Our last station in South America before heading home. We are staying with Marisa in her tiny little apartment and we got invited to dine with her family where we meet old and young mixed in harmony and respect. I learn a lot from these latino families. Here is one lesson I took to heart:
After the family dinner, Marisa had to go back the next day to pick up her reading glasses she had forgotten the night before and we were alone with the oldest member of the family (86 years old, the grandpa). I was able to exchange some sentences in spanish with him and soon we started to talk about Peru, the mountains, altitude and it's effects on humans. He was curious how we managed cycling under the conditions and how we dealt with the symptoms of high altitude: " I hope you had enough coca leaves to chew on" he remarked. Yes, I said, but it didn't work for me.....
"No, this stuff works - it always does", he was sure. We argued back and forth, while Marisa gave me a little -almost unnoticeable - push in the side: "Just say "si" and nod" she strongly suggested. Of course: "si" I said, "coca is great" I got a big smile and a warm handshake with a pat on the back.
So, what is so difficult about "giving in", not needing to push to be right? I had to be reminded, gently and kindly, and I was able to let go of my ego, my: "I need to tell him the truth - he is wrong" attitude.
Marisa laughed, Grandpa smiled and I was grateful.
Buenos Aires is one of the 20 largest cities in the world. It is, along with Mexico City and São Paulo, one of the three Latin American cities considered an 'alpha city'. Buenos Aires, Argentina has the third best quality of life of Latin American cities. Buenos Aires' quality of life is ranked 81st in the world, with its per capita income among the three highest in the region. It is the most visited city in South America (ahead of Rio de Janeiro) and the second most visited city across Spanish Latin America (behind Mexico City). It is also one of the most important, largest and most populous of South American capitals, often referred to as the Paris of South America.
Our days in town were numbered and - for me- there was a grey cloud hovering over me, disturbing me in my "lightness of being" in this attractive place: The plane is going to take us back to San Francisco where life has to - basically - start over again....how, when, where, who?
I pushed the thoughts and feelings aside: the uneasy notion of uncertainty of what is to come after the excitement of reuniting with friends and family had faded.
We had a few days just exploring before we needed to get serious about finding boxes for our bikes, taking them apart, packing....
This town is alive with music, dance, sunshine, culture, variations ..buzzing, like a town this size ought to be. I felt intoxicated by how much liveliness the city has to offer. There were tango lessons on the side walk, happy venders with tons of self made jewelry, parks and museums, traffic shooting through town like blood through veins and James and I flying with our unloaded bikes from one place to the next, guided by Marisa who's old bike was made functional by James, the day after our arrival. I was happily surprised to learn that we had "green light" just about at every corner and every one way street ..going against traffic. Marisa waved friendly and excusing herself at every traffic participant who caught us in the act of making traffic -rule -mistakes, constantly....it seemed as if we were doing everything the opposite. It was not entirely new to James and me, but being guided by a local had me "jumping all over" this way of living. Not being scared or guilty every time I see police. They didn't find anything wrong with us riding down a one way street the wrong way! I can see even more trouble to deal with when I get home...I have to get used to "the old way of living" again.
Those days were ecstatic- tumbling, swirling like a 10 day Tango without rest. Buenos Aires, I love you forever.
The dance is over and we are packed up, ready to go:
