"You wan Nice Garden," expalined the concierge in just discernable English. I had asked for a place to eat Good Dim Sum which I knew was synonomous with Hong Kong.
Dim Sum by the way means "Touch the heart"
The moving neon strobed lights outside betrayed the quality of food I was about to eat.
Ranging between 1 and 2 quid were a range of 70 dim sums most of which were served steamed in their bamboo steamer. I ordered 5 hoping there'd be enough.
I was the only westener in the place which by 1pm was filled with the chatter of 400 people having lunch.
Staff wore an amusing array of outfits which signified their level of importance. The girls in the ice cream outfits and hats served the food from silver trolleys on wheel, the high rise of small bamboo steamers forming replications of the Hong Kong skyline. Next up were the Butlins red coat gang.(complete with gold buttons) They were mainly men and took the orders and wheeled tables all around the place. There were pink blazered women who scurried around taking parties of people to tables. My pink coat ushered me in using the flicks of her fingers. Finally and at the top of the hierarchy there were men and woimen in black suits or dresses. It appeared that their duty in life was to look imprtant. That was it. No one at all spoke English - but that was fine, I'd get by....
A plate of Choi sum arrived first. The greenest I've ever seen it. Steamed to perfection and cut into two sidtinct poarts. The thick end and the darker green spinachy part which hid the delicious yellow flowers.
3 lovingly wrapped pork and tripe dim sum then arrived which I was sure I didn't order but ate regardless. They were a delicious mix of soft and meaty with loads of porky flavour.
Next 3 jellyfish arrived. Well thats what they looked like. They were a cornish pasty shape but made from rice glutenh and so totally see through. Inside was shreeded Chinese lettuce and pices of tender chicken. mmmmmmm
Gingery steamed squid came next with only a cutting of chilli providing a lighht heat to the dish. Exceptional.
I was stuffed and could eat very little else when a piping hot soup was placed in front of me. In the murky liquid was a massive parcel inside which was numerous delicious sea creatures. Slices of scallop, whole prawns and unidentifiable sea creatures exposed themselves as my spoon pushed it open. There was also a slice of shittake bobbing in the broth and a bloody crab stick! (my only disappointment) Tasty.
I looked around me. There was commotion everywhere as diners tucked in and the coulourful brigade went about there duties. Earthenware pots contaning roughly chopped pieces of pork were being served up with lots of sauce. Rice and noodles were being wheeled out at an extrodinary rate and towers of dim sum placed on almost every table as the ice cream ladies did circles of the restaurant.
Simulateously, the bubblegum tasting green tea which every one is given when they sit down was being poured. Inevitably the large white pots from whence the tea came leaked leaving damp marks on the white tablecloths.
The bill? 7 quid and my first Dim Sum experience of Hong Kong.
Not a fortune cookie in sight.