Koh Pha Nang is a relatively small island, probably only 12x12 kilometres. Our maps and internet reviews showed that there were many beaches within walking distance from our hotel. We set out for one, but were not happy with the 10 or so feet of brown sand it had to offer. After about another hour of walking, up a couple big hills to boot, we decided that the island was best conquered by other means. We therefore rented a Honda 130cc scooter.
The scooter gave us so much freedom, and only cost 200 baht ($7), deposit 5000 baht ($150), and gas 150 baht ($5); although if you drive a minute outside town, the gas was 30 baht a litre as compared to the 50 baht per litre we paid. We drove north toward Chaloklum bay, passing an overpriced safari along the way. We only noticed the place from the large elephants chained in place outside the main gates. Although they appeared content to be eating, I doubt they like standing in one place for however long they are chained there.
After driving down a rough dirt road, we found the beach located on the north side of the island, WOW! It was beautiful with white sand and clear blue water. A majestic, quiet spot that one would expect from any vacation advertisement (which almost always looks better in the picture). The water was quite warm, maybe about 90-95 degree with pockets of warmer water from shallows going back out to sea. It appeared that the tide was on its way out and it was easy to walk out quite far before the water was over my knees. I enjoyed an over priced, but well worth it, beer. I could have stayed here forever, but Tim wanted to explore the rest of the island. He would do the rest of the days driving.
We drove around for about half an hour before finding another beach; they are difficult to find without prior knowledge (usually down an unmarked dirt road). We missed the second beach we were looking for and opted for a stop at a 7-11 for some mid afternoon nosh. 7-11 is a great store that consistently has good fast food (burgers and hotdogs) and cheap sandwiches. I inhaled a chicken burger almost before Tim could snap a picture.
The next beach, Ao Hin Kung, would have been far more beautiful if this was out first stop. The sand is brown and the water is not super clear, but the water was warm and the beach lined with beautiful palm trees. We did enjoy our time here though, walking out to a sand bar and meeting a couple from New Zealand and Germany. We exchanged stories for a couple minutes and took pictures for each other. Not sure if they met here, the internet...
We continued our counter-clockwise tour of the beaches and found many more, none of which compared to Chaloklum bay. During our exploration, we found an old, run down, no longer in operation beach resort that had cute tiki hut on stilts. The resort was directly on a beach and it was puzzling to us why a little place like this would go out-of-business. There was a white dude “squatting” in one of the huts closest to the beach and he appeared not to be phased that we were wander through his private oasis.
We made the journey all the way to the further southeast corner, Haad Rin, the location of the Full Moon Party. The trip was nerve racking on a bike with 3 or 4 hills with 20% grades. (sorry, didn't think to stop for a picture) You know on the highway when you see a “slow down, 7 % grade” and then you go down a steep hill. Let me tell you that 20% is crazy, especially on a bike that it feels like you are doing a pushup while managing the brakes (no foot brake) and then having a steep turn at the bottom. It was Tim's first time driving a motor scooter, but he managed to keep use safe, perhaps the stress made him lose a few more hairs off his head!
Haad Rin was a sh!t hole, run down from thousands of party seekers that have little to no respect for the place. We were not surprised to see the mobs of dirty youth, but they were also rude and inconsiderate, blocking roads and generally acting like they owned the place. The beaches were not impressive and they were also packed full of young revellers. How is it that one island can have a pristine white sand beach, that is deserted, while also have so many 'normal' beaches that are packed?!?
We made it back to Thong Sala (the town with our hotel), just before sunset. We made it back to the original beach from the morning and as we suspected was a lot bigger with the tide out. We found that this island is not really tourist accessible without a guide, either by tour group or taxi. However, with a little determination you can find your way, but transportation is a must and a good bit of patience also goes a long way...
