One of my
favourite places to trek in Europe is around Loutro a village/resort in
district of Sfakia on Crete’s South Coast. It nestles around a small bay, the
only natural harbour on the South Coast and there has been a settlement here
since Roman times. Nowadays only a few hundred people live here, and the place
is almost deserted in the winter months. One of Loutros main attractions is
that you can only get there by foot or by boat, the foothills of the Lefka Ori
- the White Mountains, rise up directly behind the village, effectively cutting
it off. As well as making it a very quiet and pleasant place, it is convenient
base for some great trekking, particularly as it’s on the E4 trans European
walking path. I have been coming here since 1988, walking my favourite routes
many times as well as exploring the rest of the E4 and the Lefka Ori.
I have
described some of easier trekking routes around Loutro, which I first wrote up
for the Lonely Planet guide to Crete (3rd and 4th
editions) but I have expanded and revised these online versions.
Two Easy Walks
Loutro has a
small pebbly beach which can get quite crowded at weekends. Luckily there are
here are two good beaches to the west and east of Loutro, both about an hours
walk away. Both have small tavernas where you can food and drink, and have a
boat service to Loutro if you can’t face the walk back, which is how the
majority of visitors get to and from them.
Loutro to Marble Beach (Marmara Bay)
Marble Beach
is a small beach at the mouth of the Aradhena gorge which lies 3 km to the west of Loutro and takes about
an hour to walk to. There is almost no shade on the trail but there are
places to stop and get drinks. The route starts in ally next to the Hotel
Dhaskaloyiannis, in Loutro and climbs up to a gate and the top of the headland.
To your right are the ruins of the sizeable Venetian fort. The Venetians
scattered forts all along this coast the remains of which can be discovered in even
very remote spots. The headland jutting in to sea is the site of ancient
Finikas, a major town in Roman times, but there is nothing left to see now.
Bare left and
follow the signs to Phoenix, note the black and yellow paint marks and poles
which waymark the E4 path. Walk over the top of the headland bearing west until
you are looking down on the next bay which contains the small settlement of Phoenix.
The route now descends down a rough path to a junction with a sign to Phoenix.
Take the right hand path that goes around the houses and which leads up to a
dirt road. Cross the road and head up hill to the corner of a fence where there
is a path junction with a very battered sign to Livaniana, which is the village you can see on the hillside above you.
Bare left and head towards the gate in the fence.
The route descends down to Likos which is just a few houses, and is the
place to stay if you want to get away from it all. You may be surprised to see
a few cars here and in Finix. Roads were pushed through from Anopoli in 1996
which has led to some development particularly in Finix, although it must be a
nerve racking drive and not the place to bring the hire car.
The trail now passes by the tavernas on the beach, including one called
the ‘Small Paradise’ which is lovely spot for a drink. Walk past the last house
and head towards the large cave and black/yellow paint markers at the end of
the beach. You now climb up to a rock arch, care is needed here as the rock is
very polished, (especially if you are coming the other way) and the easiest way
not always apparent. Walk on with care as there is sheer drop to the sea on
your left.
Shortly afterwards there is another short climb, then the path begins to
open up. You will pass a junction with a path on your right which goes up to Livaniana,
you continue on until you reach an open hillside. The path then descends
easily, down to Marble Beach.
The beach is fairly small and pebbly but it’s a great place to swim.
There are caves to explore and an area of rock beside the main beach is colonised
by nudists. You can rent sun lounges and umbrellas and when you’ve had enough
of the beach you can retreat to taverna on the headland above which does very
good meals. You can even stay here in their very simple (no electricity) rooms.
There is regular boat to take people back to Loutro each afternoon, if you
don’t want to walk back.
Loutro to Sweetwater Bay
This is a
very easy walk with no climb involved, about 3km distance and which takes
about an hour. The path begins on the eastern edge of Loutro, ask for
directions for the path as it starts behind the houses. You should end up at a
gate with a small shrine and goat pen just beyond it. This is also the junction
for the walk up to Anopoli. You are walking directly ahead along the coast, a
little further on the path has a short climb up over a small spur at the bottom
of which the village burns some of its rubbish.
Continue on for about an hour, the path is
obvious all the way along. At one point it descends to the sea and a small
beach if you fancy a swim. Just before it reaches Sweetwater the path crosses a
headland with the small church of Timios Stavros on it. The concrete benches
are for when people come here on his feast day. The path then descends steeply
to the bay.
Sweetwater
Beach is so named because there is fresh(ish) water here but you have to dig
for it, as it’s around half a meter down. You will see rock pools that have
been dug out by the semi permanent residents who live here, they are quite
possessive of their water so don’t stick your water bottle in their pools. The
beach is all pebbles and there is very little shade, though the taverna now
rents out umbrellas. It’s also a nudist beach, so feel free to take your
clothes off. Because there is water
here, some people live on the beach all summer long, heading into Loutro of
Sfakia only for provisions.
Try to avoid
being too close to the cliff face, as stones do come down, particularly if it’s
been raining and in the Spring and Autumn. One local told me that people run
along this beach if they have to come this way out of season, because of the
risk of falling rock.
When I first
came here in 1988, an English man was selling food and drinks out of a cool
box; by the mid nineties a hut was built on a concrete block which is still
there selling drinks and simple meals. There is also a regular boat service to
Loutro, which leaves in the late afternoon.
If you want
to continue onto Sfakia, pick up the trail at the end of the beach. The path
now continues across a large rock fall, which involves some climbing around,
although it is waymarked. The route then climbs upwards until you are walking
on ledge which has been cut out of a cliff face. Soon afterwards you join the
tarmac road that goes up to Anopoli from Sfakia. Sfakia is 2.5km further on
along the coast. Loutro to Sfakia, non stop will take about 2hrs.
Loutro to
Marble Beach via Livaniana (3 ½ hours) 6.5 kms.
An
alternative route from Loutro to Marble Beach that goes via the small mountain
village of Livaniana and the lower reaches of the Aradhena gorge. This walk
takes around 3 ½ hours and is 6.5 km long.
Take the path
beside the Hotel Daskalogiannis up to the Venican fort. Follow the yellow/black
E4 paint spots over the headland to Phoenix. As you descend there is a sign to
Phoenix, take the right hand path that goes around the houses. Cross the dirt
road and head directly up the hill towards Livaniana in the distance. At the
top of the hill there is a junction with one path signposted to Livaniana.
Follow the blue paint marks, the path now heads uphill and crosses the road again
before entering a small gorge.
The old mule
path then traverses up the gorge and links up the road again on the outskirts
of the village. (One hour) 200 meters on
is a simple taverna that sells cold drinks.
When I first
passed through Livaniana in 1989 the village falling into ruins and was only
inhabited by a few old people who moved like black ghosts amongst the derelict
houses. All the young people had left for the towns. It’s notable feature was
the remains of an enormous olive press, which is still there. In 1996 the road
to the outside world arrived and this has allowed some redevelopment like the
taverna and renovation of some of the houses.
To continue,
walk past the taverna and up the hill into the village aiming for the church at
the top. Walk past the church, following the blue spots to a fence where there
is a sign pointing to Marble Beach and Anopoli. Follow the sign to Marble
Beach, the blue spots will take you around the field and along the edge of the
old olive terrace. After 100 meters you come to a gap in a fence, from where
you can look down into the Aradhena Gorge.
The olive
terraces you now see before you are hundreds of years old and from these
generations of villagers extracted a living. After been nurtured by tens of
thousands of hours of back breaking work, they have now been left to
nature.
Turn left and
follow the blue paint beside the fence, the path then lead you down towards the
floor of the gorge. (35 mins) At one point you are directly under the gorge
wall so watch out for falling stones and hurry through this section. If you
look above you, you may see Bonelli’s Eagles riding the thermals. These large
raptors nest on the gorge walls in this area and are commonly seen.
At the bottom
there is sign up to Livaniana, beside a large tree. Turn left here down the
gorge towards the sea and Marble Beach. After a few minuets you will pass a
trough where you can collect water. The route now crosses an area where the
gorge is filled large boulders. Often the path is not obvious but if route
seems particularly difficult, then you have probably gone the wrong way. At one
point the path reaches a sheer drop and turns left through some trees. Red and
blue waymarking paint spots mark the way, with the red being the most reliable.
As the path levels out it passes close to a sheer cliff, again move quickly
here as there are goats above who can dislodge rocks; you will pass the remains
of goats which have fallen off. The last few hundred meters are flat and easy
and you then arrive at Marble Beach and its welcome taverna. 1 ½ km (45 mins).
To return to
Loutro, follow the E4 path that starts behind the beach and the yellow/black
paint spots. After half an hour you reach the hamlet of Likkos. Walk through
the tavernas then follow the path (blue paint spots) which lead over the
headland where you meet the path to Livaniana.
Loutro to
Anopoli and the Aradena Gorge.
7km (9km
if walking back to Loutro on the E4)
(5 – 6 hrs).
A strenuous,
full days walk, which takes in an authentic country village, and spectacular
gorge with a beach at the end of it.
Make an early
start (I usually get going about 0700) as all the hard effort is at the beginning,
a 680 meter climb from the sea up to the plain of Anopoli. The path starts
behind the Kri Kri taverna in Loutro, follow the path up to a fence with a new
metal gate. On the other side is small shrine and goat pen. A path continues
along the coast which leads to Sweetwater Bay (see Two easy routes). You turn
left here and follow the good path which traverses back and fro across the
hillside. After twenty minutes you will reach a junction by a small gorge, this
path leads to Phoenix, you bare right here and continue climbing. Your
objective is the small chapel you can see high above you.
After one
hour you reach a dirt road with bee hives on it, cross it and keep going until
you meet it again higher up. Then turn right and walk 100 meters until you reach
a cistern on your left where you pick up the path again. At this point I am
usually racing to beat the sun which is just over the horizon.
When walking
this route in Summer 08 a new development was a goat fence that had been strung
across the path. Turn left when you meet it and continue up the hill on a newly
made path which soon reaches the original path higher up, turn left again when
you reach it. Continue walking up, you are aiming for the point below the
walled compound you can see above you. At the top (1 ½ hours, 4.7km) you have a
fantastic view of the coast and the plain of Anopoli with the Lefha Ori
mountains behind. Follow the tarmac road, which leads to the town square at the
centre of Anopoli. (20 mins, 800 meters)
Anopoli is a
small country town which sees few tourists. This is a place where you will
still see old men dressed in black with large boots and hair nets, although
they are dieing out fast. There are a couple of tavernas where you can get a
simple breakfast and stay the night if you really want to get away from it all.
The easiest
way to get to the Aradena gorge is simply to follow the road. Walk on following
the road sign to Aradena. You soon reach the hamlet of Aghios Dhimitrios which
has a shop and small guest house. Walk through the hamlet, the road soon
switches back on itself by a large sheep fold.
Just as the ruins of Aradena come into view. 1
½ kms (20 mins) look for a small charin and path on the right side of the road
marked with faded blue spots. This is just after a bend. Walk along the path,
it points directly at Aradena, until you reach a small shrine and the start of
the path that traverses down into the gorge. Until the bailey bridge was built
in 1986, the only way to get to Aradena and Ayios Ionnis further on was to walk
down into the gorge and up the other side. The bridge is now used for bungee
jumping.
At the bottom
of the gorge turn left and walk on passing under the road bridge which is 130
meters above you. After 20 mins you will reach a wooden fence and the start of
a staircase cut into the side of the gorge, complete with handrail - follow it
with care as the path is not in good condition. After 300 meters you descend
into the gorge again.
In the past
the Aradena Gorge was a tough proposition as getting around this section meant
scrambling using fixed ropes and ladders. The staircase was built in the mid
nineties to make it more accessible, with the aim of popularising it for
groups, which has not really happened because of poor transport connections,
you still have a fair hike when you get to the bottom. Thankfully Aradena is
still a wilderness walk, unlike the Imbos gorge near Sfakia which when I first
did it in the late eighties was rarely walked. Now it is an ‘alternative’
Samaria, with ticket offices, a collection of tavernas at the bottom and coach
loads of walkers marching down it every day.
Continue down
the gorge following the cairns and faded red paint spots as the path passes
over rock falls. Just before an area of vegetation you will see blue paint
marks which indicate a path up to Livaniana and on right side of the gorge the
same blue paint marking a path up to Aghios Ioanis. Walk on down the gorge
until you reach a second junction just below a hillside with olive terraces.
There is a large tree here and a sign for the taverna in Livaniana, which is
above you.
Walk on and
after a few minuets you will pass a trough where you can collect water. The
route now crosses an area where the gorge is filled with large boulders. Often
the path is not obvious but if route seems particularly difficult, then you
have probably gone the wrong way. At one point the path reaches a sheer drop
and turns left through some trees. Red and blue waymarking paint spots mark the
way, with the red being the most reliable. As the path levels out it passes
close to a sheer cliff, again move quickly here as there are goats above who
can dislodge rocks; you will pass the remains of those who fell over. The last
few hundred meters are flat and easy and you then arrive at Marble Beach and
its welcome taverna. The gorge length is 5.5km from the bridge to the sea and
the walk should take 2 to 2.5 hrs.
If you got up
early, after a swim it’s probably time for lunch. A boat from the taverna backs to Loutro in the late afternoon or you can walk back, see Two easy
routes.
Practicalities
Crete is a
tough environment, particularly in summer, which in many ways is part of its
appeal. Most of these routes are fairly rugged and it helps to have a decent
pair of boots. Although on these treks you are never to far from civilisation
you must carry some water, I work on an average of one litre per hours walking.
You can usually buy more along the way. Also essential is a hat and plenty of
blocker. Try and get the climbs done as early in the day as possible, slogging
up in the midday sun is no fun.
Try and tell
somebody, such as your guest house owner, where you are going and when you
expect to be back. A twisted ankle could be a major problem if you run out of
water. On some routes like Aradena don’t expect too many people to be passing
by.
Maps. Maps of
Greece used to be a state secret as they always imagined that the Turks would
use them to invade the country. With the advent of Google Earth you can count
the hangers at the Air Force base in Chania, making restricting maps a bit
pointless. The Greek map publisher Anavasi now covers the Lefka Ori on three
excellent maps to a scale of 1:25,000. On one side is a topographic map and on
the reverse the same area showing the trekking routes including distances and
walking times. The routes above are all covered on sheet 11.11. These maps can
be bought locally or from Standfords in London.
GPS. The
Anavasi maps use the Greek Geodetic Reference System. I took a GPS unit to Crete
for the first time this year and tried to set my unit up to use the Greek
system. This is extremely complicated (even with expert advice) and I didn’t manage
to do it. Of course you can still use the lat/long coordinates and they are
marked on the maps. On the walks described, a GPS really isn’t necessary, a
good eye for the path most trodden and paint spots are a better instrument for
finding the way ahead.
See pictures of landmarks along the route
