I
got up at the crack of dawn (ok – the vacation version) to catch
the 8:40 train to Voss where i would begin the much touristed “Norway
in a Nutshell” package trip. I wasn't thrilled at the prospect of
taking my “backpack”, which felt a lot more like an elephant by
that stage, along for the ride but as it turned out the trip was
American-friendly (meaning little if any walking was involved) and
carrying my luggage was relatively painless.
Ok
– i will quit boring you with the logistics and get right into the
trip itself.
After
disembarking at the small town of Voss us tourists (cameras at the
ready) where herded onto several buses where we began the
hair-raising journey to Gudvangen. At first it was all just pretty
scenery – green fields and forested hills studded with fruit trees
and a few cattle and sheep (i've yet to see any place with as many
sheep as we have back home, but i still can't understand why most
tourists are so very excited to see them). I was starting to wonder
where the hair-raising bit, so emphasised by the website was.
Then
we got to a place called Stalheim at the top of a large hill...and
pretty much tumbled (albeit very slowly and carefully) down to
Gudvangen (our destination).
The
road we followed has a gradient of 1:18 (very very steep, as in one
of the steepest in the world, to those of you like me who didn't
exactly ace physics) which pretty much means hairpin curves the whole
way down. This is concerning enough in a small car but was just
plain terrifying (luckily the scenery made it awe-inspiring too) in a
large convoy of buses. My photography skills have never been so
severely tested (it was a compromise between hanging on to the rails
or my camera). Can't say i envy the locals sitting their driving
tests.
Our
spectacular descent into Gudvangen pretty much set the scene for the
rest of the trip – that is – mindblowing scenery!
We
boarded a ferry at Gudvangen for a 2 hour trip through the
Naeroyfjorden to Flam.
Cameras
at the ready, we passed:
-
waterfall after waterfall cascading down the steep hills/mountains
into the fjord.
- picturesque
wee villages clinging to rockfaces
- vineyards
(of all things!)
all
with a grandiosely scenic backdrop of beautiful green mountains, jade
coloured sea-water and (through most of the day – it started to
rain later on) a dramatic blue and grey sky . Really, words can't
explain the beauty – the popularity of the trip (despite the
prohibitive costs) speaks for itself - i was lucky to actually get a
seat outside on the boat.
The
boat dropped us off at the tiny village of Flam which i explored with
a South Korean girl (sadly her name escapes me) in the pouring rain.
Despite the rain we managed to cover all the many souvenir shops and
discovered a really cool brewery/pub/restaurant. The brewery was
built all out of wood and the bar and sculptures all over the place
were really awesome. In the middle of the room there was a roaring
fire (oldschool) surrounded by ultra-mod furniture (probably from
Ikea) which was totally cluttered with stylish tasting trays. I was
annoyed that i don't drink beer.
After
a couple of Flam hours we boarded the Flamsbana (the steepest
normal-gauge railway in northern Europe) to Myrdal. The extremely
picturesque trip goes through a wild, gorgeous valley, past hiking
stations up to Kjosfossen waterfall – a raging torrent with a
convenient platform for tourists to take photos from. I was first
off the train at the waterfall and managed to actually get a photo
without any other people in it (a feat that became impossible in the
next few seconds). They even have a fake mythical, Siren-like
creature that sings on queue for the tourists. Very kitsch! After
passing through a few more cute villages we got to Myrdal (a station
of 867masl nothingness – though it's still pretty of course).
Then,
after 40 minutes of being crammed in to the station (it was still
raining and the train to Bergen was delayed) i was back on a train to
Oslo where i crashed for the night. Apart from a few quirky
characters i met on the train (2 old jokers, an American-Norwegian
and American-Swiss, & their partners – absolute crack-ups who
refused to leave the dining car where they were eating their
home-made sandwiches) the journey was uneventful.