Arrived in Boudha, Kathmandu yesterday morning after the most unforgettable journey of my life!
Me and Annie left Delhi on the 3.30pm train to Gorakphur (North India) on Wednesday and were still reeling a little bit from life back in the big smoke - unwanted male attention / noise / pollution, the works : ( We had had to find refuge in a local bar just to keep ourselves sane ; ( which did mean we only just got to train in time as we downed the last of our Kingfishers!
Our train carriage also pronised to be one our worst journeys as we were sat with 2 guys who couldn't take their eyes of us - they just gave us the creeps. All other journeys we have been sat with really cool families who just want to talk but we were tired so just made camp on upper berths and got some kip. Train jounrey also took much longer than expected with many stops and we foolishly hadn't stocked up on food or water and the only options were deep fried 'god knows what!?!?'. As we sat on train a Tibetan looking guy came and asked if we were going to Nepal, we said yes and he asked if we would like to share a jeep with him and 9 others for the 2hr journey from Gorkahpur to the Nepalese border. We said YES for sure as had made no plans for this part of trip.
Finally arrived in Gorakphur about 9am next morning and wolfed down an omelet sarnie before finding our travel buddies to the border. We founs them negotiating a price with the local jeep drivers. It turnt out these guys were all students from the TCV school in Dharamsala where we had just come from. They were all aged between 16 - 21 and had just broken up for their 3 month holiday. The TCV school in Dharamsala is a very special school which teaches many subjects including Tibetan culture, Tibetan language, Buddhism, English, Science and all other school subjects to Tibetan refugees. This ensures that Tibetan culture and language survives and also produces some of the smartest, resourceful, brave people we have met.
As they bartered with the jeep drivers one of the guys pulled out a knife which he instantly reassured us was just to look tough - that was also the reason he was smoking cigarettes! They are so clued up and street wise and told us they had to be as some jeep drivers will promise to take you to the border but then loot you along the way! We instantly felt safe with them and with their fluency in Hindi (also taught to them at TCV!) we were so grateful for their help. So the 12 of us loaded our bags on top of the jeep and piled in. The boys were so interesting to talk to - Tashi1 had left Tibet with his mum when he was 12 leaving his older brother behind, Tashi2 had been born in Nepal as his parents had fled Tibet during the '59 uprising (his mother and father had later died and he is now an orphan a the age of 16) he ahs amazing spirit as do all the guys we spoke too. Some wish to become famous footballers, others doctors or lawyers, others wish to travel abroad. They all have such high hopes and the talent to acheive it. At their young age most could speak 4 or 5 languages and their bravery and streetwise attitude will definitely ensure they fulfill their dreams - i hope xxx
We listened to Michael Lansbrook along the way, smoked cigarettes and Tashi told me that he hoped to be as fat as me one day! Gotta admire their honesty! Tashi was a real romantic! About 3km from the border our jeep developed a technical fault and couldn't get out of first gear! Our boys told the driver if he was messing them around they would wreck his car good and proper so he drove us the rest of the way in first gear - noone messes with these guys!
Once at the border our gang was able to get through swiftly whilst me and Annie had to run back and forwards getting departure stamps and visas. We said our goodbyes and let them get on their way. When we finall y got through the border we looked for our guardian angels but they had gone so we sat down and planned our next step when along cane Tashi. How amazing - they had waited for us and said they had arranged a bus to Katmandu and their was room for the two of us. We once again piled in a bus and got to the bus stand where the super deluxe bus as promised turnt out to be a cattle carrier! We piled on and appeared to be on our way when the bus was stopped and alot of shouting and arguing went on outside. We did not have tickets but kept quiet and waited to see what happened. Eventually we awere asked to leave as it turnt out the bus organiser had double booked our seats and a bunch of westerners who had booked their tickets weeks earlier were waiting to get on our seats!
We prepared to get our bags off when our gang leader Tashi said it was possible to ride on the top of the bus with the luggage for free!! Me and Annie had moments b4 being saying how we would never do this but if our guys were gonna do it then we would too! What a way to enter Nepal! We climbed up the ladder and all 12 of us found a gap between bags to nestle down in - here and now decided this was defintely the best way to ride on a bus - leg room, 360 degree views, cool breeze in your hair, fag breaks when u like! and that pure feeling of exihliration!
We rode on the roofrack of the bus from 2pm into the night seeing the sunset behind us and the stars appear in the night sky. We chatted with Tashi, rested and smoked and took in the views as we moved from through towns, rural areas and finally into the mountains and along the river. We were'nt going to make it into Katmandu until late night early morning so Tashi2 who was going to Pokhara said he knew a town a couple of hours ahead where we could stop for the night before continuing our journey in the morning. Me and Annie jumped at the idea and got off the bus around 8pm in a town called Mowgli. We said goodbye to everyone and a big thankyou for looking after us like friends xxxx
Me Annie and Tashi then got some grub and slept like babies in a simple room in Mowgli. The next morning Tashi once again helped us onto minibus to Katmandu and we waved him off with fond memories (love him!!). 3 hrs later we arrived in Katmandu - polluted, noisy the usual but headed for the Tibetan community area in BOudha. Here a giant Stupa dominates the area and we found a super luxury room nearby where we could have a hot shower and finally rinse off the filth of the last few days travelling.
Have explored around the stupa here today, wandering amongst monks and people praying. A lovely vibe here and great food and beer!
Off to monastery now - time for detox xxxx Love to you all Soph
