18 January -- Darjeeling
This morning we got a wake-up call and coffee at 3:30 am and our guys picked us up at 4 am to drive the 15k to Tiger Hill-- the highest point in the area-- in order to see the sunrise on Mt. Kanchenjunga, and if clear also see Everest, the 3 Sisters, and other assorted peaks. I must say that at about 5:15, after having been there about 45 minutes, we were both wondering WTF.
Once the horizon started to glow then we understood why we were there. Others have waxed poetic and written far better than I ever will about the beauty and majesty of such sights, so I am not going to say anything except IT WAS WORTH IT. The early morning, the bone-chilling cold, whatever other inconveniences we experienced. IT WAS WORTH IT.
Rewind... Yesterday we drove over from Kalimpong (45k), and on the way we stopped at the "Floriculture Project at Rungbee Division" where they are growing cymbidium and vegetables (and a few other flowers) in hot houses. It's a new venture and we were the first non-Indians to visit. We stopped there because it ended up being on our way to Darjeeling because the main road was closed-- and our guide knew about it because his in-laws were instrumental in getting the place started. There are many former quinine plantations in the area which are now non-producing (because there are now better malaria meds) and thousands of people are needing work and something else to grow. The orchids were amazing (as were the tomatoes).
We were delivered to our hotel-/ Windamere in time for "luncheon" and upgraded to a suite ("The Princess of Siam). The property was converted to a hotel in 1939 and is rather suspended in that era. It's an amazing place with a history (just visit their web site to get a flavour of what it's like, www.windamerehotel.com). We are finding it delightful (omg the FOOD), and are encountering interesting people as well.
For instance, Huw (pronounced "hue", it's Welsh) and Sarah, who are driving from London to Australia. That's right, driving -- ferries and ships are allowed though. They got here through Belgium, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, and took a turn up through Nepal after doing Rajastan. They are in a 23 year old Land Cruiser (that has a tent on the top!). After going around the Indian sub continent, they will take a 6 month break and then resume by driving thru southeast Asia and then taking a ship from Singapore to Australia, where they will then drive the perimeter from Darwin to Cairns. Lest you think this is adventurous, they rode the four corners of the USA in the early nineties on motorcycles. They are my age-- 55.
Back to yesterday-- after lunch we took a visit to the Zoological park (where the wolves posed for us and tried to get friendly with Anna). It houses the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which trains guides, Trekkers, and climbers. HMI also has a nice museum (mostly Everest) and some interesting exhibits with models of the mountains.
This morning (after resting and breakfast), we took a return trip on the tourist part of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (in other words "a joy ride on the toy train"). Narrow gauge (2') railway with a tiny steam engine (fired by coal). I won't elaborate on the history as you can read that for yourself should you be interested (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darjeeling_Himalayan_Railway). It was relaxing and fun after our early morning.
After resting this afternoon, and some great conversation at tea, we viewed a documentary called "Other Times, Other Places" which is essentially a conversation about the area' s history and the heyday of the Raj (which is what they call the period of British rule). It's complicated.
We thought we might have dinner out but the place we want to try closed at 7:30 pm (so we will have lunch there tomorrow). We did get a good brisk walk there and back which helped us prepare for the food coma of eating here at W.
Tomorrow the 3rd 'T' -- TEA. We'll visit Happy Valley Tea Plantation (as well as a Temple/Monastery and the Tibetan Refugee handicraft store). Up here they say you have to do the three Ts: Tiger Hill at dawn, Train ride, and Tea garden. We're gonna shop, too.
