Redemption Dinner: Deep Sea Delights
PORTUGAL | Thursday, 30 August 2007 | Views [1059]
After chatting with our surf shop owner buddy, Celios, we're keen to
try a real local Portuguese specialty seafood dish. The Algarve coast
is known for some very specific dishes; arroz con piexe (rice and fish
stew), caldeirada (big pot with all types of fish, shellfish, peppers,
potatoes, tomatoes, onions), and grilled whole fish of durado, seabass,
sardines and other delights. The dining experience is also very local
- these little mom and pop shops have the elder fisherman cooking
outside their home cum restaurant, on a homemade brick grill, fueled by
wood chips. Every night there's one little place that stands out; the
whole family - and we're talking generations here - hard at work. The
grandfather is smoking up large sardines, dorado, swordfish, seabass,
squid, and other fresh catches of the day. The grill is ablaze with
smoke and flames. The place is packed tonight and they have only one
two-seater table left, inside the tiny cramped bar/restaurant entryway.
The owner's daughter comes out to take our order and shows us the
remaining fresh catch. We both order up the grilled dorado. She
quickly shuffles the order to grandpa who is now wearing a baseball hat
and shades (it's 10:00 p.m.) so he doesn't singe his hair or eyelashes.
She serves us up some cool draught cerveja and brings out the typical
"couvert" which are like the nibbles you might expect to see served in
a US Restaurant - bread, dipping oil or spread, olives. In Portugal it
is culturally acceptable to decline the couvert, which might easily
cost you 4-12 Euros each (prices are rarely published and are a
surprise at the end of the meal bill). We politely decline these yummy
bits, as Portuguese servings of main portions are often so big that we
could easily split a main between the two of us. Our beers go down
well before our smoking fish arrives, so we order up a couple more, and
then comes the amazing two large whole fish, grilled up, eyes and all,
along with salad and potatoes. Very delicious, melt in your mouth
fish. This dinner from the sea is just what I needed to regain my
faith in the grilled seafood experience here in Portugal. The grilled
dorado was an excellent choice, and now I'll always order the whole
grilled fish, and avoid the grilled squid.
Tags: Food & eating