5 January -- Ahmedabad
Before I even start let me say that our friendly and easy-going guide, Noor Rehman Shaikh, has a graduate degree in history and post grad work in English. He is a practicing Muslim and extremely knowledgeable about the different religious traditions here in India (and the world, actually) and how they all connect.
This morning before going to the Calico Museum we visited the gorgeous Swaminanayan Temple (Hindu--1850) and also walked through a 'pol' which is essentially a neighborhood with narrow 3-4 story shared wall houses, narrow winding lanes and an outdoor plaza for gatherings and weddings. Ahmedabad has over 600 pols in the old part of the city.
Then-- the coolest thing ever... Dada hair ni vav -- which is a step well from 1498 where the caravans on the Silk Road used to stop.
At the Calico Museum of Textiles (you can read all about it at www.calicomuseum.org) we lucked out because not one, but two (2!) textile professors were in our group and they knew each other. One is currently over here on a Fulbright studying ikaat techniques, and the other was on sabbatical from the University of Washington. It was very enjoyable and enlightening to follow them around.
Ate a Gujariti lunch at the Green House- which is at a heritage hotel, the House of MG.
We had a full afternoon walking through the center of the old city which is a huge long plaza filled with "hawkers" selling what we think are factory seconds of everything from sneakers to clothing. The Jami Mosque (1423) provided a calm respite. Behind the mosque is the tomb of the founder of the city and on our walk from that we went to a wonderful fabric shop. Our guide made friends with the owner and we were offered tea! More walking through the food and spice markets, and the extremely crowded (totally packed) fabric market. After dark, we went to the night market in the newer part of the city- fun & colorful.
We are now chillin' at the hotel, eating the leftovers from lunch, and contemplating how to get packed again for leaving at 9 am.
Tomorrow's agenda: drive to Udaipur (4-5 hours) with a temple/village stop along the way. Rest up for another full day after that.
So far, so good. We have been very diligent and careful with good and water. The Steri-pen has been quite the curiosity
