sophsossig

McDonalds, McDonalds, KFC and a Pizza Hut

sophsossig — Sat, 1 Dec 2007 15:58:00 GMT

Hi guys,

In Smelly Delhi at the mo - on a mission to get new passport and visa so that I can come home soon! First visited the British Embassy to apply for new passport - a breeze and the people working there were so friendly and helpful. What a relief ; ) They have even taken the number of my stolen phone and will try and scare the thief (the dumb arse keeps answering the phone when we ring the number!) by telling him they are calling from the British Embassy and the police have a trace on the phone!

Got a personal chauffer for the day (for the bargain price of about 5 pounds!) when I went to the Embassy as the auto-rickshaw guys here drive you insane. They can ask for any price as they know, as a foreigner, you are stranded and if you try and get a cheaper deal off the next guy, the first guy just has a word in Hindi with him and he won't go below the same ridiculously high amount! They also all want to take you the 'Emporium' on the way to your destination 'Madam' 'just look, no buying!'. Alot of hassle which was thankfully all avoided by getting a personal taxi! The cycle rickshaw guys are so much more honest and hardworking! Big respect to them!

Have to wait 10 days before I can collect my new passport and then need to get visa. Then I will protect my new documents with my life!

Have been kind of enjoying Delhi while I'm here - is just really good to be away from Mcleod Ganj as the place is a bit of a ghost town at the moment. It is also really nice to feel invisible in a big city which is impossible in Mcleod. We visited Delhi Zoo the other day and saw white tigers - WOW! and many other creatures. It is a really big zoo set in huge, sprawling grounds but many of the big cats, elephants and bears looked very unhappy. Especially the leopards - such beautiful creatures kept in such horrible enclosures. Very sad : ( But the zoo really has the potential to be a good zoo as there is so much space to build decent enclosures but I guess it is the lack of funds preventing this.

Also visited Connaught Place yesterday for an awesome day of fast food feasting! Can't tell you how much I am missing English food at the moment. Think it may have something to do with Annies fab parcel she sent me - gravy granules, stuffing, proper Cadburys chocolate - mmmmmmmmmmmmm has just made me crave it all the more!!! So whe we arrived in Connaught Place - right outside a McDonalds and I was straight in there for a strawberry shake, then Pizza Hut for lunch and a Cornetto for afters. HEAVEN!! Oh and I just can't stop daydreaming about ham and cheese sandwiches on brown bread with cherry tomatoes and a dash of mustard . . . . . . . it is torture. Guess I will just have to make do with another momo though!

There was also a big music festival happening in the middle of Connaught Place when we arrived - very cool, lots of bands on a big stage and it is going on all weekend.

Off to Dehradun tomorrow for a few days then back here to collect visa. Over and out for now, lots of love xxxxxx

All out of Luck : (

sophsossig — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 19:39:00 GMT

What a bad week this has been . . . . .

Bag, passport, bank cards, mobile phone all stolen on Sunday night from the roof of my guesthouse : ( Yes I was careless but what was that thieving bastard doing on our rooftop so late at night and why couldn't he have the heart to return my passport at least?!?!? No use thinking of the what ifs now just have to soldier on and get replacement cash, passport etc . . . Which is a 'mare!!!

Mastercard told me I could collect emergency cash from a bank in Delhi (not helpful as am staying 12 hours away from there!) but came on the bus last night to collect anyway. Only to find that the bank couldn't give me cash - Mastercard had stitched me up! So am now sat in Delhi with my last 2000 rupees solely relying on the kindness of folks at home, who will send replacement bank card to me in next 10 days.

Then begins the passport and visa replacement process which will mean many long days sat in hot, sweaty waiting rooms : ( Oh my God could it get more depressing!

For any other careless travellers out there, like myself, please, please for your own sake do not let your passport and all those important things out of your sight - EVER!

Just hoping my luck will change soon - but the local lama tells me I should be careful as I will lose something else soon (give me a break man!!) and I asked the Magic Ball on Facebook if my luck would change soon and its answer . . . . .'my reply is no!'!

I Give Up!!!!

Happy Halloween

sophsossig — Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:37:00 GMT

Hello everybody, Things swimming along nicely here in Mcleod!

Went to see the documentary films that Jam's friends star in at Khana Nirvana the other night. The lady who made the films, Maria Blumencorn, from Germany was there showing them. The first one Escape From Tibet tells the story of a group of Tibetans that crossed over the Himalayas in 2000. One of these Tibetans was Suja - Jam's friend - and there was also 6 children aged between 8 and 12. It was a very touching story as all these children came without their parents and missed them so much. Their parents felt they had no choice but to send their children into exile where there is a better chance of education, opportunity and freedom. Maria now sponsors all 6 children who attend the TCV school here in Dharmasala.

The third film showed one childs reunion with his mother. His mother did not recgonise him when she arrived and asked her son 'hello, what is your name?, what is your fathers name?, what is your mothers name?' before it finally dawned on her. So sad but so happy to see them get to know each other again.

I must admit I had to bite my tongue to stop from laughing quite a few times - Suja has the greatest bowl haircut when he arrives over the mountains and when Tendim appeared on the screen I was nearly wetting myself! It is just so funny to see these guys that we know from the bar on film! And you know what it's like when something tickles you at a really inappropriate time! It just want to makes you laugh even more . . . .

Oh and the guide who bought these children over the mountain along with many other Tibetans during his time as a guide was also there in Khana Nirvana. A very special guy - here in India and showing his face as he no longer works as a guide becuase he was captured and imprisoned for two years before escaping. Can no longer return to Lhasa to help people across the border as Chinese police wil recgonise him.

Ended up in Xcite that night after a few whiskeys and a sing-a-long with some Scottish and Irish peeps we have met here. We then walked Chejam back to his home where we met a lovely little puppy. In our slighlty pissed state decided to encourage him to follow us home (ok we carried him home - dognapped him!) He then slept under our bed all night. In the sober light of day we realised how ugly this puppy actually was!! And then he was rude enough to insult our cooking turning up his nose at my porridge and Jam's bread and chips. So last night we took him back into town to try and find some meat for him and then maybe lose him in the crowd. But the cheeky sod run from us as soon as we got back to town anyway. Later saw him rooting through the rubbish for food (obviously found that more appealing than our cooking!)

Oh and Airtel (mobile company out here) r driving me insane. Annie you will understand the torment of 5 or 6 phone calls each day from
Airtel - playing dodgy Indian music or trying to sell ringtones to their 'dear customers'. Each morning they now send sickly sweet texts as a morning call e.g 'ood Morning, Greetings on your return from dreamland, may the sun welcome you to its new day with a sunny smile and the flowers petals send you a gentle wave to wish you a wonderful day' Honestly i feel like if I step outside it will be like a scene from Snow White - woodland creatures will flock to me and the world will be clouded in a warm, golden glow!

Going to celebrate Halloween here with some pumpkins and red and green food colouring to put in everything we cook tomorrow!

Wishing everyone back home a Happy Halloween. Lots of Love Soph xxxx

Congratulations HH The Dalai Lama

sophsossig — Thu, 18 Oct 2007 21:59:00 GMT

Hi guys,

Had a fab night last night at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA)where almost the whole Tibetan population of Mcleod had gathered to watch HH The Dalai Lama receive the Congressional Gold Medal from President Bush. TIPA is a large concert hall and sports ground where all big music events are held here. There had been activities all day - tug-o-war and music. The build up to the live ceremony at 10pm.

The ceremony was broadcast to everyone via a Tibetan/American TV channel so everything that was said was translated into Tibetan. It was fantastic to hear politicians speaking of peace, non-violence and honesty. Not words that usually spill from politicians mouths! Suit after suit took to the stage to praise the Dalai Lama and even more importantly (in my opinion) too lend their support to the Tibetan cause. It was wonderful to hear such powerful, influential people speak about the situation in Tibet. I just hope the ceremony got plenty of coverage across the world and that the people that matter were listening, the people that can actually help change the situation, and that they take action.

As I sat and watched this ceremony amongst the people who are actually being affected by the things that these politicians were talking about, I wondered if people in the crowd carried a glimmer of hope that this ceremony might just change things for Tibet. That soon they may be able to return to their homes and their families. Or were most people sceptical of any changes occuring? HH The Dalai Lama has received much recognition, support and awards over the 50 years, but still Tibet remains under occupation and Tibetans remain a second class citizen in their own country. I don't know how the crowds were feeling but you could certainly feel the love and respect they hold for their spiritual leader, HH The Dalai Lama. I just hope that for people with a glimmer of hope it will grow to something more than hope and that any sceptical people will be proved wrong!

Hopefully oneday The Dalai Lama will meet with Chinese officials to discuss and hopefully resolve the issues surrounding Tibet - environment, religious freedom, human rights, population transfer and the safe return of refugees to their homes. The congressional Gold award is certainly an honour to receive but surely the best gift HH The Dalai Lama could receive is Tibetan autonomy (or at least concrete steps towards this dream) in his lifetime.

On a lighter note - things going really good here in Mcleod. Before the ceremony last night the Tibetan army took to the stage to entertain the crowd. One guy had us all laughing with his crazy dance moves. Had to be seen to be believed!

Still taking Tibetan lessons everyday and even attempted to speak to the old guy selling tsampa in Tibetan today. Unfortunately he had sold out so that conversation was short and sweet! Discovered they do a language Tibetan course in NOrblingka (about 1 hr from here). But it does require staying in a monastery - and i'm not sure if i'm ready to go cold turkey just yet!

Have been entertaining more dinner guests - a group of young Scottish guys who we met in momo cafe. Had them all round ours for a momo feast! The hostess had one 2 many 8pms though and fell asleep before they had left! No suprise there for anyone who knows me!

The weather is getting chilly - the nights are really cold. Will have to bring out the sock hat again soon . . . .

Can't think of much else to say at the mo - apart from love and miss everyone tons and tons xxx

FREE TIBET!

sophsossig — Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:27:00 GMT

Howdy folks - things going well here in Mcleod. I am taking Tibetan lessons each morning with a friend of Jam's, Ludoop. He trained as a teacher in Tibet and is very good - every morning he comes to our room at 8.30am and goes over my homework from the day before then we practice the writing and pronunciation of the Tibetan alphabet. He is so sweet - always writes at the end of my homework - stuff like 'wonderful!', or 'very good work'. I feel just like I am at school again and am just waiting for the gold stars and smiley faces to come out!

Already I am able to read some words and spell some words that are said to me. And I am learning the Amdo dialect which is fab. Ludoop tells me this the real, traditional Tibetan language that has not been changed or influenced by any other language. My pronunciation still needs quite a bit of work - you know what it's like Annie - he says 'la' and I say 'ba' (this goes on for quite a while - he eventually gives up and says it is correct even though I just spat out some obscure sound that doesn't sound a bit like what he said!) and my tongue just will not do what I want it to do! But practice makes perfect!

My plans for me and Jam to become the next Mr and Mrs Fawlty at our guesthouse have hit a big hitch - the path leading to our guesthouse has been washed away by the monsoon rains (which still haven't stopped completely) so attracting guests is a bit difficult! The owner has promised the path will be fixed soon - but he also tells us he will be installing laptops and building a swimming pool soon too! So we shall wait and see . . . . .

Today in Mcleod the streets are lined with market stalls - apparently this marks the end of the monsoon season. Many market stall owners from Lower Dharmasala bring their stalls up here, selling items in preperation for the new season. Saves the trip down to Lower Dharmasala to buy any essentials. That trip is always an experience though. You pay 7 rupees and get wedged into a jeep (a 9 seater which seats 12!) doesn't matter how big or small the passengers are - the driver doesn't leave until he has squeezed in 12 people!

Am off to watch MORE movies now - loving having my new TV and DVD player. Have watched Oceans 11,12 and 13 and all of the Pirates of the Carribean movies already! And watched Finding Neverland and Million Dollar Baby yesterday - didn't stop crying for most of the day! Wicked but emotional movies!

Finally must rant about the Tibet situation - the more I see and hear about the situation the more it makes me want to do something to help! I heard from a fellow traveller who visited Tibet recently that the main area of Lhasa is now almost entirely made up of Chinese businesses whilst the Tibetans live and work on the outskirts where they are also resorted to begging. Each day more and more Chinese flood into Tibet - slowly wiping out any true areas of Tibet.

No Tibetan is able to openly own a picture let alone openly pray or speak of the Dalai Lama. The Chinese view him as a dangerous man and ask monks and nuns to denounce their spiritual leader. Chinese language is the first language taught to all Tibetans and the Tibetan language is slowly being wiped out. This strict control over the Tibetans is destroying their religion and culture whilst the constant influx of Chinese is wiping out their culture.

And the Tibetans were living a free and content life just over 50 years ago - this is not long. Many older Tibetans still have horrific memories of the Chinese occupation. Jam's grandmother told him that in the 1950's she saw her two older brothers go off on their horses to protect their village from the Chinese army. They never returned. The slaughter of many Tibetans which occured at this time is common knowledge and all though this does not continue to this day. The Chinese occupation does - it seems they have not reflected on what they done and thought it was a bad thing. Never felt they should return Tibet to the Tibetans.

I just imagine if this was happening in my country - how I would feel, how frustrated I would feel. England was able to grant independence to India and many other countries after invading and conquering them - is there really no way that China can do the same in Tibet? Just to let them govern their own religion, culture, education etc in their own country. Although China is highly repsected by many countries for its business success - granting independence to Tibet would grant it much greater respect from the worldwide community and give it a much better reputation as a country with a heart - surely beneficial to tourism in China and general worldwide relations. Granting independence or at least some autonomy to Tibet could be beneficial on both sides.

Final note on the plight of Tibetan refugees - the Tibetan Government in exile do their best to help them but they lack any real clout. Many refugees are stuck in India with no means of leaving. They arrive with no passport and must wait up to two years maybe longer before receiving travel documents (Most Tibetans are unaware of this situationwhen they leave Tibet for India - as information is tightly controlled by the Chinese). Any Tibetans returning to Tibet after coming to India are arrested and imprisoned (the Chinese do not want them to reveal any information about their experiences in India - all part of their strict control on information entering China e.g. censored websites etc). Perhaps if the Tibetans who returned were able to tell of their experiences in India to others many would think twice about coming. So the options for refugees are limited - all they can do is wait. Hope for a chance to study or work abroad or in India (which costs money and inevitably requires a sponsor) or return to Tibet (risking their lives and freedom).

While they wait they think of their families and friends that they left behind every day - hoping to meet them again. Just put yourself in this position for a moment - a position where your freedom and choices are so limited, it's not a good place to be.

Perhaps if refugees could be promised some protection once they return to Tibet but this is not possible. The Tibetan Governement does not have the power to do this - they need help and support from more influential countries. But no-one seems to be listening.

OK enough said - just want at least some people to read this and look into the situation further for themselves as this is only my view on things.

Love and Miss My Sis and her Bambinos Very Much. xxxxxx

Told You I'd Be Back!!!

sophsossig — Sat, 1 Sep 2007 00:51:00 GMT

Wow - i'm back and it is great to see Jam again! I arrived in Delhi Monday morning after sleeping through most of the Virgin flight and missing out on all the great entertainment they have onboard! Jam was there at the airport to meet me which was lovely : ) and we spent one night in Delhi before returning to Mcleod on the 12hr bus ride (still the most comfortable buses u can travel in i think). Saw Suja and Dolma in Delhi and also got some good news from the Tibetan Welfare Office regarding Jam coming to England. Fingers crossed it will not be as long as I was expecting.

Went for brekkie in Himalaya when i returned (sweet bread and hot milk-the best!) and saw Baby! Check out Slim Shady shot in pics. Then returned to our room - falling over along the way of course! - there is a mountain goat inside me somewhere just haven't discovered it yet! SLept most of the day before heading into town and seeing Sally, Tenzin, Karma, Tendim, Dragon, (the clan Mcleod!).

Enjoyed a few Kingfishers in Hotel Tibet and Ashoka (where the loveliest waiter from Mcllos now works - returned from the darkside!!) just for old times sake of course! Before walking home and finding a leech had sucked the blood from between my toes. Bloody little suckers - got another one on me this afternoon too! Should be healthy little suckers after drinking my blood with all the antibiotics i'm taking!

Woke next morning and visited the temple where i wrote Katys name on a piece of paper which will be taken to the Dalai Lama and many other high lamas who will say prayers for her. In return they gave me some special pooja (powder which may be eaten and is very good for health) and a special red piece of string blessed by the Dalai Lama which I will now wear around my neck and think of everyone back home. Also got Jam cooking again - have missed his food alot! Filling up on all the lovely things i've missed - momos. thukpa, thentuk and Jam salad. Went for drinks with Karma, Baby and Tendim last night and spent all day today moving in to new room (same guesthouse different room!) less mould and no giant spiders!

Not much else to tell at the mo - just that I miss everyone already but everyone here is loving looking at photos and listening to recordings of the family! Katy please send some more voice recordings - Robyn saying Tashi Delek to everyone is going down a storm!

Lots of love to everyone - Annie wish you were here!

Gallery: Sophies Return to Mcleod

sophsossig — Sat, 1 Sep 2007 00:19:00 GMT

Happy Birthday Jam!

sophsossig — Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:44:00 GMT

This is over and out from India - but I have no doubt in my heart that I will return!

A short goodbye from this fabulous place as am celebrating Jams birthday in Hotel Tibet with Jam (of course!), Baby (got holiday today - yay!), Karma, Tendim, Something (lay off the spots!) and Round Face (sorry forgot your real name!).

All that is left to say is that i may have lost my camera, my phone and sometimes my mind but have gained so much more. A beautiful husband, a million experiences that I will never forget and are just too vast to mention, a Buddhist attitude to life which will hopefully stay with me forever and the company of many good people. Can't believe it is over but know this is not the end . . . . .

Had a wicked last night at Babyfaces wedding last night, Sally was out of control with his singing and Boy George is a pleasure to talk too - only wish we had spoke sooner! Lisa and Steph will also stick out in my mind from last night - Steph is a great girl from California with a very strong mind and very curly hair! And Lisa was an awesome chat last night on the balcony when i couldn't sleep . . . .

Will get on bus to Delhi tonight and then hopefully get visa stamped and return to BLighty - as you all know I am very excited about seeing everyone and reaccquianting myself with little Eli! Can't wait to see you guys - love you so much xxxx

Just don't know what i am going to do myself without being here though - so watch this space may be returning very, very soon!!!

Gallery: Random!

sophsossig — Wed, 11 Jul 2007 22:28:00 GMT

It's The Final Countdown!!!

sophsossig — Sat, 7 Jul 2007 23:12:00 GMT

Cor Blimey folks only 10 more days left here in India - can't believe it is coming to an end - 6 months has felt like 6 weeks and I will of course never forget this life -changing trip!!!

Have just arrived back in Mcleod Ganj after a nearly trip to Nepal - thought that I would have to go there to renew visa which runs out tomorrow but after making a phone call in Delhi discovered that i can visit a couple of offices there and get stamp to stay until 17th July.

Delhi was bloody awful - so hot and humid! Terrible room for first night - hot and biting ants crawling over the bed : ( but discovered better rooms after with super-charged fans and Star movies! Travelled all over Delhi in rickshaw to get my visa extende. Ministery of home Affairs on first day - who then send you to the FRRO office the next day - who then tell me i have to come back in four days for the final stamp (which I said bollocks to and stormed out of office in true Sophie Strop way!!)The guy who told me to come back in four days really pissed me off - i had waited 3 hours to see him thinking that he would be the one to give me the stamp - all he bloody done was staple my bits of paper together, scribble on another bit of paper and then give me the bad news!!!!

Luckily spoke to a more reasonable guy after who said it was possible to come back on the day of my choice for stamp - revived my faith in human nature!!

Also visited Mousserie and Dehradun on our travels to Delhi - was hoping to escape the heat of Delhi in these places but they both proved to be just as hot and wet! Stayed in the Tibetan colony in Dehradun which was really nice - the most beautiful stupa is situated there. You can go in side and there are beautiful gardens surrounding it. Mousserie was a bit cooler as it is a hill retreat but the main town was packed out with expensive hotels aimed at Indian tourists and the room we got was almost dripping with water it was so damp! Stayed one night then got the hell out of there - wouldn't recommend the place!

Caught the metro in Delhi which was a delight - so clean and air conditioned. Also visited India Gate where you don't get hassled and can just walk around in peace! Good to find some good in Delhi - previously just thought it was a dive! Really wish the Indian governement would issue bikes with gears to the poor cycle rickshaw drivers - these guys work so hard in the heat for so little money.

So back in Mcleod and just in time for the Dalai Lamas birthday yesterday - didn't visit the temple as was still recovering from bus journey from Delhi but hope to go tomorrow and see him. Lots of people in Tibetan dress wandering around yesterday and a very good vibe to the place. Me, Jam, Tendim and Baby celebrated together in Hotel Tibet and Himalaya - polished off a bottle of 8pm on HH behalf!

Anyway have gone on and on so will shut up now - all is left to say is that i can't wait to see everyone again! Sis, kids, nan, Jo, the Farthings!!, Uni reunion! Bonnie, EVERYBODY!!!, And to have a roast dinner and a glass of wine! Lots of love Soph xxxxxxxx

I Don't Want To Leave!!

sophsossig — Wed, 27 Jun 2007 20:56:00 GMT

Hey guys,

Life still good here in Mcleod - have finally stopped pining for Annie and am getting used to just hanging!

Can't believe I have to leave in less than 3 weeks - if only there was two of me! Am going to miss this place so much and the people - am so fond of lots of Jams friends - Karma, Tendim, Sally, and even Suja. Will miss their sense of humour and just sitting and lsitening to them speak to each other in Tibetan. Chorunboo! Seriously! I could sit and listen for hours - and sometimes I can even work out what their talking about! It is just a lovely language to hear being spoken and I will miss it : (

Have been hanging at waterfall when the weather allows - getting a bit wet here now and not so sunny. Have also made a few trips to the temple which is a lovely place to be - so peaceful and Jam helps me to pray. Circumambulate three times, spin the prayer wheels and prostrations - also got to watch monks debating there the other day - alot of shouting and clapping of hands!

Our room is like an insect zoo - Tashis the size of your hand and carrying their devil spawn!, beetles galore, scorpions and even a pesky little mouse who comes and shits in our teacups and causes havoc in the kitchen at night. Also have an army of ants in kitchen who all descend at night and then when I enter in the morning they all march off together taking bits of our food with them! Cheeky buggers!

Leaving for Delhi tomorrow and then onto Nepal before heading back to catch my flight . . . . . . .

Can't wait to see everyone again - lots and lots of love Soph xxxx

I Just Don't Know What To Do With Myself

sophsossig — Mon, 18 Jun 2007 16:49:00 GMT

G'day folks - the rumours are true! Eddy and Patsy are no more - Annie left the country and returned to Blighty about a week ago and is it just a coincidence that I have been sick and confined to bed since then!?!?! Could also be that bloody infection that just won't pack up and piss off : (

Annie left for Delhi on a bus last Thursday with Baby - with the usual tears and kataks at the bus stand - it was so sad to see her go as we have had such a wicked time travelling together. Since we left Annies house in Barnet we have been laughing and taking the piss and had no (not one!) bitch fight! I keep walking around with an insane grin on my face when I see or think or something that me and Annie would have laughed at! But somethings I just can't share or explain with the hubby - Annie u will understand! Who else can pull a silly face like Eddy, who else can take the piss out of the Mcleod crew like Annie?!?!?!? U R MISSED xxxxx

Will just have to wait till our reunion - I will be wetting myself so please warn your mum to strengthen the toilet flush!

Meanwhile in Annies absence me and Jam tried to escape the monsoon and go to Ladakh. It is supposed to be like a Little Tibet, situated in North India on the Tibetan border and completely different climate - dry, desert and mountainous. Sounded delicious and was via Manali - even better. BUT before I left I had started to feel a little unwell - sore back and stomach but got some herbal stuff and braved the bus to Manali.

Only got worse and spent the next few days trying to get better with water and trips to local doctor and hospital before just getting on a bus to Ladakh and just trying to get there. Bad idea - half way there stopped at Keylong and developed worst headache and fever ever!!! Please God I get the hint I should not go to Ladakh - so after two days recovering in a halfway town - gave up and returned to Mcleod! Could go into much more detail about these hellish 7 or 8 days of my life but I am trying to erase it all from my memory! All i can say is Indian hospitals drive me mental - join this queue, see this doctor, join this other queue, pay this money, join this queue, pay more money - AHHHHHHHHHHH!!! Jam passed test one of being Sophies husband - didn't ask 4 divorce after seeing me ill - I'm an angry ill person - stamping feet, swearing, sweaty - bloody attractive!

So back in Mcleod - got washed out of Jams room yesterday. The monsoons are a coming! Not a bad thing really - now we are downstairs in new room (Inas old room Annie) with kitchen, bathroom and balcony to watch the rains from and the usual assortment of creepy crawlies : )

Write again soon. Lots of Love SOph xxxxx

Back to Mcleod . . .

sophsossig — Mon, 28 May 2007 19:32:00 GMT

Hey guys, the honeymooners returned to Mcleod last night after a bitch of a journey! Please God no more local buses - we're just minutes from D-Sala but stopped every 5 bloody metres to let people, goats, puking children on and off bus. Just get me back dudes . . . .

Had a wicked time in Manali - hiring the bike was the best thing we done. I even rode the beast and think i'm a bit of a natural - do forget where the brakes are at times so don't think i'm quite roadworthy yet but practise makes perfick! Found a natural hot spring next to the river just outside of Manali - just like a really hot bath but too many half naked Indian guys washing their balls in it to make me want to jump in!

Moved to Vashist for last couple of nights in Manali - and bumped into STEVE!~!!!! Love HIM!!! Met him in Varkala and at Ammas ashram. Guy from Grimsby who i swear was the MOST excited about my marriage to Jam! He just couldn't stop smiling and wishing us luck and congratulations. Hope to catch up with him again - weird he was the only person left to bump into again. There have just been some people along this trip that you just know or wish you will bump into again - so far Dave and Irish Allepey boys and my final one STEVE! It's just meant to be . . .

Also visited Reshwarar lake about 4 hours out from Manali (near Mandi - DIVE!!). Many Buddhist monastries and a very Tibetan feel to the place. Not much to do in the evenings but luckily our monastery room had TV - Star Movies all the way! Dodgy Kung-Fu Tai-Chi movies - love spotting the ropes!

Good to be back home - although I have lost at all bets along our journey so now have to cook and wash for a week - poor chap, hope he likes omelettes and half washed clothes . . . .

Celebrated Annies b'day in lovely Tibetan restaurant in Old Manali - delicious cake with "Happy Birthday Annie Kingfisher' written across it!

Also found great restaurant in New Manali - Chopsticks - that do a great lock in! Card playing and Kingfisher drinking until 1 in the morning. And if anyone visits Manali you just have to eat at the Tibetan restaurant on the road to Vashist - Phuntok Garden Restaurant or something like that (just cross the river from New Manali and follow the road straight up until you see it on your left - just before petrol station) The best food I have ever tasted!

Hope to go back to Manali soon and also take a road trip (on bike of course!) to Ladakh.

Love, hugs and kisses to you all - keep getting love bombs about coming home - very excited!

Gallery: Manali - Rohtang

sophsossig — Mon, 28 May 2007 19:10:00 GMT

Honeymoon Heaven!!

sophsossig — Tue, 22 May 2007 03:12:00 GMT

I LOVE MANALI!! Have been here a few days and feels likea real holiday. Me and Jam have got the best room in Old Manali with panoramic views of the valley and mountains - waterfalls, snow mountains . . . . and awesome balcony which we share with our neighbours Sally and Christine. Travelled with us by a stroke of chance from Mcleod. Cool to have neighbours to hang out with - if only Sally would shut up singing!

Have sat on a real life yak - smaller than I imagined but definitely hairier than I imagined! Have explored nearby Vashist and New Manali - where you can feast on delicious English fruit - cherries, apricots, peaches, strawberries - who could ask for more.

Had one of the best days of my life today - rode on the back of a Yamaha bike up to the snowline where me and Annie wore Cruella De Ville style jackets to keep warm and fell about in the snow! It even snowed while we were up there and there were glaciers at least 10 meteres deep!The ride there was amazing - Dad you would have been proud of both me and Jam! Felt like a real biker - its wild just pay about six pounds and get yourself a bike - the roads are winding mountain roads and in some places its more like off-roading! A complete thrill - can't wait to get back on it tomorrow.

Annie and Baby r staying in Vashist and me and Jam are across the valley in old manali - have found a great Tee-betan restaurant where we hang out in the evenings and I can get my daily dose of momos.

Katy - loving the videos you are sending - just finding it hard to get a pair of headphones to listen to them in this place. Wedding rings are on order - so our home made rings made from Tetley teabag strings might have to go soon!

Love you all millions. Count down is on - less then two months until my return . . . .

PS HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANNIE FOR TOMORROW!!

Manali Here We Come . .

sophsossig — Fri, 18 May 2007 17:58:00 GMT

Just a quick update - me and Jam heading to Manali tonight for a few days. Will take about 10 hours on the overnight bus - should be fun. There are hot springs there and real life Tibetan yaks! I become more Tibetan by the day - may be tempted to take a bite of the yak though - tasted yak meat the other day and it is delicious! Yep - veggie thing not going so well out here . . .

Moved into new pad the other day - had enough of Bhagsu after the guest house owners got funny about us having friends over and the freaky child who just entered our room and stared at us was getting a bit much. DAMIEN!!!!

Big momma short changed us as we paid in advance for the month but will perservere and try to get our dosh back - bloody chancer and she tried to take our stove out my hand when we left. Would of just let her have it as she does have biceps to match Hulk Hogan but she had pissed us off too much and was feeling angry and brave!

New pad is a dream - Jam lives on our rooftop, we have kitchen, own bathroom, freedom, peace, and a view to die for if they could just chop down a few trees! Might get out there and do it myself as I am fully trained in destroying all things nature! Thank you ECB

Annie and Baby on bikes today - good luck to them, they phoned earlier and had broken down turns out they had run out of petrol - numptees!!

All else cool here - love to you all. Getting so excited about seeing everyone again . . . .

Nomad Initiation . . .

sophsossig — Tue, 15 May 2007 19:54:00 GMT

Hi Guys, Writing this with much effort after a trip to Triund - yawn!!!

Me and Jam headed up to Triund which is near the snow line - a 4 hour trek I was told before leaving - yesterday afternoon after a lazy morning recovering from the night before. Have been enjoying some fun nights in Mcllos and this night was something else! We usually leave Mcllos about 11pm as they shut down and if you want to keep on partying Excite is the place to go. However this night the owner of Mcllos didn't want to see us leave and turn't the bar into a D-I-S-C-O!!!! A dancefloor appeared from nowhere - flashing squares and everything - and the place was rocking with people cutting some crazy dance moves. Baby and Jam even pulled out a few ballroom dance moves - together! The party then continued on Jams rooftop with me, Annie, Baby, Tenzin (Tibetan/American guy) and his two lovely ladies Arty and Zola.

Finally left for Triund with supplies at about 1.30pm and by christ it was toughie! Only felt like crying at one point when we were just a few minutes away from the top but I made it - hooray! And I shouldn't complain as Jam was the one carrying the most weight on his back. Once there - 5 and half hours later! - it was well worth it as you can see the remnants of a glacier and the snow mountains spread out before you - beautiful. We then found ourselves a little spot to make a fire and settle down for the night. My brilliant nomadic hubby went to fetch firewood and constructed a stove from a few stones and continued to cook up the most delicious thentuk EVER! Noodles, yak meat!, spices, onions, peppers - sure beats a can of baked beans when your camping! We then found a spot to lay our sleeping bags down and slept soundly under the stars. Did wake up in the middle of the night to find a giant slug trying make itself at home in my hair - yuck! and the bloody crows pecked their way into the butter and our fags!

Woke this morning to find Jam had disappeared - just gone to fetch water from river about an hour down the valley (this is why i will never make a nomad - where do they find the energy!) - he then returned and cooked a traditional Tibetan meal of tsampa, butter and yak cheese. Thentuk is still my fav and you can't beat a good momo.

Decided to head back down at lunch time as could hear rolls of thunder and with no water supply nearby staying any longer would have been a bit of a mission. Feel that I still have a lot to learn before I can call myself a true nomadic wife . . . . feel like a Kingfisher is well deserved tonight for us two! Can taste the sweet, cold beer running down my throat now - mmmmmmmmmmmmm : )

Have seen Paradox from Goa in the street so hope to bump into him again, getting rings today too!!!

Lots of love to everybody - miss you and can't wait to see you again xxxxxxxxx

Gallery: Wedding Day

sophsossig — Wed, 9 May 2007 20:50:00 GMT

Mr and Mrs Jam!!

sophsossig — Wed, 9 May 2007 17:52:00 GMT

Hey folks - what a crazy week this has been! Me and Jam were married on Monday and it was one of the best days of my life!

Me and Jam started the day by getting up early and leaving his rooftop to go to the temple. Here we done three prostrations (Buddhist practice where you place hands - palms together - on your head, mouth and heart before kneeling and touching the floor with your head) which demonstrate your desire to have the wisdom, speech and heart of Buddha. We then circumabulated the temple three times and spun the prayer wheels inside the temple. We then sat together and in our hearts made our promises to each other. We then walked back and told our promises to each other before stopping for a cuppa in Tara cafe. It was a very peaceful, happy morning. I then went and crashed in Bhagsu with Annie in preparation for the wedding party in the evening.

At 4pm i walked to Jams and we put our outfits on! It was such a nice feeling to prepare for the party with Jam and share the whole day with him - not like English weddings! Think they should scrap the rule of not seeing the bride before the big day - our way felt very special! Jams outfit was amazing - photos will be up soon. The outfits are called chupas and are traditional Amdo dress. He wore blue and I wore green. We then walked from his rooftop to Himalaya restaurant where the party was being held. These outfits are bloody hot - made for Tibetan nomads who live in the mountains so was a bit 'ot when I arrived! Then sat with a cup of salty Amdo tea and waited for guests to arrive. Baby and Annie were great wedding planners and got all the last minute bits and the guys at Himalaya put on a real spread - lots of nibbles and delicious buffet for all the guests.

Cheejam who is Jams cousin and very close to him also helped with preparations and his other friends came early to put their outfits on. I am slowly getting to know the names of most of Jams friends but there were alot to remember - over 40 guests. I was very happy to see K.G (ex monk who i teach English too), Keko and Nemsee (Chheejams wife and child), Bg Bro and Golinda and Super Monk (who almost didn't come in as he was too shy!). Alan and Jimmy and Jess and Bridget also arrived although a bit late but it was good to see some friends of mine that I had met along the way. Although admittedly I had only known Jess and Bridget for about a week and Alan and Jimmy were two Irish guys who we had one drunken night with in Allepy! They stuck to their steroetypical Irish ways and were bladdered when they arrived - Jimmy eventually had to be escorted out!

Once the guests arrived me and Jam sat next to each other with a picture of HH The Dalai Lama behind us. All the guests then came and put Kataks (prayer scarves) around my neck and Jams neck. Others also put a katak next to HH. Envelopes containing small money offerings were also placed in front of us. It was so special and the guests wished us a happy life and gave us hugs and kisses. We then took all the kataks off keeping only one on us and food was served to us. Then the booze came out (which me and Jam had gone to buy a few days before - vodka and whiskey!!!)and the singing begun. Singing is such a huge part of the entertainment with TIbetan people and it truly is amazing - my hubby has the best voice!!! A katak was tied around a carton of Tropicana which was then passed around to all the guests who took a turn to sing. Us English girls just gave speeches - Annies was lovely a real tearbreaker! - but songs included tradtional Amdo songs, BOn Jovi (thanks baby) and Michael Lansrock. Everybody then got up to dance and just have a good time!

Me , Jam, Annie, Baby, Alan, Soojah, Dolma, Cheejam, Jess and Bridget all left the party earlier and went to Mcllos for a few more bevvies before me and Jam escorted Cheejam home where we crashed for the night. It really was an amzing day and I didn't want to take my dress off!

In typical Sophie style I woke the next day still pissed as a fart and spent the morning with my head in the toilet! But still i was very happy to be with my hubby and Cheejam and his family.

Me and Jam then spent the afternoon at Bhagsu waterfall - our favourite place before celebrating further in Mcllos as there was one importan t guest that we forgot to invite!!!! He is a relative of Jams who is an avid campaigner for the Free Tibet campaign and although he was a little angry he was very happy for us.

I'm sure there is much I have forgotten in this entry as it was such a busy day packed with many memorable moments but there are plenty of photos to remember the day by and maybe even a video!

I now plan to spend as much time with Jam as I can and just enjoy being Mrs Jam. All my love to folks at home. Can't wait to see you in July. xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Helllooooooo!!!

sophsossig — Sat, 5 May 2007 15:38:00 GMT

Hello everybody - no entry for a while have been busy, busy, busy! Am volunteering at the baby centre here in the mornings which is just the best - the kids are aged 6 months to 3 years and are adorable. Have nicknamed most of them now - Madge (sings like a canary), Hitler, The Godfather and Phil and Grant (always bruising each other up and have the bald heads!!)

Also teaching English to Supermonk still which is always wicked - he is so humble and smart and I could listen for hours when he talks about Buddhism.

Have also been busy making wedding plans for the big day on Monday. I have got my dress which is a beautiful amdo style chumda?!?! and I will post photos soon. Went to see a lama who decided that May 7th was the day me and Jam should be married - was a bit of a shock that it would be so soon! It is a Buddhist tradition and this day should bring us the most luck. He also said that we would have a happy, wonderful future together.

Must go now as have to get booze for the big party afterwards!!! Whiskey, whiskey and more whiskey . . . . .

Love to you all xxxxxx