after a rushed and teary farewell to Chel the other night we had only a day in Milan. This did not particularly concern me as Milan has never really appealed to me: I came here for one thing – Da Vinci’s Last Supper fresco. We got up and headed straight for the place to find that you need to book from 3 weeks to 3 months in advance. Shit. So, we came all the way to stinky expensive Milan for nothing! Pouty McPouty Pants!! I’ll book next time I guess…..but I don’t think I’ll stay in Milan again, perhaps do a day tour or something.
It was okay, certainly the Duomo was impressive. It is the largest gothic cathedral in the world (and you all know how much I LOVE gothic architecture). Inside wasn’t quite as impressive, but it was okay – I was probably a little bummed at not being able to see The Last Supper. The church itself was beautiful, mutedly colourful and lots adornments and patterns typical of the style. One figure looked like he had been disembowelled, which I thought was great!
We wandered around for a while in the rain, got hungry and made the fatal error of eating at McDonalds. It was a Sunday, I thought I’d have some curly fries and there didn’t seem to be much around that was open. Oh, how I should have known better! Tut tut.
Milan also has a dearth of internet that lead us around the damn city hunting. We eventually found wireless (free to boot! In Milan!) in a pub, so we ordered a drink each to sit down and check our emails. Well, two drinks and $20 later we understood why they could afford to give out wireless for free. $10 for a freaking beer! Andrew was aghast. And to top it off, it was HAPPY HOUR. The mind boggles at the potential ordinary price. *shudder*
Anyway…the next day we went off to Mario’s beloved Lucca, and I am pleased/annoyed to report that it is a beautiful little medieval town. Mario tells me that it used to be the capital of Tuscany until it lost a battle to Firenze, so everybody packed up and moved there. I think that this was a positive thing, because Lucca is absolutely stunning and kicks the pants off Firenze. Sure, they’ve got David, but Lucca has CHARACTER. Its beautiful cobbled streets are lined with colourful old buildings with shuttered windows opening up into the world in an inviting sense of timelessness. Despite being more touristy than I expected, it is an older generation of tourists, and hence a more pleasant and relaxing tourism feel. Along certain streets in the city the walls of the buildings are also lined with patterns of candles in containers, the reason for which I have no idea, hoping that Mario can explain this to me…they were pretty and added to the happy exhale feeling nonetheless.
An ancient wall surrounds the city’s excuse for a hub which you can enter in via a couple of doors, the most beautiful being Porta San Pietro (St. Peter’s door). In this gateway you can even see the old heavy duty metal doors and the grated drop-gate to keep people out. You can also head up and walk around the circumference of the city on top of the wall, which gives great views and a wonderfully serene feeling – the path stretches through trees and green as you look out over the buildings on one side and the mountains on the other. You breathe in the sense of happy but have to make sure you keep an eye out for cyclists and joggers. Definitely not my kind of city, that’s for sure….
You can walk up to the old bull ring which has now been converted into buildings surrounding an obviously circular courtyard. I thought that this was a lovely tradeoff – getting rid of a disgustingly violent sport and replace it with a beautiful place to relax and eat. I love you Lucca.
I was also under command to go and have some gelati, as Mario had told me that Lucca had the world’s best gelati. I strolled up with high expectations, and as much as I HATE it when Mario is right (it’s okay, it doesn’t happen that often)….I was not disappointed. The gelati was unbelievable. I know that Italy has great gelati, but I have to admit, I’m a convert. Give me gelati from Lucca any day.
We were going to eat at the highly recommended Puccini’s restaurant, but after discovering that 80% of their menu involved seafood of some description we headed for a small trattoria instead.
And that’s about it. I’m annoyed I didn’t book in more time to Lucca – after carting everybody else around the country I didn’t really have much time for myself. Snuffy and I are off to Roma to meet up with Mum, Dad, Jayne, Gerard and Jords…so it will be a busy couple of days. Next time I post I will probably be in the Netherlands, unless I decide to cancel that and stay in Italia….maybe my Indian visa will go wrong and I will need to stay here…..
Mwah.
Milan photos
Lucca photos
