March 29: Around Ashgabat
I spent a few much-needed hours outside of Ashgabat, touring the sights such as the Kopet Dag mountains on the border with Iran (SO tempted to make a run for it!), Goek-Depe, where thousands of Turkmen died in a last-ditch effort to defend their country against the Russians in 1881, and the Saparmurat Hajjı mosque. I also took the Turkmenbashi Cableway up 1300 m for some hazy views of Ashgabat. I desperately wanted to ride a famed Akhal-Teke horse, but couldn’t find a stable in operation (all of the horses were out in the desert for their ‘day off’). I had also wanted to go to the Kow-Ata Underground Lake and a nearby archaeological site, but quotes from taxi drivers to do so were ludicrous (eg. 250 USD) and I flat-out refused to pay that much.
March 30: Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi
I high-tailed it out of Ashgabat to the western port city of Turkmenbashi and enjoyed the rural if desolate scenery amidst the thumping tunes of the shared-taxi driver (the typical loveable grab-bag of Western hip-hop, Russian techno, and sappy Central Asian ballads). We arrived after dark and I had little choice but to spend the night at one of two hotels in town, forking up a painfully hefty 50 USD. I was hoping to at least take advantage of the advertised internet and gym, but again let down to hear that I needed my own laptop for the wi-fi and that the gym was only open in the afternoon. Instead, I took a hot shower (a rarity during Central Asian travels and thus much savoured when available) and spread out as much as possible on the large and admittedly very comfortable bed. I even ordered room service pizza for 3 USD. Hey, if I have to stay in a hotel, I might as well try to enjoy it! After all, I hadn't eaten all day and the next point on my itinerary was an all-day ferry across the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan - a solo female traveler can do with a little self-pampering every now and then...!
