where in the world is steph.... Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life? -- Mary Oliver

Greetings everyone!
I know it has been a while since my last update, I believe where I left you hanging was I was in Rhodes trying to find a way out of that very....shall i say interesting.....island. I wanted to get away from people, tourists and all the things that come with them, t-shirt shops, bad food, totem poles (ooops not in juneau) but you get the idea. I found the perfect place, an island called Tilos. I stayed in a domatia ON the water, the sea wall was our front yard. On one of my first nights the power went out (a common occurance i was soon to find out) and I layed on the sea wall staring up at the stars. It was one of the few times in my life I can recall seeing so many stars, other nights to follow where not as impressive. I just remember having the feeling of distances, the stars seemed for once three dimensional completely wrapped around me except for the sea at my side.

In the morning I would put on my swim suit and swim out directly in front. From there I would do my laundry by hand, have breakfast looking out over the ocean with Turkey in the distance and then head out to explore deserted villages, strange vegitation, empty beaches, beautiful scenery and to walk across the island. On many occasions I thought I heard someone near by me, only to realize that I had startled a goat. Goats seemed to either be my shawdows or my company on the island; I was never really sure which thought. I read an increadible amount (thankfully there were a few books people had left where I was staying and a used bookstore nearby as well). The women who owned the place i was staying didn't speak much English and neither did her friend next door, but they both talked to me in rapid fire Greek that forced my vocabulary to expand, just slightly. With my very horrible Greek, and Maria's slightly better English I learned that Maria was from Tilos, her husband who had passed away three years ago was not. They had two daughters one who lives in the US (Florida) and three grandchildren. Maria lives in Tilos from April until October, like many greeks I met on the islands she goes to Athens for the winter. My friendship I struck up with Maria proved to be invaluable later on. I didn't plan to stay in Tilos for as long as I did, but I have learned that when traveling it is best not to have too firm of plans and roll with the punches. I had planned to see some other islands in the area, but Tilos proved to keep me captivated.
I met a bunch of non-greeks living and working in Tilos including a girl who turned out to be Sonny Bono's goddaughter (her dad was his manager). I was invited to BBQ's, dinners and most importantly caught up on the local knowledge (like you cant miss the soccer game, and you must avoid the dumb deaf mute goat hearder......). On the eve of my depature that I was definetly not looking forward too I fell sick. I will spare you the details and just say I slept in the bathroom, had a fever for a week, and couldn't eat for what felt like an eternity. Maria was my saving grace in my days of sickness, cleaning my room, bringing me water and offering to get the doctor. If anyone ever decides to go to Tilos, I will personally make your arrangements to stay with her!!!!
I couldn't postpone my trip back to Athens any longer, and spent 20 hrs on the ferry sleeping on the dirtiest floor. I saw some friends while I was there, picked up the few things I had gone back to get,  and within 24hrs was headed back to the islands on a ferry. This time I headed to Sikinos. A strange island where the village has about 300 people who live in it during the winter (more in the summer) and the port has about five familys that stay through the winter. I was the last person of the season to stay at the place I was at, and was told I was put in their book, every year they keep track. Lucas had to close up things early this year, as he had been hit by a bus (two years ago) and needed more surgery. The people of Sikinos where increadible. I couldn't walk anywhere without just about every person passing me (even some comming from the opposite direction) offering me a ride. I met a fisherman who made the most amazing Kalamari I have ever had in my life. And despite my intense questioning on the subject, will never be able to re-create myself! The big attraction if you can call it that in Sikinos are some Roman collums that some years ago where used to make a church. After walking for an hour and a half in the midday sun, I was greatly disapointed by this, and actually the place gave me the creeps (I was there by myself) so I quickly left. However, Hora I found to be an increadible village full of life and interesting people.

From Sikinos I took a rather short ferry ride to Milos. Milos is where a farmer found the Venus de Milo in a field (been there). Milos is definetly more touristy than the islands I had just come from, but the break from that has allowed me to be refreshed and able to enjoy Milos and all its wonderful beaches, fields with random marble, amazing geology and very nice goat hurders who don't speak English but talk to me anyway. I still had a beach to myself for a good portion of the afternoon today, the tourist season has definetly wanned. Soon I will be saying goodbye to the sun and the sea, am headed to Germany on tuesday. I will be meeting up with my mom and visitng a friend before heading to Scotland to stay at a place with Llamas!!!!! (so excited, and yes, i realize how lame that makes me). I will be headed back to Greece mid october to see family with my mom, and to celebrate my ****gasp**** 25th birthday.
well i believe that is enough from me for now. hope everyone is doing well. sorry if i haven't responded to some of your e-mails, i promise to try to get caught up while I am in Athens before heading north to the RAIN.
cheers,