Travels with Janice

Photos: The Dogs of India

mlodius — Wed, 15 Nov 2023 17:43:00 GMT

We kept taking pictures of dogs so here they are

Photos: Agra Fort & Taj Mahal

mlodius — Wed, 15 Nov 2023 16:36:00 GMT

We went to India!

mlodius — Mon, 2 Feb 2015 12:05:00 GMT

So, I have been back home in Ukiah a week and it's taking longer than I thought to recover from the jet lag and time change. I pretty much stopped writing on about January 20 and just started hanging out "in the moment" and enjoying every last minute.

While I am not sad to be home (quite happy, in fact), I am still a bit disoriented still and maybe a little too much "in my head" reflective.

Photos are a work in progress and most likely will be for awhile -- I am slowly, ever so slowly, getting them semi-edited and posted. I took more photos that I have EVER taken. Anywhere. But at the very least, they are all now saved on both my computer and backed up on the external hard drive.

So, maybe the shortest post ever. But I promise to write the rest as soon as I've had (more) rest.

Meanwhile, back to school, choir, Music Together, and life in general. Thanks, Anna, for traveling with me. It was a blessed experience.

Photos: Floriculture project at Rungbee division

mlodius — Fri, 30 Jan 2015 07:41:00 GMT

New project on the road from Kalimpong to Darjeeling

Music -- the "way in"

mlodius — Tue, 20 Jan 2015 01:04:00 GMT

19 January Darjeeling but writing about Kalimpong (15-16 Jan)

Breakfast at Windamere. Sitting here enjoying music that is very similar to listening to Spencer Brewer. In the moment as much as I can be. Sunshine, a stunning view over the northeast side of the mountains, a warm dining room, and the best coffee I have had since visiting Kona area on Hawaii.

I realized that I have not written down anything about Kalimpong, where we thoroughly enjoyed our day out.

Most importantly, we visited the Gandhi Ashram School. It was established and is run by the Jesuits and uses MUSIC-- specifically violin and the teaching of western music-- to reach the students. Why? Because "it is the way in". The students are about half orphans and half from the poorest families in the area. At the school they get meals, sports and recreation, and education. FREE. The principal visits each and every home to make sure they qualify (apparently lots of parents want their children to attend but perhaps aren't poor enough). Imagine that. Music is the "way in".

School is not on session at the moment, but we had a nice tour and talk from one if the volunteers (a young woman from Germany who is there for a year), and then we were able to hear a former student (who is also volunteering for the next few months before he leaves for University) play a cello duet with the young woman. There was a piano, so I got to play with him, too (The Swan). The universal language :)

This school gives hope and opportunity to children and young people who are born without either. There are many former students who have gone on to University -- and others who are teaching music elsewhere, even in Europe.

Here's the Wikipedia page (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gandhi_Ashram_School). If you google them, you will also find a Facebook page and videos as well as a trailer for a documentary that was made about them. I wish they had been in session so I could have heard them play.

Another cool place we visited was a small, family owned handmade Himalayan paper factory. Much of the handmade paper items found across the country in the markets a bazaars are constructed with the paper made from a plant in the Daphne family grows as a wild shrub in this area. (We are guessing that there are many such small "factories" around here.) This one produced 300-400 large (36" x 48" ?) sheets per day when it's sunny. The operation was about the size of the average home basement and backyard. Small. I know they also did cutting and dyeing there -- not sure about putting together of items like envelopes and pads. Maybe they do that upstairs or maybe the next door neighbor does that. Anna got good video of the women putting the pulp on the screens and stacking them to dry, and when I googled "handmade paper Kalimpong" a YouTube video popped up as well. We bought paper and envelopes :)

Other things we did in Kalimpong: walked through the local markets (it's not really touristy); went up to the highest local point for the view; enjoyed visiting the Mangal Dham Hindu temple which is dedicated to the worship of Lord Krishna (they also do lots of good work for the community); walked through St. Theresa Catholic Church built in the late 1800s; spent a little time at the Pineview cactus nursery (!) -- a large exotic imported cactus collection in hot houses.

Our hotel, the Himalaya, is quite famous in the area. Wonderfully old and shabby (there are some newer sections), beastly cold room, amazing food and service, view of the Kanchenjunga peaks from the porch and our window. We enjoyed our stay but are quite happy to be staying in a place that has heaters in every room plus working fireplaces.

Orchids, Tiger Hill, Toy Train

mlodius — Sun, 18 Jan 2015 23:00:00 GMT

18 January -- Darjeeling

This morning we got a wake-up call and coffee at 3:30 am and our guys picked us up at 4 am to drive the 15k to Tiger Hill-- the highest point in the area-- in order to see the sunrise on Mt. Kanchenjunga, and if clear also see Everest, the 3 Sisters, and other assorted peaks. I must say that at about 5:15, after having been there about 45 minutes, we were both wondering WTF.

Once the horizon started to glow then we understood why we were there. Others have waxed poetic and written far better than I ever will about the beauty and majesty of such sights, so I am not going to say anything except IT WAS WORTH IT. The early morning, the bone-chilling cold, whatever other inconveniences we experienced. IT WAS WORTH IT.

Rewind... Yesterday we drove over from Kalimpong (45k), and on the way we stopped at the "Floriculture Project at Rungbee Division" where they are growing cymbidium and vegetables (and a few other flowers) in hot houses. It's a new venture and we were the first non-Indians to visit. We stopped there because it ended up being on our way to Darjeeling because the main road was closed-- and our guide knew about it because his in-laws were instrumental in getting the place started. There are many former quinine plantations in the area which are now non-producing (because there are now better malaria meds) and thousands of people are needing work and something else to grow. The orchids were amazing (as were the tomatoes).

We were delivered to our hotel-/ Windamere in time for "luncheon" and upgraded to a suite ("The Princess of Siam). The property was converted to a hotel in 1939 and is rather suspended in that era. It's an amazing place with a history (just visit their web site to get a flavour of what it's like, www.windamerehotel.com). We are finding it delightful (omg the FOOD), and are encountering interesting people as well.

For instance, Huw (pronounced "hue", it's Welsh) and Sarah, who are driving from London to Australia. That's right, driving -- ferries and ships are allowed though. They got here through Belgium, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, and took a turn up through Nepal after doing Rajastan. They are in a 23 year old Land Cruiser (that has a tent on the top!). After going around the Indian sub continent, they will take a 6 month break and then resume by driving thru southeast Asia and then taking a ship from Singapore to Australia, where they will then drive the perimeter from Darwin to Cairns. Lest you think this is adventurous, they rode the four corners of the USA in the early nineties on motorcycles. They are my age-- 55.

Back to yesterday-- after lunch we took a visit to the Zoological park (where the wolves posed for us and tried to get friendly with Anna). It houses the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which trains guides, Trekkers, and climbers. HMI also has a nice museum (mostly Everest) and some interesting exhibits with models of the mountains.

This morning (after resting and breakfast), we took a return trip on the tourist part of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (in other words "a joy ride on the toy train"). Narrow gauge (2') railway with a tiny steam engine (fired by coal). I won't elaborate on the history as you can read that for yourself should you be interested (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darjeeling_Himalayan_Railway). It was relaxing and fun after our early morning.

After resting this afternoon, and some great conversation at tea, we viewed a documentary called "Other Times, Other Places" which is essentially a conversation about the area' s history and the heyday of the Raj (which is what they call the period of British rule). It's complicated.

We thought we might have dinner out but the place we want to try closed at 7:30 pm (so we will have lunch there tomorrow). We did get a good brisk walk there and back which helped us prepare for the food coma of eating here at W.

Tomorrow the 3rd 'T' -- TEA. We'll visit Happy Valley Tea Plantation (as well as a Temple/Monastery and the Tibetan Refugee handicraft store). Up here they say you have to do the three Ts: Tiger Hill at dawn, Train ride, and Tea garden. We're gonna shop, too.

Himalaya

mlodius — Fri, 16 Jan 2015 18:38:00 GMT

15 January

Delhi - Bagdogra (airport) - Kalimpong

We drove from Agra to Delhi yesterday, then flew from Delhi to Bagdogra and drove to Kalimpong. We are currently at our hotel -- The Himalaya-- a 19th century British built curiosity where the first western trading expeditions with Tibet were launched. From the terrace you can see the 3rd highest peak in the Himalaya, Kanchenjunga. It's warm in the daytime sun and chilly once the sun is behind the mountain. )We left pea soup fog in Agra and Delhi. Maybe the sun will be out when we get back.) The river that the road followed is blue/turquoise with glacier water. Lots of colorful small villages hanging on to the hills, road crews out repairing landslides and washouts from the rainy season (there are women and men both on the road crews!), and lush, green, forested areas (teak, too) most of which are protected sanctuaries or national forests.

Our hotel yesterday was Ibis, which is considered a basic stopover hotel for people flying in/out if Delhi. We loved it- it was very much like a cabin on a cruise ship. Very modern and efficiently arranged - and the bathroom was EXACTLY like the one on a ship. Comfy, quiet, and the food was decent if a bit pricey (makes up for the cheaper room rate maybe?).

Contrast that with our weird hotel in Agra: we couldn't decide if it was old or new. Maybe 1970s that had a really cheap and bad "makeover"? At first it was a ghost town-- I swear we saw no other guests mid-afternoon or when we returned from supper-- but THEN, about 8:30 all hell broke loose when school-aged children began playing up and down the hallways and the stairs, slamming doors, yelling, etc. They kept it up for a good 3 hours. Then they were up at 6:30 am pounding on doorways to roust everyone out to get going. Understand that most of the buildings are concrete/granite/marble construction with high ceilings. Loud. Echo-y. I think it was a school field trip. It was a weird hotel. No other way to describe it -- not old enough for the shabbiness (or non-working things) to be quirky. Not modern enough to feel updated. Not dirty, and the breakfast was fine. But glad to be out and on our way.

5 days/nights up here and it will seem like a slower pace. Tomorrow starts with the handmade paper and ends with sunset view of Kanchenjunga (if it's clear).

Our guide is young, but educated and interesting. He is from Darjeeling so will know all the best places. We are the first tourists he has ever had from the USA as the primary agency he works for is out of New Zealand and Australia.

Yes we went to the Taj Mahal

mlodius — Wed, 14 Jan 2015 11:00:00 GMT

14 January

On the road from Agra to Delhi.

It's 10 am and all the markets and shops are opening as we leave the city. It's another foggy, chilly morning and we are glad that we saw the Taj Mahal yesterday afternoon in the hour before sunset. The light was beautiful and it had warmed up some.

Neither of us brought big coats (choosing instead to have layers and layers- heat-tech, leggings, ultralight down vest, etc) and now I am a little apprehensive about going up to the Darjeeling area. I guess I am feeling a little old and cantankerous today :). As it is though, our bags are pretty heavy and I am not sure we could have handled bigger or heavier luggage. I have worn or used every piece of clothing/shoes I am carrying and so far (thankfully!) the major surplus items seem to be in the pharmacy bag.

Aside: we are on an immaculate 6-lane expressway. Ravi says it is a private road- not government.

Here's what we saw yesterday:
Fatehpur Sikri -- Mughal Capitol for 14 years in the late 1500s and abandoned because the population swelled to 30,000 and outgrew the water supply (which adequately supported 5000 for hundreds of years). The emperor who built it (Akbar) was known for his religious tolerance and tried to even start a new religion blending elements of Islam, Hindu, Christian, and Jain. He had 3 wives - Muslim, Hindu, and Christian, and built a separate palace there (and places of worship) for each of them. Very interesting architecture mostly carved out of the local red sandstone. There's a large archaeological project there as well as restoration work going on.
The Red Fort (Agra Fort) - built by Akbar as he moved to Agra. Much of the fort area is being used today by the Indian Army so really only a tiny percentage is open to the public. Interesting approach to the gates with holes and troughs for pouring boiling oil on ones enemy.
Taj Mahal.

Hard parts of the day: riding another early morning train to go from there to here; a tour guide in Agra that walked about 8 feet in front of us and expected us to keep up, and then was not very interesting (he sounded like he had memorized the back of the postcard- and then was surprised that we already knew much of the background and history and could converse about it - and he couldn't go beyond what he had memorized); not enough time to truly explore and I appreciate Fatehpur Sikri because our train was 2 hours behind schedule; a weird hotel and lots of noisy schoolchildren on our floor (very late and very early)-- it sounded like there were 40 of them but it was probably only 10-12.

Best parts of the day: eating our supper at Sheroes Hangout, a cooperative dedicated to helping stop acid attacks on women and children-- an amazing place run by strong, creative, and brave women--the food was so nourishing and yummy; watching the sunset at the Taj Mahal chatting with some nice Aussies; the friendly of our driver Ravi as we left Sheroes (we tried to get him to come inside and at least have tea) - he has really watched out for us and we leave him tomorrow.

Tomorrow brings a flight on Air India to Bagdogra. We will then spend 2 nights in Kalimpong and 3 nights in Darjeeling before coming back for our final round in Delhi.

Tiger, Tiger

mlodius — Mon, 12 Jan 2015 19:57:00 GMT

12 January - Happy 15th Birthday to my niece, Rachael!

This evening I am sitting at the firepit after having listened to/watched a small ensemble of singers/drummers/puppeteers do a little cultural presentation.

We went on 2 "safaris" at the Ranthanbhore National Park (Tiger Preserve) today. The early morning one was really really cold and rather disappointing: it was very foggy and the guide and driver decided to go directly to where they knew a female and 3 younger tigers were feasting on a kill from the day before. It was very difficult to see (fog, trees, tourists) and we really didn't see much of the park and the guide wasn't forthcoming about much if anything -- and it seemed as if we spent hours looking at nothing. HOWEVER-- the afternoon was wonderful. A bit warmer as the sun was mostly out -- and our fearless guide broke the rules and drove up a stream bed and pulled the cantor up within 6 feet of a sleeping male (he didn't even move). This guide also showed us eagles and we had an extensive rude through the park.

It was like riding Indy for 2-3 hours (same jeep sounds and feel) on the Hopland Field Station only with monkeys, peacocks, and banyan trees. If you ever do this, take 2 afternoon safaris and tour the fort in the morning.

PS-- a cantor is like a giant jeep. 21 passengers, a guide, and a driver. Run by the park service. Not sure how they decide which sector you get to see though.

Jai Singh II did a lot of stuff

mlodius — Sun, 11 Jan 2015 19:30:00 GMT

11 January -- Jaipur to Ranthambhore

After a well-deserved lie in this morning and an excellent breakfast at our palace hotel, we said goodbye to the parakeets and went to the Amer Fort, which used to be the Capitol before Jai Singh built Jaipur. Each place that we visit is different from all the others and contains its own part of history. So, this fort was very different from Mehrangarh. Also, it was much more "open" in that you could wander down passageways or up stairs and explore as much as you wanted. The audio tour really enhanced the experience as the "walls" talked throughout (as in "if these walls could talk"). The narrator introduced each place as if it were a person, and then the place told about itself in 1st person. Bonus: there were monkeys and puppies hanging around posing for photos.

We elected not to take the elephant ride up to the fort 1) not wanting to take the extra time and, 2) we had no information on how the elephants were being treated. If we want interaction with elephants we'll find a sanctuary or rescue facility.

We are driving now to Ranthambhore, where the national park/preserve is. Tomorrow's programme is to take both the morning and afternoon driving safari in the hopes of seeing tigers. I'm sure there is plenty of other wildlife to see and learn about as well :p

Interesting drive with areas of hills/mountains/quarries alternating with areas of crops (mustard, hay) and small villages. Oh, and it's Sunday market in the towns, so traffic basically comes to a standstill in those places.

It's sunset and we are now settled into our hotel (another winner) the Ranthambhore Regency. Our meals are all included and there is late afternoon tea/coffee being served out in the pool area. Newer construction with lots of common areas for gathering. Very large mosquitoes but we have good repellant.

Don't Stand in One Place Too Long

mlodius — Sat, 10 Jan 2015 21:21:00 GMT

10 January -- Jaipur

We took the 6:10 am train from Jodphur to Jaipur. It is now 8:30 pm and we have basically crashed. Hotel is lovely -- another heritage property full of antiques and a little shabby. There are peacocks and parrots out & about, and they have a parakeet aviary in the garden. Right outside our door is a lawn where you can take tea, and apparently the pool and spa are excellent, too. We only have the one night here, so are trying to soak it up as much as possible. The beds were so interesting we actually took photos haha.

After settling in at the hotel, we convinced Ravi that we wanted to walk everywhere today. (He was worried and made us promise to phone if we had any problems.) So, we spent this afternoon with excellent audio tours of both the observatory and the City Palace. The observatory, Jantar Mantar, begun in 1728 and is one of 5 built by Jai Singh II (1688-1744). It was restored in 1901 and is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The City Palace, also begun by Jai Singh, has extensive and beautifully displayed collections of textiles/clothing and armaments. The architecture was solidly blended Rajisthani & Mughal even though it was gradually built over many years. The throne room was pretty amazing, too.

Between the two tours, we took on the adventure of finding an ATM (there really aren't any in the old city, but we got good directions and it was only a 5 minute walk).

After 5, when the palace started closing, we walked the bazaars for quite awhile and after dark left the old city to have coffee and dosas at the "Indian Coffee House" which is a 50 year old institution for students and travelers wanting real coffee (instant Nescafé is the default everywhere) and cheap food. Both the coffee and the good were excellent and fresh and it was the least we have spent on a meal yet.

We called Ravi from the coffee house and he found us and saw us safely back to the hotel. There are lots of fireworks tonight -- weddings.

We are learning that if you stand in one place for longer than a few seconds that: hawkers will try and sell you something; men will offer to give you a guided tour; rickshaws (they are 3 wheeled taxis) will stop and see if you want a ride; children will want your picture with them. We were waiting for Ravi to bring the car (lots of traffic) and no less than 5 rickshaws stopped.

Photos: Udaipur- Ranakpur Temple - Jodhpur

mlodius — Fri, 9 Jan 2015 23:59:00 GMT

The Halfway Mark

mlodius — Fri, 9 Jan 2015 19:40:00 GMT

9 January -- Jodhpur

Yesterday's main events: our adventure at the Udaipur main post office & visiting the Jain temple at Ranakpur on the drive from Udaipur to Jodhpur.

Today's main events: touring the Mehrangarh Fort (1459! www.mehrangarh.org); a great lunch at Jhankar Choti Haveli; purchases at the fort's museum shop, Sambhali women's cooperative boutique, & the highly recommended MV spice shop; and a good long walk through the local bazaars in the old city. Oh, and we also visited the Jaswant Theda, a gorgeous white marble memorial.

5:46 pm and we are back at our beautiful hotel, Devi Bhawan. Just google it-- it's everything the web site says. Got upgraded because there were a rash of travelers who seemed to want a "proper twin room" so we said "sure!" to the large and comfy king suite. Lots of foreign (non-Indian) tourists here. Our driver, Ravi, is now on his way to Jaipur. We'll take the train early tomorrow morning.

So, in Udaipur, we were able to scrounge a couple of boxes and we packed up the wedding saris and dresses (along with the bangles which take up a surprising amount of room), assorted gifts and purchases, and a couple of other things we decided not to schlep around. Two boxes totaling about 10kilos... Once we got to the post office yesterday morning (it opened at 10) it was quite the process and it took about 2 hours. That included the guy sewing up the boxes in muslin, and the other guy who didn't know how to find the kind of service we wanted in the computer. We got a very late start, but Ravi was very patient and a very great help to us.

The Jain Temple was very beautiful and interesting. (You can read about it here http://religions.iloveindia.com/jain-shrines/ranakpur-temple.html).

We enjoyed our day today without an official "tour guide". It is good to have a driver though, and not have to negotiate rickshaws or other transport. It's worth every $$ that it cost.

The fort is HUGE and simply amazing. The view of it dominates the city, and it's walls were never breached by the "enemy" -- although there was a famous 6 month long siege that the audio tour called "hungry and hot".

Our train to Jaipur leaves at 6 am and Ravi will meet us when we arrive there. Apparently it is very common and "the usual way" for the tourist to take the train because it is shorter time-wise than the drive. Yesterday's drive was interesting but long, so the train will be a good change. The hotel boxes up breakfast for early departures :) and the TBi representative will pick us up and deliver us to the proper train car.

Still marveling at all the extreme contrasts here: the fort ramparts from the 1400s in the background and the cell tower in the foreground stood out today. I am not gawking as much: old narrow streets from one city to the next have a lot in common with each other. I am still tending to take photos of random animals, though!

We are past the halfway mark and there is still so much to see and do. I wonder if our parcels will make it back before us?

Moon over Udaipur

mlodius — Wed, 7 Jan 2015 01:47:00 GMT

Tonight is a full moon (in Cancer). It is a little before 9pm and it (the moon) is rising over the buildings of the old city across the lake. I am wearing the lovely warm shawl my mother brought me from her Mediterranean cruise several years ago so I feel wrapped in her love and prayers.

Udaipur is beautiful with many havelis (colonial-style mansions lived in by the Nobility from the 1700s until independence. We are staying in one such heritage property, the Karohi Haveli. It is lovely and comfortable.

Today we walked over the foot bridge to the other side of the lake and we visited the Jagdish Temple during one if their worship times (the music and drums!) and then we went to the city palace museum. Anna says she could have spent at least another 3 hours at the palace.
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/rajasthan/udaipur/sights

Today we also took a boat ride on Lake Pichola and had a brief visit to the Queen's Gardens.

Sent laundry out - what a luxury. We have a couple of non-tour days coming up. A welcome respite.

Tomorrow we drive to Jodhpur with a temple stop to break it up. What's that movie? "If it's Tuesday it Must Be Belgium"...

In which Ravi drives us to Udaipur

mlodius — Tue, 6 Jan 2015 23:01:00 GMT

Alert: not posting photos because the wifi is too slow (everybody is on at once)

Anna has been posting on Facebook and Instagram

6 January
On the hwy from Ahmedabad to Udaipur. Our driver, Ravi, called Udaipur a "tourist city". We'll do our best not to succumb.

The countryside since north of Mumbai has been pretty flat and mostly green. On this road we have been passion many farm-cultivated areas as well as herds of cows and even one flock of sheep. Some industrial off in the distance (mills? gins?) off and on. Parts of it remind me of south Alabama landscape wise. And then, a temple will pop up, or that concrete construction with the rebar sticking out the top, or the road signs in Sanskrit script -- and you definitely realize you are in India!

I don't know what I expected-- but I certainly did not expect to love and enjoy it so much.

Also - by every indication I should have been severely car/motion sick several times -- I mean, really, I get queasy riding in the passenger seat between Ukiah and Cloverdale -- but the happy report is that I seem to be able to do all manner of things (knit, read, write this) in the back seat without harmful results. Small blessings.

Just saw our first monkey scamper across the highway. 😃

Crossing the border into Rajastan the terrain changes. Which makes perfect sense, doesn't it? It's turned hilly, rocky, and dry. Trees are pretty much something we left back in Gujarat. You can tell there is some irrigation in places and there is a cactus-like plant that is being used as fencing. The driver says that most of the people who live in this area are very very poor, live in very small houses (he used the word "huts") on the hills, and depend on agriculture, or sending someone in the family to sell things at places like the night market in Ahmedabad. We are 83k from Udaipur.

Later... Hotel is one requested by Anna-- the Karohi Haveli, a heritage hotel on the quieter side of the lake. Gorgeous! Definitely not "modern" but very comfortable. Pics on Facebook (Anna's page).

We had arranged with Ravi to pick us up after settling in so that we could shop at this fair trade store in the guidebook. Our guide for tomorrow showed up with him-- an unexpected gesture-- and he also insisted on taking us to another shop run by his "friend". (Pretty big operation - pushy and expensive. Nice stuff. Too pushy. Too expensive. Bought one simple cotton tunic and he tried to switch prices etc.). So already we are not liking this guide as well as the others we have had so far. However, the store we wanted (Sadhna, which is essentially a fair trade women's cooperative and foundation) had great things at fixed price. We really enjoyed our hour there. We were also able to acquire a box and packing tape so that we can parcel the wedding clothes and other items back to the states, lightening our load especially on the trains and Air India. And -- we have made it clear to the guide that we do not have the extra money to spend in overpriced stores.

We are currently sitting on the top terrace of the restaurant "Millets of Mewar" which bills itself as a healthy Indian fusion restaurant. Delicious food!!! They use locally sourced millet as their main grain and less oil in general. Beautiful lake view.

Tomorrow we tour Udaipur, including the palace, and have a boat ride on the lake. And maybe get the box posted. We are hoping to ditch the guide decently early and do a little poking around on our own before dark.

3 Temples, Silk Road, & Rehman

mlodius — Mon, 5 Jan 2015 23:00:00 GMT

5 January -- Ahmedabad

Before I even start let me say that our friendly and easy-going guide, Noor Rehman Shaikh, has a graduate degree in history and post grad work in English. He is a practicing Muslim and extremely knowledgeable about the different religious traditions here in India (and the world, actually) and how they all connect.

This morning before going to the Calico Museum we visited the gorgeous Swaminanayan Temple (Hindu--1850) and also walked through a 'pol' which is essentially a neighborhood with narrow 3-4 story shared wall houses, narrow winding lanes and an outdoor plaza for gatherings and weddings. Ahmedabad has over 600 pols in the old part of the city.

Then-- the coolest thing ever... Dada hair ni vav -- which is a step well from 1498 where the caravans on the Silk Road used to stop.

At the Calico Museum of Textiles (you can read all about it at www.calicomuseum.org) we lucked out because not one, but two (2!) textile professors were in our group and they knew each other. One is currently over here on a Fulbright studying ikaat techniques, and the other was on sabbatical from the University of Washington. It was very enjoyable and enlightening to follow them around.

Ate a Gujariti lunch at the Green House- which is at a heritage hotel, the House of MG.

We had a full afternoon walking through the center of the old city which is a huge long plaza filled with "hawkers" selling what we think are factory seconds of everything from sneakers to clothing. The Jami Mosque (1423) provided a calm respite. Behind the mosque is the tomb of the founder of the city and on our walk from that we went to a wonderful fabric shop. Our guide made friends with the owner and we were offered tea! More walking through the food and spice markets, and the extremely crowded (totally packed) fabric market. After dark, we went to the night market in the newer part of the city- fun & colorful.

We are now chillin' at the hotel, eating the leftovers from lunch, and contemplating how to get packed again for leaving at 9 am.

Tomorrow's agenda: drive to Udaipur (4-5 hours) with a temple/village stop along the way. Rest up for another full day after that.

So far, so good. We have been very diligent and careful with good and water. The Steri-pen has been quite the curiosity

Wedding Day 2

mlodius — Mon, 5 Jan 2015 03:29:00 GMT

Jan 2
8 am ceremony with turmeric
This morning we are in our 2nd best finery for the rituals with turmeric, grains, fruit, oil, gifts (I know I left something out). The flat is packed with women of all ages in beautiful sarees and churidaar. The immediate family were all in yellow - jokingly they said so that if they got turmeric on their clothes it wouldn't show :). After the morning ceremonies there was a lunch for everyone (150 or more). More yummy food.

You know -- even though the rituals are different, there are so many things that are the same and it's like a HUGE family reunion.
--little girls following their big sisters around in their matching fancy dresses
---little boys running around in Dort of a pack
--overwhelmed and overstimulated toddlers :)
---family members and friends visiting and chatting and it gets noisier and happier as the time passes
---grandmas indulging the little ones with sweets and hugs
---eye-rolling teens bored and on their phones
---people who are only here for the free food and party favours haha

Photos: Navsari and Wedding Festivities

mlodius — Sun, 4 Jan 2015 23:20:00 GMT

Wedding Day and After

mlodius — Sun, 4 Jan 2015 23:04:00 GMT

Jan 4-- on the Gujarat Express train which goes from Mumbai to Ahmedabad. We boarded in Navsari.

Said our farewells this morning to Patel family and friends. We both feel like we have made wonderful connections with many people -- the majority of whom are actually in California!

The big day of the wedding was yesterday. If you want a step-by-step description of what happened over all three days you can Google that. Even then, every wedding is slightly different because certain family rituals will be different from village to village and caste to caste.

It was:
Colorful
Sparkly (especially the clothing,jewelry, and decoration)
Yummy (wonderful food - Gujariti thali style)
Filled with many contrasts

I took as many photos as I could- even a couple of video clips- but the extreme lighting from the videographer and photographer made it a bit tricky to getting little camera or my phone to get good shots. Instead of bride-zilla, it was really photographer-zilla as each side had their own crew and tried to outdo each other. It really made the ceremony full of long delays last night. Even so, it was an auspicious event and we were so honored to be treated like family.

Anna spent the afternoon between events with the bridesmaids and families, getting ready and taking part in the mischievous shenanigans that are part of their tradition. You can ask her about some of that because I was spending that same afternoon wondering how in the world to get everything into my suitcase. We are now already contemplating "parceling" a box home of wedding clothes and gifts. Since we have 2 days in Ahmedabad it might be possible. It would certainly lighten the load!

Later... 7:30ish pm
It feels like we have the whole hotel to ourselves. We are certainly the only ones in the restaurant. Is it too early? Everyone else is having room service? But the hotel is VERY NICE. Very modern. See the pictures :)

5 hour train ride was uneventful. Not too uncomfortable just a lot of sitting. And it was only 15 minutes later than scheduled so was "on time". We were met immediately by our guide (very knowledgeable and personable) and our driver who will be with us for the next several days. Visited the Hathee Singh Jain temple (you can look that up on Wikipedia) and the Sabarmarti Ashram. (http://gandhiashramsabarmati.org/en/).

On tomorrow's agenda among other things: a walk around the old walled city and a visit to the Calico Museum. And maybe the night market.

WiFi at last!

mlodius — Sun, 4 Jan 2015 22:29:00 GMT

As you can see, I didn't get this posted until Jan 4. Lack of reliable WiFi and I have already used more than my allotment of 3G data. But here it is unedited.

Note: Gonna post this now while there is wifi-- even tho it isn't finished and now we have moved on to Navsari for the wedding festivities.

Tuesday 30 December, day 2, Mumbai.

On Today's agenda: a city tour that we were originally told would be at 9:30 am, but after phoning up the tour company at 10:30 am, we were informed that we were on their list for 2 pm. We made use of our time.

So- yesterday and shopping. First stop was a store called Fabindia. Amazing. They may not be the cheapest, but there you are guaranteed that everything is made in India and fair trade. Anna and I could have spent the entire day in this store. As it was, both of us came out with at least 2 outfits for warm weather. I feel like I even have something I can wear to one of the wedding parties. After that - we spent almost 2 hours acquiring a SIM card for India. First the crowded store to get a number to wait, then we had to go across the street to Asiatic to get a photo made (more shopping while we were waiting on the photo to print as Asiatic has pretty much everything). Then back to the phone store to wait more and then the purchase of the SIM card. Activated at 7pm that evening was code for noon the next day. The next adventure was the Colaba Market - which was lots of sidewalk stalls and tiny vendors. Very crowded. A guy who makes/sells drums pretty much attached himself to us. ( I did not buy a drum because I did not want to haul it around. I know that will come as a shock to many of you. ) He was pretty funny. Anna bought some more clothing in a store we found with really great stuff. Our driver, Mr. Singh, was pretty awesome. We wish we had him today!

After all the shopping adventures, we rested up and then walked down the street to the Taj Mahal Hotel to have drinks and dinner (a splurge) at the historic Harbour Bar, which was the first bar in Mumbai after prohibition. (1933 I think.) we had small plates of chicken, chili cheese toast, and fried prawns. Lovely view of the water and the Gateway of India.

So this morning we thought we were touring at 9:30. Nope-- 2 pm. So we went down the street to "the Taj" for Wifi at Starbucks. Nope-- but we did stoke the fires with a little caffeine. And then decided on an expedition to the Vodafone store because the previously aforementioned SIMM card would not activate. Long walk. No store. Taxi to yesterday's store in Churchgate-- magically we can make the call and make the phone work. Taxi back to hotel and rest up for the tour.

2 pm-- commence driving tour of Mumbai. Our tour guide, Maria, turns out to be an amazing historian with a passion for her country. We get to have Mr. Singh as our driver! A lovely surprise.

We learn (among other things): Bombay was built by the British for the British (kind of like Christchurch, NZ). India was never officially a British territory and the whole self-rule freedom fighter movement (Gandhi et al) was built around this fact. Maria was interested that I do a unit with my EL students that is about Gandhi and uses original documents like his letters to Hitler and Roosevelt.

7:30 pm. I am sitting on a rooftop in Mumbai. Huh? Really? Looking out over the harbour-- drinking a beer-- the pollution has lifted and there is a cool breeze. I like it here. I am not sure I expected to truly like it. I'd take a picture but it wouldn't capture the mood.

The sautéed garlic smells so good. Did I say I was sitting on a rooftop in Mumbai? It turns out that our hotel has a rooftop cafe/bar with a great Zomato rating. Fish Kalimiri (black pepper) that's what I had. OMG. Who knew from our weird inclusive breakfast?!

1 January 2015

Today's agenda: a little shopping for wedding jewelry and clothes, then this afternoon the mendi ceremony for Nital. It's considered to be one of the smaller parties and s'more casual event (a dress instead of a sari).

Yesterday we checked out of the Mumbai hotel about 8 am and our wonderful driver (Mr. Singh) took us to see the Dhobi-ghat -- Mumbai's oldest and biggest human powered clothes washing facility. The picture doesn't begin to do it justice. After that, National Hwy 8 to the very north end of Mumbai to be picked up by Nital's family for the 4 hr. Drive to Navsari.

We arrived in Navsari to an enthusiastic welcome and many hugs. After chai and snacks, it was decided that we were to join the women getting their henna (mendi) done ahead of time in order to make it easier on us the next afternoon at the formal mendi ceremony for the bride. Lovely experience in a bedroom full of chattering lovely women and girls. Hands and arms full of henna made for some delicate moments at dinner.

We are staying in a place that is a combination dorm/guest house/assisted living. It hard to describe but there are 3 home-cooked (and delicious) meals a day and the rooms are kind of like firm suites. 2 other families associated with the wedding are staying here - 7 of us altogether. We have made friends and are enjoying each other.