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Vagabonding Our time being 'of no fixed abode'.

Goa - Palolem

INDIA | Wednesday, 7 November 2007 | Views [945]

We took sleeper train to Margao and then waited for a train to Canacona. Getting on the train was the scariest thing I’ve done in a while, everyone pushing, standing on each other etc, and with my pack I was at their mercy. I was shoved and pummeled and it wasn’t fun. Nick secured a seat and then a man with a baton was shouting through the window to everyone to get out as it was reserved seating (which we hadn’t paid for). All the locals legged it but we didn’t know where to go. A local man told me not to be frightened and looked at our tickets and explained things a bit. More shoving took place and next thing I felt a lady stroking my arm gently as she could see I was finding it all a bit stressful. We then sat with her and her husband (they’re English but she’s of Indian descent) and had a nice time with them for the 45 minutes the train took. We paid the conductor the demanded bakeesh (bribe/fine) and he allowed us to stay were we were. We’d paid 10 rupees each for the ticket and the bakeesh was 50! But we were beyond caring.

We got an autorickshaw to a beach hut place at Palolem prepared to spend too much for the first night then shop around. It was a pleasant place with little piggies wandering around and all hosted by the family (they wander past, you ask for a coffee, they bring it, it’s charged to your room etc). So it was easy and when we shopped around the next day we found we’d got a pretty good deal (450 rupees per night with attached bathroom – that’s about 7 quid, but it’s very basic). After three nights there though I became frustrated with the noise the other guest were making at all hours and I wasn’t sleeping well enough because of it.

So we went to the effort of moving (in the extreme heat) but last night wasn’t so good either – animals this time. So Nick reckons he’s going to order the chicken tonight at the attached restaurant, 6 of them so hopefully that will get rid of some of the noise!


Overall Palolem is beautiful, hot and the sea is warm. There are bar/restaurants all along and it’s not as remote as we’d like. Things are developing fast here so it’s no surprise it’s reasonably packed now. We’re not sure how long we’ll stay, we’re doing very little, just trying to sleep and keep cool. We can wander 10 metres to the bar restaurant overlooking the beach so that’s nice. For the first time this trip I feel like what I’m doing isn’t more effort  than going to work each day. It’s also good here to chat to people about travel plans and get tips. There are lots of Nepalese people working here. And LOTS of Israeli tourists which I’ll make no further comment about.

Tags: On the Road



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