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Have Blood. Will Travel Plans. They're more..... guidelines, really.

Photos: Baku

AZERBAIJAN | Sunday, 1 Aug 2010 | Photo Gallery


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city to city

AZERBAIJAN | Thursday, 29 Jul 2010 | Views [660]

each brick, each stone, each sidewalk step. each glance a lonesome story pieced together in a patchwork parade that staggers lost through the nighttime. where my head lays. tomorrow it feels like home. today it felt like a dream. surreal, souless and ... Read more >

Tags: on the road


that was a freakin' BEAR, man!

AZERBAIJAN | Friday, 23 Jul 2010 | Views [620]

It was just another typical day in the Azerbaijan Caucasus. A picturesque mountain village, fresh air, hospitality (no problem, just pay what you can) and a humble breakfast of bread, butter, honey and loads of tea. Some newly made Polish friends upgraded ... Read more >

Tags: bears, military post, trekking


sucking tea through sugar cubes

AZERBAIJAN | Sunday, 18 Jul 2010 | Views [1718]

I walk in the pouring rain, which brings a cavalcade of bad pop songs flooding into my brain. It belts down upon me with unleashed fury as I try to find shelter. I belt back, trying to rid myself of Belinda Carlisle, and stumble across a new Azeri friend;... Read more >

Tags: meeting locals


word of the day: Juxtaposition

AZERBAIJAN | Friday, 16 Jul 2010 | Views [294]

Maybe it's that New Country excitement one gets when crossing borders. Maybe it's being on the road again, the marshrutka dance, the wind trying to penetrate my hair, the grins and giggles at every turn. Maybe it's grappling with a new language, using ... Read more >


Loti: A Supra in a Cemetery

GEORGIA | Thursday, 1 Jul 2010 | Views [419]

Arriving in a new place, I initiate the customary wander through town, and chance upon the cemetery.  I have a soft spot for ambling through such overlooked establishments; cemeteries speak volumes to how societies view themselves.  Neat trimmings and ... Read more >

Tags: cemetery, supra


Photos: Samsari Ridge

GEORGIA | Sunday, 27 Jun 2010 | Photo Gallery

trekking Samsari ridge
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Tags: trekking


I wake up in the morning

GEORGIA | Thursday, 24 Jun 2010 | Views [752]

and i raise my weary head......I got an old coat for a pillow, and the earth was last night's bed........I don't know where i'm going, only God knows where i've been.......I'm a devil on the run, a six-gun lover, a candle in the wind..............Well, ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Got wood?

GEORGIA | Monday, 14 Jun 2010 | Views [656]

I hear about this place in the mountains when a fellow traveller quips "So I have a question for you, if you're a trekker, why the HELL are you not going to Svaneti?". well, a lack of guidebook sometimes means you need these tips, my friend.... Read more >

Tags: mestia, svaneti, trekking


Marco? Polo!

GEORGIA | Tuesday, 1 Jun 2010 | Views [631]

Meandering on foot, the best way to travel I feel as everything just moves to damned fast otherwise, the battered asphalt road in Turkey is transformed to a bruised and beaten dirt road in Georgia. The Guard at passport control suggests "Now we ... Read more >


The Land of Point

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [475]

years ago, there was a place called The Land of Point. That's because everything in the Land of Point, had one. The houses, the barns, the trees, even the people...... somebody has pulled the plug on the Earth, and it is slowly dripping away; it is ... Read more >


Episode 9: It Had To Happen

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [430]

We finally get rained upon. the weather turns just a little nasty to make camping on the ridge line in the rocks and snow, ready for A Final Ascent anything remotely close to what even the most devilish of masochists might call fun. then we lose the ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 8: Life above the trees

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [375]

we carefully prise ourselves free of the youth that have been feeding their curiosity with our bizarre speech and appearance, and begin another mountainous ascent. walking amongst ancient oaks, including the Volcanic Oak endemic to the region with some ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 7: Sleeping Village

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [370]

this setting is familiar; all the people are gone. there are no roads that bring the outside world here. carved Turkish script etched above a doorway and gigantic wells whisper that life may return. in time the forgotten fruit trees may be pruned and ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 6: Ahmet

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [396]

now, occasionally some characters appear in your story that just seem to write themselves.  Ahmet was just such a character. accustomed by now as we are to following the Red and White and deciphering the cryptic trail notes, we still find ourselves ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 5: Two days and one shepherd

TURKEY | Monday, 31 May 2010 | Views [456]

we climb from a "refreshing" bathe in the icy chill of waters feeding the Köprülü canyon that sets the shrinkage factor to maximum. then climb some more. and keep climbing through thick Juniper forests on the stiffest section of the trail thus ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 4: It's Pudding Time Children!!

TURKEY | Friday, 28 May 2010 | Views [366]

while The Next Day gets busy preparing its position for us across the horizon and through the walnut forests, our İntrepid Trekkers, our duo of deft decision makers, our protagonists in this preternatural travel-log have all Gone Native. we nestle into ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 3: All My Truckin'

TURKEY | Friday, 28 May 2010 | Views [383]

what happens when the track disappears amongst a disgusting haze of logged forest? Logged Forest that you expected to be Luscious Pine? why, you hitch a ride down off the mountain in the back of a Lorry, of course! a boring 5 hour walk is transformed ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


Episode 2: Geocaching without the Geo...

TURKEY | Tuesday, 25 May 2010 | Views [386]

...or the Cache. all the advice warned against it. the waymarks for this section of the trail are impossible to find, and virtually non-existent.  even with GPS you can't do it. or so they say.  bollocks to that. we disregard the GPS in favour of the ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


The Wend: Series 3, Episode 1

TURKEY | Friday, 21 May 2010 | Views [412]

One of Those A-Minor Days last series we saw our protagonist negotiate chariots of time, gallantly riding crests of indecision into distant lands. he was bathed in Ancient Wonders of historical and prehistorical persuasion. there were new challenges ... Read more >

Tags: trekking


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