I need to think of a new nickname. Perhaps Tired-Tron version 1.3b. Or maybe Weary McWearyson. Miss Fatigue 2010? Oooh! Weary Woman Wonder. I could wear lycra. I have spent a good two days checking out Jaisalmer, the aptly named Golden City…..well, it’s made of sandstone. Shut up, it’s a golden colour. Tis so! Perhaps the photos just don’t bring it out. So Jaisalmer. It’s really cool. I was quite apprehensive when Paddy told us it was a more touristy city and quite pleased to find that it is quite a calming place despite its warren-like feel and a larger number of tourists than we have encountered yet.
After arriving yesterday in town, we had a free afternoon. Well, technically. We went for a walk to a silversmith’s house and ended up spending over two hours going through silver jewellery and ornaments. You’ll be pleased to know that I did not buy anything – it was all a little expensive for somebody that gets all her jewellery at Diva. A couple of hours on the net and it was bedtime – the best sleep I’ve had since I’ve been here (very much looking forward to sleeping tonight).
This morning we were up and off to take a tour of the Jaisalmer fort. We were tuk-tukked in to the only live-in fort in India. Unfortunately the fort pays the price for this – due to water seepage the fort is slowly crumbling. For preservation sake we are requested to never stay inside the fort or to buy anything from the vendors within the fort. These vendors have been asked to move outside the fort and have even been offered some compensation in order to do so, but are sadly short-sighted and refuse to budge. One can only hope that its listing on the World Monuments Watch list of the 100 most endangered sites can help raise awareness. I said hope.
Despite being all forted out, this one was just stunning. The sandstone is carved all around (mind you, this is throughout the city, not just the fort!) and there are also the seven Jain temples inside which further illustrate this amazing craftsmanship. Be careful though ladies – you are asked not to enter if you are menstruating so as to not pollute the ‘sanctity’.
We wandered, wound and wove through the ants-nest streets of the fort, taking in the beauty, serenity and occasional cow. I even managed to get head butted this morning (I have a nice cork in my butt cheeks) by selfishly standing where one bull wanted to walk. Tut, tut. *rubs butt cheek*
After the fort we went to the local markets so that we could buy things that we had seen inside the fort but were unable to. We checked out some havelis, local homes that are intricately carved and often contain shops. We spent quite some time in the second one we visited as it specialised in pashminas and hand-woven textiles, including table-cloths, quilts, wall hangings and runners. It was so hard not to buy from here. Everything was just divine – everybody ooohed and aahhed appropriately when each new thing was brought out. The combination of price, lack of room, lack of Andrew to consult with and the thought of flopping onto some of these quilt covers helped me to not make a purchase. Some of the pashmina scarves though……..*swoon* And the wall-hangings! I am actually now just watching Anna look at the one she bought…..*sigh of regret*
Afterwards we headed back to the Saffron Restaurant where we had dinner the night before – and the food is amazing here. I actually had Italian for tea last night – well, Indian-Italian anyway. I had spaghetti pomodoro with an Indian twist – not spicy as one might assume, but sweet. It might have been cinnamon, I’m not sure. Whatever it was, it was awesome. So this evening we had an early dinner and headed back to the hotel for a relaxing evening, which I am now winding up. We are off to Jodhpur tomorrow – so by the time you read this I will have left and I can safely tell you that I was a mere 150km from the Pakistan border! But, I'm sure you looked me up on a map so you already knew this :). Hope life is treating you all well – I only have another two weeks and I will be home! Nearly half-way. L
A piu tardi!!
XX
Jaisalmer photos