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Gallery: India - Rishikesh

INDIA | Thursday, 10 Sep 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Rishikesh
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Getting to Rishikesh

INDIA | Wednesday, 26 Aug 2009 | Views [2497]

4 am starts are never fun, but I was very thankful that I had had the foresight to hire a porter to hawk my bag back down to the bus stand for me. The stand was packed and completely incomprehensible as usual but I asked someone who pointed out the ... Read more >

Tags: bus, river

Little Lhasa to Little Britain: Shimla

INDIA | Monday, 24 Aug 2009 | Views [2370]

The night bus to Shimla was “semi-deluxe”, which should be read as completely ordinary. It was however uneventful and I managed to snatch a few minutes sleep in between potholes and hairpin bends. It arrived literally at the crack of dawn – just past ... Read more >

Tags: history, mountains, temple, trekking

Am I in Tibet or India? Macleod Ganj

INDIA | Friday, 21 Aug 2009 | Views [6126] | Comments [2]

As I waited for the train to leave the platform a tall Sikh with a large sword sat opposite me and promptly lay down to sleep. I'm no expert but it didn't look like the deadliest or most ostentatious of swords although, along with his clothes and turban, ... Read more >

Tags: cooking, live music, mountains, religion, temple, yoga

Gallery: India - Macleod Ganj & Shimla

INDIA | Thursday, 13 Aug 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Macleod Ganj & Shimla
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Gallery: India - Amritsar & Atarri Border

INDIA | Monday, 10 Aug 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Amritsar & Atarri Border
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A fight, a family, a delay and a doctor

INDIA | Monday, 10 Aug 2009 | Views [1164] | Comments [1]

I knew it was going to an interesting journey when the fight developed as the crowd on the platform pushed forward, preventing those on the train from getting off. Nowhere seems to be immune from this phenomenon. And in India there's no point in waiting ... Read more >

Tags: train

Rats in the temple, camels in the lab - Bikaner

INDIA | Sunday, 9 Aug 2009 | Views [2503]

  Many guesthouses in India have telephones but seem rarely to deem it appropriate to answer them. Thus I arrived in Bikaner train station undecided as to where to go because nowhere would pick up the phone. As I was giving the hotel one more chance ... Read more >

Tags: camel, rat, temple

Gallery: India - Jodphur & Bikaner

INDIA | Saturday, 8 Aug 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Jodphur & Bikaner
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Jodphur: an unexpected kite festival and an engagement party

INDIA | Friday, 7 Aug 2009 | Views [2107] | Comments [1]

Having no hotel booked in Jodphur the rickshaw wallah took me to a place in the back streets. I didn't feel confident that Pushp would be a good place. Why would someone name their guesthouse after a push up? In fact, Pushp is named for the ... Read more >

Tags: family, festival, fort, party

Gallery: India - Udaipur & Jaisalmer

INDIA | Thursday, 6 Aug 2009 | Photo Gallery

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Camels and gypsies in the Jaisalmer desert

INDIA | Wednesday, 5 Aug 2009 | Views [5106] | Comments [2]

The combination of sleeping aids did their job, much to my surprise, but I found myself waking up in Jaisalmer to the din of hundreds of touts and rickshaw wallahs shouting in through the bus windows. I never enjoy this part of travelling but you just ... Read more >

Tags: camel, desert, fort, tour

Hinduism, Hindi and meditation guitar: Udaipur

INDIA | Friday, 31 Jul 2009 | Views [4290]

Udaipur is a picturesque city set on a lake where a large part of Octopussy, the James Bond movie, was filmed. I had booked rooms in the Udai Niwas hotel right beside the main temple, in the middle of the old town. Even from the rickshaw ride into town ... Read more >

Tags: history, lake, lesson, music, religion, sun

Gallery: India - Mandu & Indore

INDIA | Tuesday, 28 Jul 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Mandu & Indore
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That's not our train. Is it?

INDIA | Tuesday, 28 Jul 2009 | Views [2974]

It was an auspicious start to the day. As I ate breakfast there was a beautiful hindu song on the radio with a hypnotic, repetitive mantra. I had been reading “Eat, Pray, Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert.   The author had been struggling to concentrate during ... Read more >

Tags: stupid, train

Why Mandu?

INDIA | Monday, 27 Jul 2009 | Views [4594] | Comments [1]

The unmistakable stench of a combination of human excrement and decaying rubbush hit me as soon as I alighted the train. It was only a three hour train ride. My first, in Sleeper class was just fine but not quite as well equipped as AC class. Khandwa ... Read more >

Tags: bus, fort, monsoon, random, traffic jam

Sometimes one doctor just isn't enough: Jalgoan

INDIA | Saturday, 25 Jul 2009 | Views [1344]

The Plaza Hotel on Station Road, Jalgoan was so clean I felt I could have eaten my dinner off the bedroom floor. In India that's really saying something. The manager explained that they are Jain people so cleanliness is very important to them. I silently ... Read more >

Tags: doctor, hotel

Captain Caveman and the mini Taj Mahal

INDIA | Thursday, 23 Jul 2009 | Views [6025] | Comments [1]

Expecting the unexpected and prepared for anything I was in Mumbai's hectic CST station a full two hours before the train was scheduled to leave. I plonked my conspicuous rucksack down in the middle of the station and sat on it, joining the crowds ... Read more >

Tags: cave, monsoon, tour

Mind your ears it's Mumbai!

INDIA | Tuesday, 21 Jul 2009 | Views [5617]

The sound of heavy rain on plastic woke me up. I was disoriented at first, wondering first where Claire was and second where I was. Then it clicked. London (or quite possibly in a holding pattern around the M25). Mumbai. I looked out the window to ... Read more >

Tags: cave, crazy people, religion, scam, tour, train

Gallery: India - Mumbai & Maharashtra

INDIA | Tuesday, 21 Jul 2009 | Photo Gallery

India - Mumbai & Maharashtra
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Gallery: Singapore

SINGAPORE | Sunday, 19 Jul 2009 | Photo Gallery

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India begins with I

INDIA | Sunday, 19 Jul 2009 | Views [1064] | Comments [1]

India was always going to be an experience of sensory overload, but not just for the usual culture shock-related reasons – the key to the beginning of my Indian travels is contrast. I was coming from Singapore, a model of modernity, order and efficiency, ... Read more >

Tags: city, monsoon

Slings, sleaze and au revoir in Singapore

SINGAPORE | Sunday, 19 Jul 2009 | Views [6724] | Comments [3]

It was long before dawn when the nicest coach in the world crossed the bridge over to the island state of Singapore.When we saw the customs complex it was immediately clear that this would be a lot more organised than anywhere else in SE asia. It was ... Read more >

Tags: camera, city, fast food, fast food, island, live music, massage

Deep thoughts and tall towers in KL

MALAYSIA | Wednesday, 15 Jul 2009 | Views [6126]

We turned up back at the Mayview Glory in KL well before 6am. They were full so we couldn't check in till someone else checked out. Too tired to be imaginative and overwhelmed by the menu in the expansive cafe next door we guiltily settled for a ... Read more >

Tags: camera, religion, shopping, sightseeing, taxi, tower

Gallery: Malaysia

MALAYSIA | Saturday, 11 Jul 2009 | Photo Gallery

KL and the Perenthian Islands
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