On May the 22nd we left Anchorage with bikes loaded and Ali back to full strength after a nasty flu. We cycled along the Parks Highway, a 363 mile road connecting Anchorage in the South with Fairbanks in the Interior.
The first week of riding took us from the flats, along an endless road lined by spruce and birch, to the treeless tundra. The sides of the road still covered in snow.
On May 26 the USA celebrates Memorial Day. Hundreds of Harley Davidsons, manned by bearded, leather jacketed men, women and dogs passed, to pay their respects to old time war companions. We spent a night with a group of these motor cyclists around a fire, surprised by the difference in our diet. Our healthy veggie dish seemed to dissapear next to their 2 pound steaks on the BBQ.
The views of Denali (Great One)/Mt McKinley, USA's highest peak, were stunning. The mountain seems to drift high above all others. One cannot but think of the souls attempting to reach the summit, and wish them good weather conditions.
After 6 days on the road we set up camp in Denali NP for 5 nights to explore some of this wilderness. Through the park leads one road, conveniently named Park Road. Due to snow, part of this road was still closed. We ventured in by bus to Toklat River, the last point open to public. Here we hiked up the wide river bed of the east fork, getting our feet wet crossing some icy streams. It was a gentle way to meet wildlife, for there were footprints of bears, wolves and caribou in the sand. Later on we saw these animals in real from behind the bus window. I guess the wildlife isn't as visible as on the African steppe, but when they do come into view, our hearts start thumping.
The highlight of this trip was a bike ride from Toklat back to our campgound. For 7 hours, we cycled amongst high cliffs, mountains coloured brown, red, green and white. In the backdrop constant view of the Great One. Arctic squirrels and snowshoe hares quickly jump from one little burrow to another. And big moose hold up bus traffic.
The wind and road gods were on our side as we left the park, for we had tailwind and downhill for a full day. We passed the Stampede trail, where Chris McCandless ventured into the wild in 1992. His story was written down in 'Into the Wild' by Jon Krakauer and is now playing in cinemas across the globe. Well worth the watch.
We were warmly welcomed by Dan and Lisa in Fairbanks. They are a couple from NZ, living here for 3 years. We met near Anchorage and received an invite to stay. We feel amazed by their unconditional generosity. It's great to rest and get prepared for the next stage.
On the 6th of June we will leave on a 16 hour bustrip to get to Prudhoe bay, at the Arctic Sea. And then back on the bike....Hopefully back around the 21st.
Lots of love
Anna and Alister
