Following Waipu we headed further north, first to Whangerei, then Whananaki then to Paihia. The first stop was a hostel stop...giving us all chance to recharge the batteries (of both ourselves and our phones/cameras)...also we managed to explore the town (I got a haircut and a mandolin case) and stock up on essentials....took an evening walk to a nearby Kauri grove with a tree top walk. A pleaseant stay was followed by the journey onwards and upwards for four of us (and back to Dargaville for Pip who went to see an old friend). We ended up camping in the school field of Whananaki primary school...a very small, off-the-beaten-track and charming place. One simple shop/cafe and a huge estuary in which swimming was good fun. It also boasted the Southern Hemisphere's longest footbridge (although it was not something of engineering beauty) which consited of three wooden planks positioned over a number of posts dug into the river bed....well worth a walk!
Next stop, where we met back up with Pip, was the Bay of Islands and Paihia...this was much more commercial and clearly the community was dominated by tourists and backpackers (one street on which we stayed at the Mousetrap lodge consisted entirely of backpackers lodges and hostels). This aside it was a nice place to wind away the hours snorkelling and taking the boat across to Russell (which is a very upmarket sort of a place) to have a beer in New Zealand's oldest pub 'The Duke of Marlborough'. Pip and I also managed to make a fair bit of money with some busking....a fund which will go towards a few nights accomodation or several of the fantastic pies available out here.
Moving further northwards we took in the Karikari peninsula staying first at Tokerau Bay (in a nice campsite, although the area was not as scenic as those we have become accustomed to) then at the beautiful Matai Bay on another perfectly located DOC campsite (it is a shame the Environment Agency don't have similar sites in the UK). Took in some more snorkelling, the best yet for fish and crystal clear waters...spotted rainbow perch and various others. This area is certainly a highlight of the trip.
Carrying on the journey took us all the way up to Tapotupotu Bay, just a little southeast of Cape Reinga. En route we took in Mangonui and Whangaroua harbour, both small but with their own charm. Tapotupotu had yet another great DOC site (bar the large amount of mozzies) and gave us the opportunity to take the day trek to Cape Reinga (about 12km return, but with a lot of steep up and down). This is one of the NZ must do experiences....it is the northernmost point that people can access in the country, and from it you can appreciate the Tasman meet the Pacific with violent waves at the point of confluence. You do this standing next to the famous lighthouse and feeling like you have reached the end of the world! Maori legend has it that the spirits of the dead make their journey to Cape Reinga via 'spirits bay' before they descend into the sea and the underworld...rising once again to say farewell at Three Kings islands and then returning to the Polynesian home of their ancestors. From here on in it will be Southwards for us!
