Sleepless in Sagres
PORTUGAL | Saturday, 1 September 2007 | Views [1335]
The weather here has been unbearably hot the past few days, literally
it's about 35 degrees just after sunrise, and by mid-day our skin is
cooking and the rubber sealant on our backpack zippers are bubbling and
melting. The water is too cold to hang out in without a wetsuit for
any long period of time, so we're reduced to just the occasional cold
plunges, about every 30 minutes or so, to keep the body temp in line.
The heat is also intensifying some of the more unique lifestyle
characteristics of southern Portugal. People siesta for very long
times during the days. In fact, by 11:00 a.m., stores have shut their
doors and owners are in their cool homes taking long mid-day siestas.
Some come to the beach to cool down, but others retreat to their
casas, drawing the white metal roll-down window covers against every
window in the house to keep out the scorching sun. Things start to
open back up around 3:00 p.m. or so, and and it's happy hour time by
5:00 p.m. People come back out to the streets as the sun sinks lower
over the horizon and pitchers of cerveja and sangria are now flowing
freely. By 8 or 9:00 p.m., the dining begins, a bit earlier than in
neighboring Spain. And while we're ready for be by 10:00 p.m., life
here is just getting started. The cars and people stream down the
streets until early hours of the morning, so strange for such a tiny,
sleepy beach town. Or perhaps we're just really getting old. But it's
not just the wild partiers or stifling, windless heat that's keeping us
up all night. The heat has also brought out those nasty, blood sucking
mosquitos that buss continuously around our heads at night. It's quite
a scene. We've shut all the windows to our killer ocean view room so
the mozzies don't come in, and there's no fan or A/C - similar climate
to San Diego coast - who really needs them? The room is a sweat box,
and we pull the sheets over our heads to avoid being bitten, and the
darn things still take chunks out of us. Every 10 minutes or so we're
flipping the lights on and using a towel to kill the mosquitos on the
ceilings and walls. It looks like a war zone, bits of mozzie and blood
spots on the walls, which we'll scrape off tomorrow after we're finally
able to let fresh air in. It's a good thing this isn't a Buddhist
country and therefore we are not feeling guilty for killing all the
mosquitoes. So no that we've had no sleep for the night, we slip into
the local town culture, and siesta most the day, getting ourselves out
and about when the heat cools down, and after we've caught up on a bit
of sleep.
Tags: Misadventures