Well...first and foremost I have to say that the word "Thai" has a meaning of it's own that lies somewhere with in eating and food! I have had the most incredible food and at the same time too much. So here are the most import Thai words - that are said a lot through meal time and which is at leat 50% of the day. Sep - delicious Aloi _ extra extra delicious and Im - FUll!!!! Everyday we have hopped on the motorbike to go to the Markets or to a "resteraunt" at least 3 times a day and then in between. WE all eat and share out of the same bowls dip and reach acrross the table and nobody waits for anybody to eat. I have eaten things that I have never eaten for years...such as chicken...but when a family opens their home and hearts it's hard to explain my crazy picky diet. Breathe in and breathe out and let it go, thats what the Forest monks say in my mind all the time:) I have met the fish before i ate it and have found a new love: sticky rice. THe family, especially Noi, is so giving and friendly, and the language barrier is a constant challenge. It's a good thing I sat in silence for 10 days because there are times I feel like I am still in silence after hours of no conversation...so I just sit back, embrace my surroundings and enjoy the ride! And this is a challenge for me:)
The first day the family drove 2 hours to help me buy a new camera in Udon Thani and then back to Nong Kai to exchange my Kip (Laos $) for Baht (Thai $). In all the excitement and chatting at the border I forgot to do it - so typical of me! All day Noi tells me that she loves me in her heart and she talks a lot about her husband Bobby who takes good care of her and her family and how she is happy and how she understands him. I'm not sure I completely understand the whole "marriage" but what I am noticing is that Noi is very giving of the money she has and the home she stays in and shares it and spreads it all around.
Going out and about with Thai's is funny. The ladies are always touching me. They hold my arm, hand, back and even Butt! THey take me around like I am their girlfriend, child, found treasure, or escort...not sure. In general there is no personal space boundaries...they sit right on top of you , watch you, smile at you and wait for you to make and move and when you do everybody is aware of it and then get excited. She watches me do yoga, the waiter stands on top of you until you order, and when i put my jacket on in the car everybody laughed and got excited. And they are always trying to teach me Thai words and I try to teach them English - I have come to realize that I am a much better teacher than student. Every time I tried to lift a finger and do something they tell me to "take it easy". It is hard for me to embrace all this giving and love and not be able to give back and just except it. THey keep telling me to stay for weeks and when I leave and get married (which they have in their head I am engaged) to come back for my Honeymoon. I have realized that Noi only knows SOME ENglish.
THe family is sweet. Puy is the older man/father down the road and friends for a couple years - he is a Thai boxing champion who loves to laugh and say my name. Phan (I think) is his wife she is a tough lady yet very sweet and few teeth. She always gives me the "Whats up" look and knod. There other friend (Name?) is a wholesome lady, shorter than me, and always looking out for everybody! Grandmom is 85, sits on this bench a looks outside to the driveway all day to see who is coming and is a fabulous cook and one strong women: She rode 1/2 a day in the back of a truck got car sick and threw up and went to the bathroom on the side of the road at least 3 times. Boi is the 24 year-old girl who I just laugh with. SHe knows about as much English as I know Thai. We sat together the other day and I drew pictures and she gave me words - But she wouldn't give me the word for :(. I tried to go for a walk the other day (I am in dedsperate need of excersise and a salad) and she took my hand and walked me back. She gently washed my hair in the salon the other day and did my laundry and folded my clothes. It's the Thai way - serve. The other night she came to say good night and gave me a hug and kiss and said "I Love you Jenny" - yes they call me Jenny a lot and I can't help but think of forrest gump. And of course Noi: has a big heart and shares it with everybody!!!!!
As I said before the language barrier is hard, now I know how children feel having lots to say but no words for it. Some other inportant words : Soui - beautiful, Swadika - Hello, Kapkumkha - Thank you (With hands to heart and a bow) Cha - yes. By the way the pelling is my own version! I sure am learning to be by myself and quiet with myself. WHat is so beautiful though is that our hearts talk and shine and our eyes offer love and kindness to each other and there is no need for words! Noi tells me that When she saw me in Laos her heart saw mine and she saw I was Happy and she said to her friends she wanted to meet me and talk to me...well she got her wish! And I have to mention somewhere that Noi and I definitly have a connection b/c she is always reading my mind!
The house is lovely and sits on the river with mango trees and banana trees and lots of great sitting areas and green plants and flowers everywhere. THe cooking part of the kitchen is outside under the deck and next to the car port. The floors in the house are redwood and there are 3 bedrooms, a living room, a bathroom where the shower and toilet are seperate:), a kitchen area, and down stairs is the beauty salon...and all the women sleep on the floor in the living room with the TV on. Around the house you always hear Thai music in the background from accross the river, birds singing a way, a motor bike going by, dogs and roosters, and then an occasional firecracker going off - a favorite passtime of children here...which drives Noi's dog Nano or Rambo (not sure) Bonkers.
I finally understand the Markets. THey do not have grocery stores or strip malls and everybody everyday goes and gets their fresh food or meals at the markets. On the weekends cloths and jewelry and such. People live and work out of their house for the most part or cook and prepare and bring it to the market. They do not have overstocked fridges. Its great. Each little area/community has a market and everybody has a food or a service they provide or both to their town. the food is grown local and the money stays local. and everybody is always working and living and relaxing. SO we are just hangin out about to have dinner and someone comes by to get their hair washed. If we need ice we go to this house, if we need drinks we go to that house, if we need a meal we can go over to this house, if we want to cook we can go to the market. SOme places even deliver. Make Sense? The home shops are always open. Thats their life and they sit around with their family and laugh and eat all day. Its either that or go to the city, be in the grind, and live in bigger houses. There homes are run down, small, dirty, garage like, and one room usually where everything happens...and a hammock and eating area on the porch with their stand of goods to sell. They choose this way. And then some luck out, like Noi, and find a westerner. Nobody thinks less of her though.
There are a few stores - no chains though except for Tesco which is their version of Wallmart...and somewhere not to far there is a 711..a comforting sight for a Falang (Foreign) We went there to get snacks for the road trip: cookies, crakers, cookies, bread....yikes! I have to mention that they put sugar in everything - even soups- and rice rice rice and they LOVE ovaltine and carnation cream! And I have had to let it go over and over again with the food - yeaterday i was given a piece of beef with sticky rice and i kept saying Mai "No" but they wouldnt have it - I looked everywhere for a napkin to spit it into like i did when i was a child but i had to let it go and swallow...they understand no pork and fish ok for me but thats as far as we got. I really dont think they will try to offer me snake though b/c i gave them a disgusted look when i saw it being sold at the market.
Everymorning it rains sheets, i find a moment to sit and mediatate, sometimes do yoga, make a call on skype, write a little bit, and then I come out of the room and start the day...with rice and eggs and something warm to drink. Sometimes it Lipton tea, sometimes its instant coffee, and sometimes it ovaltine. And Noi and I sit and I listen. Her favorite things to talk about is her coming to COlorado to visit me and see a traditional wedding, how she is going to miss me, her husband, and how she likes to care for me and wants me to take it easy and no worry. Her husband is away and she misses him a lot and she always says to me...jenny you miss your boyfriend, I understand. ANd after she and the neighborhood saw a slide show of all my pictures from Colorado and the East Coast she said Jenny you are so lucky you have lots of friends and a beautiful family! And I said Yes I AM:)
Part 2: Spirituality - A trip to the temple, Heart - a visit to the family, Nature - a road trip to Loei National Park.