February 6th
...... pedaling loaded with yummy, yummy bread- there were two somewhat rough, steep climbs and then smooth sailing....until O'Higgins we were told. What is a steep climb, anyways? Anything different from what I haven't done already? I hardly think so....
BUT, yes, it was RAINING!!! Pretty much the whole damn day.....getting worse towards the end of the day.
We had some insider info about a special refugio - two of them to be exact! By description it sounded like the second one would suit us well. Supposedly it had a wood stove to heat the water for a hot shower and a kitchen...sounds golden to me! After the two climbs (I only had to get off the bike and push at one ridiculous steep section!), the downhill to flat land was slow...we passed the first refugio and knew we only had 14km to go to the real good one. With a good tail wind this should be painless enough. BUT, (those damn buts) the rain worsened and though it got colder and colder the huge mosquitos got thicker and thicker. There was only one house on the right side: We reached the shelter! The day leaned towards it's end and I was done. I had just enough mental and physical capacity to make it to the door a few steps up......and found it locked! The truck parked in front of the house gave it away: Somebody is home.
It was said that it actually belongs to a person, but none-the-less, it's open to cyclists when that person isn't around, so we were told.
All right, the key is somewhere around here...while the rain got more confident James and I circled the house over and over again in disbelieve! There was no way to get in unless we break in! Not a good advertisement for cycle tourists!! A group of cyclists from the other direction joined us in the search....do we look as bad as they do? Man, they looked like drowning cats and/or dogs. At least we were able to tell them the next shelter is not too far down the road- into the head winds, but doable! I was not into turning back - I'd rather cycle the miserable 35km to O'Higgins instead turning around into the head wind....anyways, that little refugio did not have enough floor space for us all!
When you feel lost the cold gets colder, the rain gets wetter, the bike heavier and the world a few shades darker...
ONWARD! YES! At least we had the wind on our back side....
Here comes the good "BUT": we rode - maybe 5km- and there was another little wooden house....build seemingly for the same reason. No shower and kitchen and much smaller...it sure beats pitching the tent in the wind and rain. This tail end of the world is known for people on this road in need. Perfect size for our two loaded bikes, us and our tent. The huge fireplace was useless - no dry wood to be found to safe your lives. Shelter from the rain and wind was all we got and all we needed
.....changing into dry, warm clothes was done in a flash...enough food. Shit, I just remembered the half dozen raw eggs I had mounted -egg-carton, tape and all- on the outside of my panniers underneath the rain covers. They had been rocking and rolling, leaving no rock untouched behind since Tortel..couple of days ago! Do I dare unwrap them and find what is inside?
Bloody hell, the woman was right! The eggs were whole! Now that could leave the reader in doubt about how rough and dreadful the Carretera actually is......what -ever - let me tell you though....each egg was scrambled INSIDE - no yoke was whole and that tells you something...doesn't it? We enjoyed the eggs fried scrambled. Eggs have never tasted better!
Now we were good to settle for a very peaceful full night sleep dreaming of riding the last bit of the C. Austral - piece o' eggcake!
