trust, love, and the unknown

Dancing at the Pakistan Border

loveandjoy — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 02:00:00 GMT

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My last day in Amritsar I went to the Pakistan Border. Each day the border has a closing ceremony that is set up for a large audience to see. I went with 8 Indians and on the way stopped at a bizarre Hindu temple that is set up like a McDonalds play land. You walked through narrow caved water ways, turned corners that opened up into intricate detailed mirrored mosaic Gods and you climbed through caves and drank holy water and ate sweets. Blessings received! We also stopped at the Hindu’s version of the golden temple – definitely not as impressive but blessings available there as well.

We got to the border, or 1 km from it, and walked our way to the ceremony. When we arrived we were told to go to the women section. I was tickled with the scene that was created around this daily event. There were bleachers set up facing the India section of the road that leads to the border gate. I felt as if I was at a homecoming football game as the crowd cheered and chanted for their country and India’s top 40 songs were playing over the loud speaker. Children from schools were running the large India flag back and forth and a talk host was getting the crowd cheering and screaming and showing their country pride. There were at least a thousand people there, and this goes on everyday! You could look down the road and see and hear the same event happening on the Pakistan side. It was as if India was chanting “we have spirit yes we do, we have spirit how about you!” and Pakistan was responding!!!!! The best was that girls from the bleachers started to come down to the road and dance. It only took me about 5 minutes or so until I couldn’t sit anymore and I joined in the Bollywood India hip hop dance party and gleamed at embraced the unique moment of dancing at the border of Pakistan and India with beautiful Indian Women whom were mostly dressed like high school girls. What a great way to be ending my travels!!!!

The long ceremony began which involved 6 soldiers from each side who had a unique march to do. One by one the did their march and holler to the gate a did a routine with a rope attached to the flag. After all 12 soldiers did their act, the then did some demonstrations around the flag and gate. One by one. And then, one by one each soldier did their galloping marching chanting dance back to their original posts. It was quite a performance.

The day ended with eating street food that was shoved in my mouth by my tour companions and lots of recognition from people in Amritsar who saw me dancing! I took myself out to a meal in the city – had dosas a favorite of mine from the south, circled the perimeter of the golden temple and gave thanks for all my blessings, bought my nephew a sword then rested my head one last night in the dorms and got up at 4 am to catch the train to Delhi. In constant motion…….

Amritsar - a slice of heaven

loveandjoy — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 01:50:00 GMT

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My last new place to explore on my trip was Amritsar. This place is famous for it’s golden temple built by the Sikhs and a close proximity to the Pakistan border. I have seen the temple in Bollywood movies and have heard about it from other travelers as well as the famous border closing ceremonies. I choose to do something a little more unique than spending my last few days in another mountain area with yogis (Rishikesh)– next time!

I took a bus that traveled on for 12 hours and found myself more comfortable and relax than ever. I’m not sure if I finally let go of the anxiousness of the unknown or what’s next but I sat on that bus, never looked at my guidebook once (true sign of comfort), watched out the window and made my way to my last stop w/o any interaction or help from another westerner. When I got off the bus I just started to walk, got a rickshaw to the temple, and then soon everything laid out in front of me like a red carpet!

Little did I know that the red carpet would lead me right to a slice of heaven. I approached the temple that was a living active world with in itself. Pilgrims from all over India come and spend time at this place to pray and bath and serve and eat and receive blessings. On the outskirts of the temple is like a miniature city all built to serve the needs of the pilgrims and visitors. It includes gift shops, a nest café stand, places to store shoes and bags, places to make donations, and public sleeping and shower areas. In the public sleeping areas behind a guarded door there is a dormitory for foreigners. I was led there and warmly welcomed and given a bed in a shared room, a locker, and soon I am shown to the cleanest bathroom in India as well as an endless supply of hot water! After I set my stuff down, checked in with a traveler who was leaving (or he thought anyway) – Kernby from Canada – I did my normal wander around half dazed yet re-inspired routine after a long bus ride.

I quickly fell in love with the white glowing peaceful sacred ambience of the Golden Temple and its surroundings. All the people there were so kind, the music of the Sikh play, nobody is hassling you, smoking is prohibited, shoes are not allowed, and heads must be covered. When I walked through the washing waters and into the temple area words were lost for the amount of beauty and peace and amazement that flowed through my body. The glistening golden temple sits in the middle of a huge rectangle pool of holy water that is outlined by a marble sidewalk and magnificent buildings that hold smaller temples, alters and gathering places. There is a constant flow of people, families are moving around the outskirts of the holy waters, a line of patient pilgrims move slowly into the small temple to receive a blessing and sing and pray, other people stop and pray at various important sights along the edge of the waters, others sit and listen to the temple band, some are chanting, Sikhs are bathing, children are playing and there is a community kitchen that is open 24 hours a day that feeds over 40,000 people each day. This wonderland, the home of Sikhs, follow its spiritual philosophy of all is welcomed and they celebrate that God is in everything. With open minds and open hearts and huge smiles this place is ran on donations and love. Yes that’s right all the food, sleeping, showering, and praying is free!

One of my favorite parts of the Golden Temple is the Community Kitchen. On my first day I wondered into the assembly line and was handed a tali plate (silver plate with sections) a bowl, a spoon, and smiles. I went with the flow a found my way up stairs and into a HUGE dining hall with no seats. Everybody sat in lines on the floor while people came around with slop buckets to fill the plates. Water and chapatti was provided too! It was just like anywhere else in India where the people were chanting the name of the product that they had to offer. I was in the room eating with at least 500 Sikhs (yes I was the only westerner) and on my way out I got to get a good look at the production. Each area had at least 20 people helping out: The dishwashing, garlic peeling, chapatti making, vegetable cutting, chai boiling, food cooking – 3 separate dishes - , plate collection, spoon collection, bowl collection, floor cleaning between each group, water gathering, and I am sure there is more that I forgot. Many times while I was visiting the golden temple I went to the kitchen and for one afternoon I had one of the best times I’ve had in India – I helped out!!!! I help make chapattis and peel garlic. And during breaks I took many photos and drank chai and through all of it I smiled and laughed and hugged and shared and enjoyed the genuine warm kind loving company of the Sikhs! It was a great experience to be part of the creation and energy of the food that will be served to all the Pilgrims. So much sincere love and joy is put into this temple and the food that it provides and feeds the spirit of all. Later I ate again and felt more connected than ever to the food I was eating and to those i shared it with. Once again I scratched beneath the surface of the tourist land and felt more apart of the Indian culture. I sat with the people as tours went through the kitchen and I felt like I was on the otherside and did not have much in common with the tourist except for the color of our skin. What a wonderous experience

Another great blessing that came out of this slice of heaven was a new friend – Kernby. He and I spent my first day enjoying the temple and the city that surrounds it. Our conversations consisted of love, and spirit, and desire for peace and a healthy earth. We wandered around the city, tried different street food and watched craftsmen make swords and sell balloons. The city was filled with great sweets, winding allies, friendly people, and more unique items. That evening was one of the best sunsets ever as we went beyond the borders of the temple and climbed onto a roof. Here we were looking down on the world of the Golden Temple feeling untouchable and lucky and we had the company of children that lived at the temple. The beauty and magic inspired us to write, the comfort tempted us to sleep on the roof, and the children chatted with us, shared tea and biscuits, and we flew kites with them at sunset! The next morning I woke for sunrise at the temple and reconnected with Kernby for another temple experience. We found our way inside the small golden building and sat and watched and breathed as pilgrims came in with offerings, songs, tears, prayers, hope and love. It was like being inside a timeless snowglobe filled with color and people shining and glistening and swirling in a magic bubble. We sat there for a long time.

I quickly surrendered to the flow of the days at the golden temple and enjoyed the company of all the folks who help keep this place alive from the women who clean the bathroom and love to laugh and joke to the guard who stands at the entrance door to the dorm and ready to help and guide you in anyway. It was a lovely place that was warm and welcoming. Definitely one of my favorite places on my travels!

From Turbans to Tibetans

loveandjoy — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 04:04:00 GMT

There was something about McLeod Ganj that made me want to stay nestled in the mountains and learn and interact as much as I could. In a weeks time I found myself filled with events and inspiring happenings that could keep me in McLeoud for many more weeks. I wondered around the monestary and spenttime with the monks and sitting in for their 1:30 Puja ceremony. The enrergy and sound of prayer overwhelmed me as it flowed through my body from the crown of my head to the tips of my toes. The gentleness of the monks and their warm smiles kept me warm during the chilly day.

I took a Tibetan massage/acupuncture course with a great Dr where I learned more in 7 days in healing and the body and herbal medicine then I could have learned in 1 month in a institution. I can’t wait to use this skill with my friends and who ever may need itJ I learning Indian and Tibetan cooking, immersed myself in literature around Aryurvedic healing, and found myself saying hi to all the neighbors around and sitting and having sweets and tea with them. I took beautiful hikes into rhodedendrum forests, I quickly connected with a long lost soul sister from another lifetime, and I met the Karmapa and received his blessings after having several dreams and serendipitous events and a free ride from mother Anita to continue to push me on the path. I loved having tea in the home of a Tibetan refugee Tangka painter and who was practicing English, and also having a home cooked Tibetan meal with my Teacher and hearing his story of lost love and passion for his work of healing.

The spirit of survival and passion for freedom is strong in McLeod Ganj. I was fortunate to participate in a candle light service, a march, conversations, see movies around the issues and be a part of a movie premier based on the story of the Refugees that were shot at by the Chinese and caught on film by Mountain Climbers. All of their tales are beyond words of courage and their hearts and souls are what you want to hold and celebrate and protect. My passion for wanting to serve and help the Tibetans was triggered as well as the emotions of frustration, anger, and sorrow. I figured while I was in McLeod I could do the best as I could as one individual and listen to their stories, share smiles and hugs, turn prayer wheels, help them with their English, and buy some of their products. I know that McLeod Ganj is definitely a tempting place to return to if there is a time in my life where I can volunteer and serve – there are a number of passionate westerners helping and living there. Another great thing was that I arrived in Mcleod just at the end of its "off" season. So the streets were mainly filled with Tibetans and Indians….with a random tourist here and there.

My last day I said my good-byes to my temporary community, had my favorite Tibetan Special sweet bar and got a taxi at 4:30 AM down to the bus station in Dharamsala to make my way to my last stop on this India adventure: Amritsar.

Back to the Mountains: McLeod Ganj

loveandjoy — Sun, 8 Mar 2009 03:54:00 GMT

The next destination point for me was Dharamsala, or even more specific McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Llama. I took a night bus out of Pushkar to Delhi, tried to make friends with Delhi again, and then got on another night bus up to McLeod Ganj, AKA little Lhasa. After a dazing day in Delhi I was happy to see this guy Joe from the US whom I met in Pushkar at the secluded bus stand. He was getting on the same bus I was with his friend Jake. For a while I wasn’t quite sure where I was or where these people I bought a bus ticket from (for too much money of course) at 5 in the am were taking me to get on a bus. The purchasing of the bus ticket is a whole other adventure that involves scamming a weary traveler starring a rickshaw driver and an American girl. Several hours involved a lot of back and forth, unnecessary rickshaw rides and many Indian men!

Joe and his friend Jake have just come from a wedding and were heading in the same direction – perhaps I inspired Joe to come in Pushkar. As we waited for the bus in a vacant parking lot in the woods we were frequently approached by boys selling water bottles and chips…and my new personal favorite a man who provides ear cleaning with what looked like a long sewing needle with a cotton swab on the tip. The man was convinced that Joe needed his ear cleaned but Joe assured him that he was quite content with his own Johnson and Johnson Q-tips. Joe, Jake and I instantly became friends as we chatted about the US, music, traveling, and carried similar personalities and good old US humor! The bus ride (Delux = old school bus) was long, bumpy and cold, and poor Jake was sick.

The next morning we arrived in McLeod and found our way eventually to a guesthouse. Tired and weary but not wanting to waste the day we found a home, had some breakfast, and roamed about. The view was magnificent as you could see that the Himalayans were watching over the town that sat on a mountain side, and the place was hassle free and filled with the gentleness of the Tibetan spirit. McLeod Ganj is the home of MANY MANY MANY Tibetan refugees and dominates its culture and environment. We arrived during the time of the Tibetan New Year (known as Losar) but this year the Tibetans have chosen to not celebrate and have a black year due to all the killings that happened last March.

My time in McLeod lasted much longer than anticipated, as it is one of those places that is easy to get stuck in. Joe and Jake only had 2 days left to travel before returning to Malaysia (med students studying/working) and so I spent those next few days with them going on walks in the mountains, staying in the small village of Bhagsu, enjoying the Mountains and embracing the company of guys whom I probably have met in a past life or at a concert (most likely Phish!) I knew I met these guys for a reason…to surface the excitement and reality of returning back to the United States. One day we were sitting in a Tibetan Restaurant and there on the book shelf was an old coffee table book of photos from the Rocky Mountains…..I grabbed it and proudly told everybody that was were I was from and where I was going soon. The three of us looked through the book and were quickly reminded of what a beautiful place America is. After our meal we wondered our way to the Monastery where the Dalai Llama lives and found out that unfortunately he was out of town so there was no opportunity for meeting with him…which perhaps may have been a relief as Joe and I picked and picked at our brains as we wondered what we would ask the Dalai Llama. Our second day we packed our bags and went to this small village we heard about above McLeod. The village was obviously a backpacker’s hot spot but b/c ot was off-season it was a ghost town. We found a lodge that was deserted, with magnificent views, very cheap and comes equipped with a pack of dogs! We soon realized that the whole village had dogs that covered their own areas. The hike up to the village/lodge was challenging (after filling my bag in Pushkar) but worth the pain and sweet.

We spent the day on a hike finding our way across Dharamkot and to a ridge. Along the way we found ourselves a dog whom we named spirit who guided us for the afternoon. SO you may be wondering what inspired us to call the dog spirit, well after a half-hour or so of hiking the same 2 dogs were following us. One black (shadow) and one orange (spirit). At a turning point on the so-called trail we stopped to take a breath, some photos, and a moment. The orange dog came running up to all of us, said hi, then came over to me circled by my legs and peed on my foot!!!!!!! So we decided that this dog and I had a special relationship and when in doubt we followed him. Spirit lead us to a small Hindu temple on the side of the mountain and then all the way up to a ridge where we had a lunch at a café with one of the most spectacular views EVER!!!!!! The funny thing is that the moment I tried to claim spirit or make an action to make him my own – such as buying him food or planning a night of snuggling – spirit disappeared. Good life lesson:)

We found our way down and back to our lodge. Jake took a rest and Joe and I wondered into the Ghost town. On the way we came across a temple that sounded like it was having a dance party. I peeked in and it was one of the brightest, cleanest, unique temples I have ever seen. Some Hindu temples are absolutely BIZARRE and in someway resemble a McDonalds Playland. This temple was like a living animated children’s show starring gods and goddesses that you discover as you craw into the mouth of a lion/dragon creature, climb up in to caves around corners (watch your head) and out on to the rooftop…. and for more adventure finding your way back down. It was a plastic colorful Barney meets telitubbies – India style – wonderland. Later we found ourselves crossing paths with some folks we met in a tiny cliff-side tea shack in McLeod and had some tea. Joe and I found an internet place and sent a few emails out. Not too soon after I noticed the key to my room was missing…..many deep breaths and calmness help me to retrace my steps and LUCKILY find the key sitting and waiting for me on a deserted stone wall. Whew that could have been a tough situation! The evening was finished with a bag of boiled vegetables, some chapatis, a bounty bar, and a wide-open sky filled with stars sparkling and falling and sharing stories of their own. It was a nice relaxing few hours of chatting with a new – or old – friend under a mesmerizing sky in the peaceful silence at the foothills of the Himalayans!

The next day we sat and had some breakfast while I chatted with an Aryurveda Herbalist/Med Student and decided to get some herbs. My interests in healing and herbs and ancient wisdom and traditions and energy and spirit continues to grow and be fed and the desire to learn Ayurveda has been sparked in India. I was like a child in a candy store learning and purchasing all the herbs that grow in the mountains and villages of India and what they heal and how to prepare them. We continued our morning with a walk to a waterfall and more time sitting around, enjoy the mountain views and each others company and drinking tea and taking photos. On the way back we had chai with the herbalist, finished our purchase order (the western med students bought some things too!) and took a rickshaw back to McLeod Gangj. Finished off our day together with a walk down a different path, a meal, a little shopping, and hugs goodbye, and some green string of course! At this time I thought I would only be staying in McLeod for another day….but the gentleness and warmth of the Tibetan Community and all the available learning kept me snuggled in the mountains for another 7 days.

Next: SOOO much Learning in McLeod.

One more Pushkar Tale

loveandjoy — Sun, 8 Mar 2009 00:27:00 GMT

- of course, as always I have to add one more story from my last entry, Pushkar. One night when Gara and I were walking home, after a fantastic meal of fresh spinach ravioli (really!) the place next door to our lodge had the most unique sound of music coming out of its’ front door. I stopped in front of it; peaked in to see what was happening, and was invited in by the friendly warm-hearted Rajisthani residents. When I walked inside it was like a run down hotel, with a courtyard and empty rooms to each of my sides. The place was filled with people of all ages and the energy had a feel of a community or a small village functioning and living behind the walls on the street. You would have no idea that this world existed if it wasn’t for all the noise….it sounded like a celebration! Right at the door was an old bed that an elderly man sat on and in each room was people playing old instruments and singing. To the left was the room with the boys and men and to the right were the women. The men gestured me to sit down in the room and listen as they played old handmade string instruments and sang songs along with an organ/piano type wind instrument. The music was happy and soulful and sacred and the men just loved to smoosh together and sing with all their hearts while sitting on a stone cold dirt floor holding their boys in their laps. Behind me in the other room, perhaps the kitchen, all the women were sitting on the floor singing. When I turned to look one women walked over and gestured me to come in their room. She sat me in the middle of the circle and all the women sang to me with big smiles and bobbling heads. I felt like I was being initiated into the girls club or I was the goose in the goose pot. The songs were slow and sounded sad as the women sang them in a long drawn out whiney rattling voice. Their faces were mostly covered and they looked at me in awe as they poked at my clothes and skin and shared bright smiles and hearts. After A while I did what any tourist would do….I broke out the camera, did some video and took many picture requests. From that day on during my time in Pushkar I was friends with the neighbors, said hi to them in the streets, and bought water and such from their little shop nearby. In general music was a big part of Rajisthan. I always seem to run into it, sit and listen to it, and have the urge to do the pollka or something. These turban wearing folks love to celebrate and dance and play music….and have lots of wild and crazy wedding parades!!!!

Still Catching Up....Pushkar

loveandjoy — Sat, 7 Mar 2009 04:58:00 GMT

I can’t Believe that I am back in the US!!!! I worry that soon my memories will start to slip away so I am going to try to spend my first few days back writing a bit...next stop Pushkar...wait...a few quick notes about Bundi, a little on the rougher side, I saw some of the saddest things animal wise and human wise. I won’t go into detail but feel free to ask me some time. Also, there was an afternoon that Gara and I spent on a grassy hill by the cafe and lake. A group of girls came over ranging from 8 - 14 years old and they spoke English. We talked for a long time about countries, cultures, movies and movie stars (they call them heroes) and music. The girls sang songs, I danced, and we all laughed together a lot. As Gara and I started to leave all the girls came running up and asked for our autograph...we signed our names on at least 10 pieces of paper...hilarious! I knew I would be famous someday...and in India when you are a blonde girl from America you are instantly a movie star/or a goddess:) ok, next stop...Pushkar Gara and I took a 6-hour bus ride to Pushkar, which consisted of some standing, some squishing, and some pushing. I was glad to have made a friend with a 17 year-old Indian girl who was learning English, which worked in my advantage. On the flip side, of course I was fancied by a few men whom I had to tell to stop staring after a while...3 hours was my edge point! The ride was beautiful and coming into different areas was great. filled with exotic food, exotic people, pockets of chaos and of course your typical Indian farm zoo scene: cows, dogs, monkeys, goats, pigs and birds all hanging out together in piles of trash or in the middle of the road. We were told a lot of negative things about Pushkar...but as we all know its better to see things for yourself. We got scooped up on the bus with this couple (who we kept running into in Bundi) and were placed at a nice lodge with a "swimming pool". Its funny, people from the lodges get on the bus a few stops before the last, chat with you and then show you photos of their lodge. This one looked like a five star with balcony, marble floors, pool, etc. We checked it out and decided to stay but lets just say it was a 3 star...and the pool was dried up. After settling we wondered our way down to the holy lake that the town surrounds itself with. Temples and ghats encircle the lake and then around the outside are endless shops and restaurants and more temples. There was a remarkable peaceful feeling as we walked down to the lake, was taken by the architecture of all the white buildings, and stood in silence as pilgrims came down to pray and bathe in the waters. It was very quiet and welcoming and instantly we were glad we decided to come to Pushkar. The next 1/2 hour or so we took some time for silence, I soaked my feet in the water, and once again prayed for all the people in my life that I love, all those who are suffering, all the animals, the trees, living things, the earth, and the children of the earth. The rest of the day we wondered around the lake and found ourselves welcomed into a temple for sunset. On one side of the lake construction was taking place where the goal is to expand the river and allow for clean water to enter which will help to save the fish. We were amazed at the hard working women, once again, who were carrying gigantic bowls of cement and rocks and water on their head or down an assembly line. We continued our way around and I’m not sure if it was the wind, a spirit, or just the nature of curiosity that exists in me but the next thing you know we found ourselves inside a temple and I was being guided around by a man who called himself a yogi guru. He was a little bit taller than me, had long brown dread locks, a HUGE smile where you could see his heart shining through, and the most gently presence to him. If I was ten years younger I probably would have fallen in love with him and moved into his temple:) Anyway he showed me around to the gardens, the mediation rooms, the alters and shrines, the spectacular view, and shared some amazing jellied fruit that was bright green, mouth watering, perfectly sweet treat. I was suppose to come back and get a jar to bring home but it never happen:( Well this peaceful place which housed a few men was a great place to enjoy the sunset and the settling of another day in India. The next day at sunrise I took a hike up to a temple near by. The name of the temple was translated into the meaning "to erase time" the purpose or vision or goal of the temple and its' God was that your body will ultimately fill up with light in the future and that all material things do not matter. In simple words that is what a man explained to me on the way down. The temple was a favorite spot of mine to do a sunrise hike to, sit, mediate, listen to the chanting, do some yoga, and embrace all the spirit of Pushkar. Later that day after pulling ourselves out of the shops we rented some bikes again. We took a long HARD bike ride where the landscape was beautiful...of course. It reminded me a bit of Arizona/new Mexico. On the way the road was being paved - Indian style - which means by hand, by women, bucket by bucket, stone by stone, rake by rake. We found our way to a small village where we sat and had Chai with a man that had 2 teeth spread out and sticking out, wore sunglasses, and broken down turban, a leathered face and a huge smile. This man has traveled all over the world, speaks many languages, and lives a happy life full of abundance and w/o any money. Next to him, sitting in white, with a red turban, wearing a skinny face with two little balls on his cheekbones and a perfectly round button nose was another man. He was just as dirty sitting in a small shack on the side of the road, sipping the same chai and was one of India’s millionaires. You would have no idea...interesting huh? There is a whole chapter that could be written just about that! After out bike ride we headed back and stopped at a Shiva temple. Once again, my heart was tugged by a guru with a huge smile and a huge heart. We took many photos together, shared lots of smiles, and swapped emails and addresses. Gara was glad that I was older and wiser (and engaged) otherwise by this point I may have surrendered all my belongings and my life to one of this fascinating, heart breaking, joyful, bright, and endearing men that for a moment I shared in the celebration of the world, spirit and universal love. Gara was great for researching and exploring around to find great places to eat. We loved the honey and spice as it had a menu with salads, tofu, brown rice, a variety of veggies including mushrooms and sauces made of figs and soy sauce. We ate slowly and carefully meals here and was also ecstatic to find a little old lady selling slices of fresh baked pies...our favorite, apple crumble! Other days in Pushkar consisted of visiting some temples (the serenity and pureness of some have been altered because of shops and cafes) and I took a traditional dance class. The class made me realized how much I missed dancing, how important it is to me and the next time I travel I will take more dance classes - and also in the near future. The flip side of Pushkar is that it is an absolute paradise for shopping and eating. As I knew my trip was ending I splurged and embraced all the dazzling silver, clothing, fabrics and more. Even perhaps found a great accessory that I think the folks back in the US will like to buy...especially festival goers!!!! Pushkar was my last stop in Rajisthan and also the place where Gara and I went our separate ways. It was so great to travel with a woman who helped me stay present, listened to all my thoughts and emotions, shared LOTS of laughs with, and who I could offer listening and support to as well. A dear friend that I know I will stay in touch with as she is just starting her travels and I am finishing them up...and we both have great exciting futures ahead of us!

Bundi

loveandjoy — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 01:47:00 GMT

Bundi is described in the lonely planet as a tiny little indian village that you wished you just happened to stumble upon....well i have a theory that lonely planet is ruining the world...but anyway it is a much quieter, quainter, mellower place then most cities and areas i have visited in rajisthan.

The people there are less pushy and very friendly, the streets have less cars which means less horns, and there is such a great variety of sights and places to see.

We arrived to Bundi at 5 am after an overnight sleeper bus. Your "sleeper" is more like a coffin with windows. When we arrived of course there were a few lodge owners waiting to sell their place. We arrived, put our bags down and wondered our way up to the palace and fort. It was the perfect time to explore what seemed like an old deserted fortress. the sun was rising, NOBODY was there except birds, puppies, and monkeys. THe silence was incredible, each turn was unique, the architecture was glorious, and the views were great! After some time we made our way back downb and had some breakfast.

Usually after traveling your first day you walk around the new town in a daze....as we did. we found our way through markets, got a motorcyle ride from a friendly bundi local man, saw MANY MANY temples - every 3 buildings is a temple - saw the lake and then had a home cooked meal at our guest house. off to bed early....after the best desert ever: Cookie crumble, a scoop of icecream, some cashnuts all sitting in a big bowl of melted chocolate fudge. a true treat for the weary travelor!

the next day we decided to rent bikes...the absolute BEST way to see India, at least in Rajisthan. We hopped on our bikes (which get worse in every town) and made our way out of Bundi. We rode past a beautiful lake and then saw a place with high walls, many tall old yellow stone structures with dome tops and open walls and pillars, and a gate that was closed. Well determinded me HAD to see what was inside so I scaled the wall around some bushes and thorns and just as i was going to jump down the grounds keeper (dressed in full bright orange cloth with turban and all) stops me, laughs at me, and then opens the gate to the mysterious deserted land. We were in awwww wondering around what seemed like a discovered land that nobody has set foot in for centuries. We learned that these tall OLD VACANT structures (or figured out so not %100 sure) were tombs. It was so peaceful there, the trees were very big and old, and the woods went back far and deep. The man was generous and kind as he lead us around, aloud us to take pictures, and as we paid respect for his time and the dead.

Back on the bikes we went as the land opened up into nothingness, farms, hills, old fort walls, and my personal favorite - big old brightly painted and decorated tractors rolling by with a full stereo system and HUGE speakers tied on to the front...like the same JBL speakers i had in highschool. And of course they had the music BLARING loud, breaking the silence, as 4 to 5 Indian men listen and drive their tractor with this rico suave kind of attitude. Every time they passed i just laughed. The ride was fabulouse, the excercise felt great and the breeze was fresh and oh the green was WOW so beautiful... i love the farms!

So we found our way to a village after about 15km or so of riding. lets just say that the village was full of excitement and smiles when we approached. everybody came to see us and gather around and follow us around. we went from fruit stand, to chai stand, to food stand, to saree shop to bracelet shop and was welcomed and gazed at and smiled at and ahhhed at each step of the way. When we first got there it was absolutely hillarios we just stood there and i had the camera filming video as crowds of people just surrounded us. it was like we were movie stars!! This one spicy older women just got a kick out of us and checked up on us each shop we went to.

the chai shop was filled with men just staring...i bet the chai guy had the best sales in months, we should have got commission! And we had a great little potato snack with chilly sauce and some fun sweet. It was a great rejuvination for the ride back. On the way out the children chased us and smiled and we waved good by and started our return journey. We stopped for a nap at this garden spot on the lake (hopped another fence) and was woken up by a parade of bands and dazzling dancing women...this is the start of a wedding that will go on for hours and days and will be a part of our morning evening and night for the next 24hrs. As the parade goes from one village picks up the husband and he rides his horse back to go find his wife. Firecrackers, instruments, lights, noise, singing, and many people are all apart of this event. It is TOTAL madness. It went through bundi 3 times...because there were 3 weddings in one. Everything stops when it goes by too, internet, business, your cooked meal, conversation, any thought and sleeping. and all you can do is just outragously laugh at it and dance with it and film it or go completely insane at the chaos of energy and stimulation of all the senses that get frazzled and tickeled while this occurs around you for 10 minutes every hour.

BUndi also offered a nice park, some interesting meals, great little winding alleys of blue homes and shops and mellow indian residence. the fruit and vegetable market was small and sweet and we enjoyed trying fruits and veggies and sitting on the side watching...and i had the best lunch EVER at this small little spot outside the tourist market of fresh made sauce and potato cake and veggies with a perfect mix of sweet, sour, savory and spicy. and a perfect mix of textures too.....with a great fresh papya shake where you could actually taste the flower......

so much more i'm sure happened in relaxing mellow bundi (except for the night of the wedding)...like when i tried on a turban while the wild wedding was passing - it was a great laugh!!!!!

oh....one of the best chai's ever sitting in a little shop at 5 in the morning. fresh ginger and old friendly happy bundi men wrapped up in their blankets and hats reading their newspaper and smiling as the shop owner carefully set up for the day (he sold drinks and snacks, even had Mt. Dew!) and blessed his shop - a sacred place....it was a perfect welcome to the town and a great way to end this blog entry!

Next Stop PUSHKAR

Utaipur

loveandjoy — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:46:00 GMT

Well with 45 minutes left until i leave for the bus i'll try to finish up Rajisthan - edit later:)

I left Jodphur on a bus to Utaipur (i think) on my own and Gara was meeting me ion a day. I arrived in Udaipur with not much sleep and for a change i had a guest house sorted out. I arrived and got a rickshaw, was given a room (that i later changed b/c it smelled so bad) and made my way up to the roof top to be pleasently suprised by lakes, mountains, beautiful white architecture, hills, palaces, monkeys, temples, silence and the sun rising. I enjoyed the silent morning and had some breakfast. Which initially had goat in it and I had to return it for some veggies:)

Utaipur had a nice feeling to it. Although some of the lakes were dried up, it was another city with a feeling of its own. After freshening up I wondered the streets to learn the city and see what the day would offer. I was pretty dazed from traveling and found myself following chanting and colors and glitter and wondered into this huge holy hindu templ that just so happened to be beginning the celebrations of the Holi Festival. I removed my shoes, bought some flowers for offerings, and join the festivities. A man walked me through the first few rituals and i sttod and absorbed all the faith and spirit and tears and song that was happening all around me. I stood there until it was my turn to offer flowers to SHiva and drink the holy water. I then sat on the side and watched as all the men walked through ceremonies and the women sat in the middle on the floor with drums and sang songs. I decided to join the women on the floor (also gently parting from the man who toured me through) and ate and sang and swayed and cried with them. IT was a ahhhhhing experience. I must have stayed at the temple for at least an hour. I peacefully left feeling lighter than when i walked in their and my heart was moved in a different way.

I wondered about the winding streets and found my way to a rooftop resteraunt guest house for lunch. It was a relaxing envivornment and i quickly made friends with ownof the owners. we sat on comfy cushions and chatted for a while and by the end of the day i have taken a nap there, had a cooking lesson, and agreed to move guesthouses the next day. Lucky for Gara she had a room waiting for her upon her arrival!!!

Gara arrived and we walked about the streets, I ran into some friends from Varanassi, and then inspired by them we rented bikes. This soon became one of mine a Gara's favorite activity to do in India. The bikes opened up worlds for us as we found our way to villages, friendly people and beautiful landscapes while getting away from touristy areas and getting in some good cultural excercise.

Aside from having some delisious meals, nice sunset walks around the palace, great shopping excursions, another fun outting was a trip to an Indian home about a 1/2 outside the city. We were kindly invited to the house of a tailor who the girls from france (i did the camel safari with) were invited to. THe tailor saw all of us having breakfast and invited us as well.

4 of us hopped on the back of 4 Indian men motorbikes and drove off to the middle of nowhere...the home was surrounded by lush green grass, thick trees, cattle, farms, and the home was kept by his beautiful mother. The day was quiet, we walked around the villages, watched his wife and mother cook us an AMAZING traditional meal that consisted of at least 100 chapatis and sat around and ate. The meal was prepared in a traditional way which basically was on top of a fire. The day was relaxing, the air was fresh, the people were very kind, the boys were silly, the children were happy, and our bellys were full and our hearts were warmed by all the geniouristy. We drove back at sunset as the full moon was rising over their home temple. We stopped for prayer and thanks and continued home.

As things go sometimes in India....a domino effect sometimes occur...and lets just say after another day i realized it was time to move on. WIth time running out i know i have to keep moving so i can get to certain places that really interest me and by this time gara and i have a great traveling partnership/friendship growing so after i flipped a coin i decided to hop on a train to Bundi (or was it a bus) a small Indian Village...and yippie Gara came with!!!!

Next stop Jodphur

loveandjoy — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:05:00 GMT

Right now I am in Delhi after a 12 hour or so busride. Later today i am getting a bus - 12 hrs - to Dharamsala. I am back in Delhi a little refreshed, with a good attitude and ready to face it although i decided instead of working my way through the people and madness and beggers and such I am going to take the day and retreat to an internet cafe (one of the few quiet places in India) and catch up a bit.

One more note about Jaismler is that i peaked into a small square whole in a metal wall and found a school. Gara and I went in and visited the students and classroom. it is wild to see their TINY classrooms with bars in the windows and their view is wild...its an old fort. its like they live and learn inside a sand castle. i noticed that there were a lot more younger children then older children. and they were excited to show us each of their classrooms and have many photos taken. its great. in India, all the children wear uniforms to school in traditional punjabi dress style. they all look so sweet...especially the girls in pigtails!

next train stop......Jodphur

Johhnie and I arrived in Jodphur, known as the blue city, at 5 am. No plan of course and no hotel booked but some ideas. We went to a place that was suggested, negotiated a price, and then left our bags to see what the city of Jodphur is like waking up. Just as we started to wander the Mosques began to wake up and start their morning prayers....loud singing over megaphones. The streets were filled with cows and dogs and villagers who were having their moring spits while the chai men started their fires and we made our way up to the hillside for the sunrise. On the way i saw this tree that was filled with thousands of little round birds. it was an incredible dream.

We found ourselves at the Hill View lodge where the owner was awake. He invited us up for Chai to show us the view and we began to watch the sun rise and see the blue city pop out. Behind us was the fort. We were just at the foot of it. Absolutely Stunning. We decided to move and stay at this lodge instead and we moved onto the roof and had the best room in Jodphur for just 50 ruppees, $1.. The weather was perfect, the view was spectacular, the stars were bright, and we each made our little room area and a common area to eat and hang out at. It was a nice home for a day, great access to all the town attractions, and quiet as it was above the city.

The fort had an audio tour that was great. it explained all the history and set the stage nicely for living in the past as you explored and wondered through the fort. Jodphur didnt have too much more to offer. I really enjoyed the markets as it was a real indian market not geared towards tourist too much. It was great to wonder the streets, eat on the side of the road, get some indian dresses made, have a partner to yoga on the roof with at sunrise ( a women from california), and reconnecting with Gara - who ended up being my traveling partner/sister/buddy/friend - for the next couple weeks...was the main reason probably for coming to jodphur.

the guest house i stayed at was wonderful as it had lots of children to play with (i visited their school), ran by great strong and sassy good hearted women , had some henna done, and i loved the morning as you could hear 10 - 20 different mosques and temples singing and chanting their morning prayer.

Next Stop......Udaipur. The city of lakes

Rajisthan - take 6

loveandjoy — Sun, 15 Feb 2009 03:30:00 GMT

I'll edit later: first have to make sure it gets saved

So much time has passed since i have last written - and my last entry got erased TWICE - but i know when i return to the US it will be harder to recreate in words all that i have experienced and being in the context is more inspiring....with a little caffeine to get me going:) And just so you all know I am heading back to the US on March 4th. I am going to spend almost a month with my family and then head back to the CO to my friends and where Kurtis and I will start to build the next step of our lives...which will somehow involve traveling regularly:) Its true what they say....its a bug that never leaves you!

Right now I am in Pushkar, the 6th place I have visited in Rajisthan. Rajisthan is a marvelouse place and it is so diversed with Indian culture, colors, people, spirituality, and thick with the colors, smells and taste of India! I am happy that I made the train to Jasilmer from Delhi....because after going to the wrong station ad having to run to the right one I was convinced if I didn't make the train that I would surely give up on India and get the next plane back to the US. (I was a bit tired - emotionally and physically - from delhi)Well, needless to say I am SO HAPPY I made the train...i literally set foot onto it and it started to move! It took me another hour to actually get to the right seat!

When I finally settled into the train I sat back and watched out the window while settling my breath...and my heart. The sights were the harshest i have seen yet. The slums along the rail was beyond belief. The piles and rows of homes looked like broken down cardboard boxes kept up by mud and sticks with roofs covered in plastic and dirty cloths and tires and rubbish and black tarps. the doors looked like an old sardine cans. All around were heaps and heaps of trash, dead and dry bushes and trees, goats and pigs and cows and dogs, and the dirtiest people you have ever seen with bright white eyes. Their hair was mangeld, their teeth rotted out, and they wondered around, went to the toilet, sat by trash fires, spit, stood in their doorways staring out, or just sat on the hill side watching the trains go by. The trees had dirty clothing hanging and drying, tangled kites made from plastic bags and the layers of rubbish all thorughout their homes/world that was beyond belief. I have seen many many poor places and homeless but this was the worst i have ever seen - i cried

I settled into the train and woke up a little more refreshed and a thought to switch my attitude. I knew I only had a little over a month left to travel and i wasnt going to let the tuff times of india and traveling alone as women bring me down and i was going to embrace and enjoy and keep my heart open. Get back to my usual self:) The night before i saw a single traveling girl in the next seat. we both smiled and just knew we werent up for chatting but grateful to know there is another single traveling women near by. Actually, I saw this women on my flight from Kochi to Delhi and on the bus. She wasnt approachable until this morning.

When the train stopped I hopped off and ran into an aussie travelor - johnny. Johnny is the person that gave me the extra push the night before to get on the train. By the end of the morning Johnny, The girl - gara: spanish, and myself were 3 single travelors joining forces and heading into Jasilmer to set off on the famous camel safari. But first we have to get to the town. Gara had a place set up with lodging safari and pick up so i joined her. It was crazy when we got off the train as we got swormed by 100's of indian men who were trying to sell us there camel safari and their lodge. It was like we were a fresh pile of shit and 100's of flies came at us. Layers and layers of men surrounded us as they pushed and pulled and shoved cards in our faces and screamed their business name in our ears. It was absolute madness and i am glad i started the day with a new attitude because i just stood thier and absorbed the madness and just laughed. Next time i will start to sign my name on pieces of paper for autographs - which i have actually done in Rajisthan!

We found the car that Gara reserved and hopped in. After the 3 of us settled into a room we wondered into the fort of Jasilmer. 3 single travelors witht the same passion and best friend - our camera. Jasilmer was picture perfect. It was like wondering inside a huge, intricately detailed sand castle with smotth turns, carved designs, beautiful colors, and wonderous people dressed in colors adn turbans and jingleing sparkling jewelry (as i am now!) WOnderful musical instruments playing, great little alleys and buildings to explore, and a feeling of magic while walking through the inside of a story book or fairytale. As we wondered and enjoyed the shades and shadows of the sun moving we found ourselves in the gutters of the fort. No one else was there and it was magnificent and peaceful and straight out of a national geographic movie of another time and place that no more exists. We soon realized we were stuck and the only way out was through a small hole in the fort that led into a stable filled with cows. A climb through, some dodging and hoping to miss a pile of manure, we climbed out the other side (difficult for short legs) and cleaned our feet off. The owner gave us a smile and a curios look and we made our way out to a main gate. We wondreed through the markets trying fruit and veggies and such and realized we had no idea where we were. As we asked the locals a man knew where our guest house was and we hopped onto a motorbike and 4 of us drove off into the sunset for 20+ minutes. How did we all fit on a motorbike? Well, the driver sat on my lap!!!!!

The next day we set off for the camel safari. 2 days and one night in the desert. 6 travelors, 5 indian men, seven camels, and a young boy. We took a jeep to meet our camels. My first camel was rocket. Lucky for me rocket was in heat and at the smell of a female he would make this wild sound - like chewbacka from star wars - and his tounge would fall out the side of his mouth and blow up like a pink balloon covered in slobber while giving off the smell of a 100 year old dog's breath. Aside from that the scenery was beautiful as we saw herds of sheep, camel, rundown old villages, and colors of green and purple and sage and white and yellow, The breeze was perfect and riding a camel while it is trotting is pretty bumpy but a fun way to pick up the pace after strutting along for a few hours. We had a lunch break under a beautiful big tree and i help make Chapattis (indian bread) and ate great food with my new camel safari friends from France, hong kong, australia and spain. AS we continued on we rode for a while to reach the sandunes. I had a surreal moment as i was trotting on a camel through the desert with an indian boy on the back while approaching the sandunes and seeing the flowing patterns and hills of pure smooth beautiful brown orange sand while the sun was setting...in india. it was like a dream. This is where we would spend the night.

We wondered about and made fresh prints on the sand, took many photos of course, did log rolls and watched the sun set. It was beautiful but i will admit that they did not compar to colorados sandunes!

The evening consisted of delicious food, great laughs, a camp fire, indian love songs, and the stillness of the desert. Laying outside on the soft sand under the stars was absolutely stunning and so peaceful. A great break from the madness and sounds and chaos of India. As the moon set behind the dunes the stars had quite a show to put on as each second another one or two fell. In the morning I awoke and wondered up the dunes and watched the sunrise as I sat in stillness with the desert.

The second day on the camel was a little rougher b/c of a soar body but the sights were incredible. The sage greens against the deep purples with a brush of yellow and wondering herds of fluffy white sheep. I have never seen such landscape and i was absolutely awwed at the ever changing beauty among the hills and valleys of the desert - one of the many times in the past 6 months that a tear was shead for the magic and beauty that mother earth shares with us.

We rode our camels through the hot day...sometimes i rode sideways...and found our way into villages and then back to the jeep that would take our soar bodies into Jasilmer. We all celebrated with a nice Indian meal and some sweets! The next day I awoke and knew it was time to move on from Jasilmer. Although the town was very beautiful, there is a tourist side of it pushing you to buy all sorts of dazzling things...i knew i would have plenty of more chances. Gara decided to stay one more day to get a good night sleep and Johnnie and I hopped on a train with purchsed tickets of "special seatring" and head to Jodphur.

ok - this is the 3rd time writing all thjis so hopefully it will save this time.

more soon.....

Delhi - Sweet and Sour

loveandjoy — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 21:54:00 GMT

I only have a few minutes until i get ready to hop on a train to Rajistan...but SO MUCH has happened in Delhi ; good bad hard magical and ugly - that i have to put it all somewhere before a new place comes into my mind and world - editing later

i arrived in Delhi after a delayed plane ride from Kochi - no bug suprise - but the unique thing about this situation was that our pilot who was from california noticed a fluid coming out behind one of the wheels on the plane while parked in Mombai. Lucky for us he noticed the leaking brake and entainting and scary as it was i got to watch 6 indians replace our left brake as we sat on the plane for 2 hours - lots of time to contemplate life:)

I hopped on a plane to Delhi b/c i noticed my Visa is shorter then i thought and rajistan and dharmasala can not be missed before i leave India...but first Delhi

Ugly, Dirty, friendly, beautiful, hard, challenging, wild Delhi. I met 2 girls - 19 + who i took the bus with to the backpacker area. It was like a rundown dirty supre poor dingy Kho Saun Road. Anythign adn everything. I showed them how you dont need to book a 1200 ruppee room and we became roommates and i offered tips on traveling to Nepal and they lent an ear for listening as i was making life decissions and plans for whats next.

We settld into our 350 ruppee room and owndered about. the girls wree fun and free and curious as we tried street food and wandered the markets at night. the city was so alive it was invigortating and playful and refreshing. you could tast and smell india relly strongly! we had some good cheap eats and then later settled down in a little nook of a coffee momo (good to see) house. while sitting the the begining of a hard chain of events happened as this women fll over and had a long strong epiletic ceisure. it was very intense and lots of people were around backpakers and her friends helping, massages, trying to bring her back, and advising one another on what to do. i wanted to go over and help ..but too many people of course...from a far i sat a sent her bright light and healing thoughts.

The next day I got up and wondered out of the hotel onto the streets. i was excitd to be out of the qwuiet south and quickly got scooped up by a nepali man who bought me tea and offered to be my porter. of course i denuied and made my way on a wondered about with an idea of the area i wanted to go. soon AGASIN i got scooped up by a "school boy" who walked me to a Sikh temple that was out of this world. i walked in and it was big, white, marbel, dome buiolding, with a large rectangle holy pool in the middle. it was an awwwing experience. the boy told me about his supposed life i bought him lunch (i was happy the temple was 1 of the 3 things i wrote down i wanted to see) and soon after being drug to different shops and offices and bookstores for his needed schoolbook i realized that i have been snooked as i paid for a hindi english dictionary for him and his exam. Oh Well....lesson learned.

i was a bit weary as i walked back through the markets and grabbed the metro. found my way back to the backpacker area and had some refreshing tea break. i walked back to the vegetable market area took a refreshing stab at the day and took photos of all the poeple and colors and it was really fun and my spirit was revived. I was calmy walking back to my area a bit dazed out and i got scooped up again by a "fortune teller" who told me i was smart, happy, spririt, courages, and have good energy bu this one line on my farhead shows that i am a little insane. the next thign you know i am having tea AGAIN pointing to things on a card, holing little papers in my hand as he predicts what i write and tells me i think to much and manages to get me to put money in his book. i was dazzled and awed and thrown off gusrd all at ne...again snooked...or maybe not who knows.

The day left me tired and weak as traveling after 5 months or so can do to you anyway. i weakly bought to women and their babies chipati and then found my way back to a quiet resteraunt where nobody could bug me hassle me trick me or stare at me. Delhi is the hardest place i have been alone where i am approached every 2 seconds. i try to stay positive and happy and friendly and joking as i believe in treating all humans the same but it sure does get tiring especioally b/c most of the timne they just want your money or your body.

Well needless to say i had a good night sleep and couragiously went out again today. you have to take each day and moment fresh in India. I made my way to India's largest Mosque...which was no the most direct way as nobody can be direct in India...and while in the mosque i climbred up the top of a huge tower and glanced over this crowded tuff yet amazing city. frrling weary from the mosque people taking yet more money from me a man rfom oregan came to the top of the tower and my whole day changed!

..running out of time...long story short he was a kind man who was in india for 2 weeks hired a car to take him around and i ended up joining him. it was so refreshing and relieving and it was a lot of fun to be able to let down my guard. AND i got to see the other sights i wrote down. the lotus temple was absolutely breath taking and interacting with india was fun again as i had a big old man from oregon and and indian driver to make a buffer zonew. Just the rebuild of energy and spirit and strength that i needed to get back on the train one more time before making my way back home:)

Ft. Kochi: Short and Sweet

loveandjoy — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 03:11:00 GMT

Ft. Kochi is a simple place and goes along well with Kerala's laid back environment that is built around tourism . When I arrived here after a neasy going -figure out the train - experience I find a cute little room/homestay/guestlodge and made my way down to the fishing nets. These are ancient old nets that are from china and still use today. Once again I felt like i was in the past about 500 years or I've walked right into a national geographic episode.

Being on my own again made it real easy for me to quickly make friends with all the working people and locals. The fishermen, net men, market men, sales men, and the lovely ladies that run the homestay and sold ghlittery things. I spent the day going from net pier to net pier, having tea with the locals, help pull nets (hard work), look at all the crazy fish, wonder up and down what is left of the beach from the tsunamai, and hear all the Indians woes of how poor they are and how there are no fish and no tourists. I wondered a bit on my own and found my self in the middle of 300+ children at one point where they all were laughing and shkaing my hand and saying hello how are you. It was funny and a bit overwhelming at times.

The first evening ended with a cultural dance of a man painted in red mud and covered in rice dancing around with lit up palms on him screaming...quite bizarre.

My guest house had family visiting who had the most beautiful special little baby girl that was just surrounded by angels and bright light. I spent lots of time palying with ehr and holding her and watching India's version of Dancing with the starts with the ladies. I have to admit that I have not had much sleep for some reason but the room is perfect for a quiet shadey rooftop getaway or and early morning yog/meditation seesion and some roomade porridge.

My friend Ben who I know from Trekking is in Ft. Kochi and we caught up yesterday. Defintily the only other exciting thing here besides the fishing nets:) It was greta to catch up and share stories and watch another sunset together in a different country. The next day We wondered around, took a ferry to another island, found our way through the back alleys of villages, went to what lonely planet referred to as Kochi's best kept secret beach (it was lame) and had a bread - porata nad dosa and uttapam - and chutney filled lunch. It was A well earned meal after hours of walking, ferries, buses, and some more walking.

The afternoon I spent at a tea house and met some wonderful travelors including a 76 yearold women who was absolutley BEAUTIFUL.

Now I know it is time to move on as I wonder around in cirlces in this little not so indian spot....I kow because every here knows my name and there is nothing else to take a picture of.

Tomorrow I'm off to the Amma's Ashram.

Kovalam post Kurtis - some things worth mentioning

loveandjoy — Sun, 25 Jan 2009 14:07:00 GMT

I admit I was very sad when Kurtis left - my heart felt like it was ripped out when he turned away and got into the rickshaw. Kovalam was a place to regroup, nurse a cold, and have a few moments to remind me of the magic of India and the wonders of traveling alone.

While Kurtis was there he wondered into a man's art studio/shop and with in minutes we absolutely fell in love his him and his work. Raju was his name. We spent a lot of hours there and money:) and Raju inspired us with Ideas and inspired Kurtis to do even more art. When Kurtis left I spent lots of time at Raju's shop were he offered my a safe and warm place to shed a tear, told me jokes, shared stories, invited me to his families home, and always greeted me with a warm smile and made sure i was happy each day. He still stays in touch with me, makes sure I am safe, and we may meet up in March for the festival of colors in Pushkar where his family is. He is a blessing!

I met another women in the labriynth walkways behind kovalam beach who had a beauty shop. I sat and talked with her and her friend for a while about our new president. It was the night of the innaugriation and she invited me to her home to watch it. I later went to her house by motorbike about 6 miles away and she took me down to this beautiful lake with her 2 young and beautiful boys to watch the sunset. We skipped stones and talked about different types of cars and biikes and boolywood movies and hollywood stars and food. I walked through the village and was quickly surrounded by MANY villagers shaking my hand, handing me flowers, and asking me questions. There were farms of unique vewgetables of all colors and big poster boards of the villages favorite bollywood star. WILD. Later her husband came home and we all chatted and ate chips and bread and jelly and sprite (special occasions call for special food). He was Estatic to have a women from America sit in his home. They really wanted me to spend the night but I prefered to go back to my hotel mainly because I felt a cold coming on and needed a good night sleep. I did not go back and visit like I thought I would BUT if I return to Kovalam beach ever I will!

The last day I ate some fruit under a umbrella on the beach that I bought from the local fruit ladies. I sat there and a little girl of one of the shop owners came and sat with me. we have randomly been playing with eachother here and there in the past few days. I brought her a little salad and we sat and played silly games with eachother. I was reminded once again how much I love children and I have decided to try to start visiting schools and orphanages while I am traveling and keeping a journal of it.

I wondered out of the tourist bubble on the last day and went to the other beach for sunset. Though I would get my feet wet for the next day travels back into the real world. It was were all the Indian tourist go. I shook some hands and had my photo taken along the way. I found a spot and watched three women play in the water joyfully as the sun fell into the arabian sea. they were like teenage girls experiencing the touch of water, the sound of the ocean for the first time, and tickled by its energy. A women sat next to me and told me they were sisters. We talked the few words we had in common. I was suprised later to find out that the women were all at least 45. It made my heart smile to see how youthful they were and how they loved each other soooo much. It made me think of all the beautiful women in my life and how strong we all are and how important it is no matter what life brings you to play and have fun. Later a man that was traveling wiht all the women told me i was luky because women in India are not allowed to travel alone. I AM LUCKY!!!!

Once again.....thanks for reading.

More Later:)

A few random notes about India....

loveandjoy — Fri, 23 Jan 2009 20:52:00 GMT

before I head back out into the real India world

When you order food expect to have a plate for every item, glass, all your 8 pieces of silver wear, and you napkins too.

Going to see a bollywood film is an adventure in itself. Kurtis and I found ourselves caught up in a wild dramatic love story and wanting the soundtrack in the end. The indians cheer often through out the film and get extremely teenage boyish silly when there is a suggestion of sex or kissing. There were many times we forgot that we were in India watchinhg a movie in another language...thats how caught up in it we were.

Reading menues are tons of fun...India definitly needs an editor. FOr example Craps and stowberris = Crepes and strawberries and Coockies = cookies.

And India tries very hard to impress you and make sure you get your ruppees worth if you go to a "fancy" restaraunt. My favorite has been the plastic lid with a straw on the top of a fancy beer glass. And the places that have immaculate marbled floor and wood carvings and fancy chairs but the dirtiest walls ever....always a good laugh.

Everyplace has vendors chanting their goods at you and each place has something original and their own character thats perfect for a cartoon.

Tomorrow I'm am off to Kochi to see a trekking buddy.

to the tip and back

loveandjoy — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 03:15:00 GMT

After a day or 2 of rest in Kovalam beach...where you actually see some Indians, we decided to take a trip to the tip of India to have one more adventure before Kurtis leaves. Here the Bengal Bay, Arabian Sea, and the Indian ocean meet. It is a place of high spiritual signicance for many pilgrims and seekers and hindu's and such. Since Kurtis and I are running out of time and wanting to keep things simple we actually hired a car/driver and booked a hotel to head down there and watch the sun set and rise.

On the way we stopped at this great little market that was at the border of 2 states. Old women were selling there fish under umbrellas and men sat on top of their piles of vegetables. Everybody was poor, and weatherd, and desperate for people to buy stuff. Kurtis and I split for a little and he towered over all the people and I quickly got surrounded by Indian women and young boys taking my hand, playing with my hair, saying things to me while smiling wobbling their heads and clicking their tounges. It was a crowded market but it felt so great to be in the midsts of real indian culture...not a white man or women in sight.

When we arrived at the tip we got situated and grounded and got rid of our clingy taxi driver. We wondered around and found our way through the markets and pass the temples and to the tip of India were people gathered, swam, prayed, bathed, hung out, ate popcorn and cotten candy, rode a decorated horse, climbed rocks and watched the ocean and the sun. At times we were more the attraction then the setting of the sun and while we were waiting we spent time with a little street boy who find a soft spots in our hearts and Kurtis bought him an ice cream. The child did not know what to do! Many photos were taken...of us, and once again we got to experience a beautiful and magical sunset in India.

The next morning we got up at 5 am and strolled back to the sight were MANY MANY MANY people gathered to watch the sun rise. We sipped chai and sat amongst the Indians as we stared out into the ocean towards a small island that was the home to India's version of the statue of liberty. the sky began to change colors and people started to stir the silence came and then a whoosh and an awww of energy came over the crowd as the sun started to present itself in the sky. It was so wild because at first it outlined some clouds bright pink and it looked like the sky was cracking or a child's drew a squiggly line accross the sky with a pink marker. The sun finally appeared and everybody cheered and clapped and sang and went down to the water to bless themselves with the oceans water. We went down to do the same and on the way i got surrounded by tons of young indian men that wanted there picture with me. They totally caught me off guard...but in the end I too splashed water on my far head.

You feel like a movie star in India some times...especially when they find out you are american

The most Unique Birthday EVER

loveandjoy — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 21:04:00 GMT

Kurtis and I set foot on our new home for 2 days. A nice looking "rice barge" boat that came equipped with a open aired eating area, TV, steroe, two decks, a nice bedroom (best decorated one yet), bathroom, and 3 Indian men: the captain, the chef, and the overseer/translator. The boats are mainly made out of bamboo and they are all built by hand.

We set off to the backwaters where initially you are surrounded by lots of other houseboats....a parking lot in the water. The waterways are amazing. They are like streets and rodeways and alleys but water instead and this is how people get from village to village to friends to schools to shops to farms and so forth. Because we booked the boat for 2 days soon we were off the beaten path and on our own in the backwaters. Our crew seemed excited to be doing a different route and our chef quickly brought us some lemonaid and some kerali snacks. We put on some Hindi music, I danced around the boat, and we made efforts to befriend the boat crew so everybody felt good and the vibe on the boat was positive. I was chattiong with the crew and mentioned having seafood or prawns for dinner. the next thing you know the boat pulls up to a fish vendor (anywhere in the world people are trying to make money) and i bought 2 prawns that were bigger than lobsters.2 KGs The chef was excited to have the oppertunity to cook them up.

The day continued on and Kurtis and I sat together watching a real life national geographic film take place right before our eyes. Everything was so beautiful and wonderous and colorful and we stayed away from drawing, and writing and taking photos to stay in the moment together. It was so incredible to watch the world unfold. To see the birds, the village women washing, the children coming home from school, the fisherman with their ancient contraptions, the trees and fruit and animals, the simple lives, fresh air, drifting waters, and the silence. The boat stopped at a nice shady area for lunch and the chef brought out the beginning of a series of amazing colorful 8 course delicious meal. Again the boat set off...with full bellies now.

It was so wonderful to share this with my love and on my birthday....perfect! We were so excited that for 2 days we dont have to do anything or get anywhere or make any decissions. When it was time for sunset the captain found a great spot to watch the sunset where the water ways broke into several directions one of them being the Arabian Sea. Kurtis and I stood on the top balcony and watched the sun set with silloutes of fishermen and sparkling pink and orange reflections. We felt as if we were in the middle of the world and the silence and stillness that shined with the sunset was something that you could feel in your heart and taste in your mouth. We were completely breathless and speechless and embraced the beauty, our blessings, and each other. We came down from the top and got ready to go for a walk. My parents called my cell phone to wish me a happy birthday....at the perfect moment. it was out of this world to be on the phone with my parents while somewhere in the backwaters of India. BLESSINGS

That night for dinner we had the huge prawns, another beautiful meal, and we watched the moonrise (a day shy from being full). Kurtis and I laid at the top of the boat and watched the stars until the bugs began to block our view.

That evening we went to lay in our fortress room and get ready for what we hope would finally be a quiet night sleep after a perfect day. As we laid down we began to hear some squeaking and scratching up in the airconditioning unit. We wondered what it was and after a while realized that there were rats in the unit. the tails hanging out the back into our bathroom gave it away. I admit I was a little scared and we called the crew in . 3 Indian men in their Longi's (short wrapped cloth around their waste) some burlap sacks and a broom and dustpan were crowding in the bathroom trying to remove a rats nest. Kurtis thought it was hillarious and I was glad they were freed. When we realized that they were freshly born babies I said in good humor - ahhhh we have the same birthday!

The crew put the babies outside and kurtis and i with relief laid down and were proud of our good humor and positive attitude. 2 hours later.....

scratch scratch and then knaw knaw. in the walls, on the celing, above the bathroom. It was out of a horror film. There were many rats and there was nothing we could do. Wegot the crew again and they tapped on the walls but in the end we were stuck in the backlwaters with a rat infested boat. Kurtis and i laid there and stared at the walls just waiting to see a head pop through. I admit at one moment i totally lost it as i woke up in sweat and hearing rats everywhere. Kurtis stayed really calm and help me realize we couldnt do anything and i just sat there and began to meditate and chant to myself " Om mane padme Hom" and dozed in and out for the night with the light on and the rats knawing. They sounded huge and many and in the morning Kurtis came out and told the captain "today we go back to Allepey".

We decided to enjoy the day as we wouldnt get back until 5pm, try to lighten the air up with the dissapointed crew, we drew and enjoyed the views food and relaxation and tried to stay positive and in the moment...but we couldnt spend another night on the boat. It was sad to have the ride come to an end, it was hard to have a day of such extremes and it was dissapointing that the agency would not give us any of our money back and the crew said there were no babies. But in the end we knew we just had to keep moving forward, not get stuck in the feeling of being taking advantage of, being dissappointed, and being cheated. Oh the harshness of India. We left Allepey quietly and quickly, with our heads slightly down, and our hearts still hopeful for another adventure. We hopped on the bus to Kovalam. And to me it was still the most unique and magical birthday EVER!

Making our way to the cruise

loveandjoy — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 20:32:00 GMT

Hmmm...lots of catching up to do now that Kurtis has left ;(

I have some time to reflect and write and resettle into traveling alone.

After spending a few days at the beach and moving homes to more piece and quiet (Varkala has turned a little into a party spot) Kurtis and I took a train to Allepey. When we got to the station we weren't sure which car to get in let alone where our seats were at and as anything else goes in India when you ask someone a question they just point you into a direction even if they really do not know the answer. So, we were in the wrong cart and at first the ticket man told us we had to get off the train at the next stop...scary moment...but then he came back and gave us some seats. I got to sit with a family that probably has been on the train for a long time. I was new entertainment for them as they sat there and admired my Indian suit, my hair, my bindi, and my India Lonely Planet Book.YES I am slowly turning into an india:) in all honesty you get more respect when you dress in their suits and culture. The children had big bright smiles, all the women wobbled there heads and poked at me, and the youngest was placed on the table in from of me as an offering of a toy for me to play with as they equally offered me to her. I could tell they were saying "Look Susie. look at the white lady at our table, hewre have close look, wow check out her skin and eyes..." And, as always, there was a man (who was about 40 with a mustache stuck in a child's body) that sat accross from me and stared and smiled at me or as Kurtis would put it...undressed me with his eyes. Thankfully I had a book to put in front of my face to block eye contact for a few hours.

When we arrived in Allepey of course we didnt have a room booked up and the reason we were going there was to book a backwaters cruise for my Birthday. According to lonely planet it is the on "top 10 things to do before i die" list. So we got off the train and ask the rickshaw driver to take us to a hotel we found in the book. Its always best to just have them drop you off somewhere as if you know where you are going and you have a reservationand find a place on your own. it saves money and always gaurentees adventure. well the driver put us where he wanted to instead of us in hopes of some comission. After eating and figuring some things out by talking to other travelors we found our new home for a night or two.

We got to the lodge and regrouped. Poor Kurtis has not had a good night sleep in days so we wern't in any rush to do anything or book our boat. In the end we went with the agency attached to our lodge and decided to go "all out" and do a 2 day backwaters cruise on a boat that is modeled after a rice barge. The cruise is guarenteed to offer relaxation, soul rejuvination, cultural experience, romance, and spirituality. So we woke up the morning of my Birthday and set off on another adventure. Once again trusting the Universe that we are in good hands as we sail off in a boat with 3 indians that will take us out into the middle of nowhere somewhere in Southern India

Kerala - varkala beach

loveandjoy — Wed, 7 Jan 2009 21:02:00 GMT

Kurtis and I took a 15 hour busride from Pondicherry to Trivandrum in a "luxurious" bus...we got the last sleeper! A nice soft bed with windows on the top looking out at the world of India passing by. We got on and got to see the sunset and pass through wild towns and the woke up to a suprise of Mountains and Palm trees...absolutely beautiful.

We treated ourselves to 1.5 hour rickishaw ride to Varkala beach - well deserved and inspired by the lack of english at the bus station - and it sounded great especially because the soft beds don't keep you from rocking back and forth in your little cubby home on top of a bus. And besides...if our friends can spend time in a rickshaw for 2 weeks we can do 1.5 hours! We got dropped off...with no booked room of course, and lugged our packs on the beach to the walk "strip" path. It was a bit of a struggle...and hot...and tripping over a rock and faceplanting into the sand with a HUGE pack on my back didnt make the experience any more pleasent...Kurtis described it that I looked like a turtle and I was grateful to have a pack on the front of me too to break the fall. After I fell a big Indian man in a speado came over to offer his life guard skills and Kurtis proudly explained that he too has skills....and of course I wanted all attention drawn to me to go away. In the middle of getting through the pain and embarassment I looked down and noticed my sparkling ring shining through dirt and sand and sweat and took it as a new moment of beauty and awww and moved on.

After a bit of searching around we found our new home: shiva's moon - which actually is a great little nook of an area off the main "vegas Strip" in the central part of Varkala beach. What is great about the strip is it is on top of cliffs and therefore when you are at the beach and in the ocean the selling world and resteraunt world is seperate! We spent the first day settling into our new cozy mosquito net room and wondering around the strip and shops and beach and getting our toes wet. We celebrated our new laid back - definitly not harrasing India, pure white tourist culture - home for a bit and sat and had a wonderful fresh seafood dinner (We actually go and pick out the fish we want and they prepare it Kerala style) while watching the sunset. It was an absolutely picture perfect spot and evening...being with the love of my life, watching the movie of magic a perfect romance happen around me and as the sun set into the Arabian sea little lights of fishing boats started to pop out and eventually form what looked like a city floating in the water. Later we walked on the moon light beach and watched and listened and felt the white waves crashing.

The next day we woke and ate and headed off on a unplanned walking adventure. We wandered in the back streets of the strip that took us along paths of resorts, coconut tree farms, and banana tree jungles. We ended up back on the same path the shops are on but further north. Everything opened up into simple places, deserted beaches, local boat men and seafood gatheres, black beaches, and absolutely amazing beauty that continued to unfold every step that we took. It was such a peaceful and beautiful day..as is most of Varkala is.

Taj Mahal

loveandjoy — Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:29:00 GMT

It seems so long ago but definitly worth noting that the Taj Mahal was an out of this world site. Kurtis and I went at sunrise and wandered around the back sides as we watched the clouds and fog fade and lift and unveil this intrically built building made from love and ego. We were awwwwwed and speechless. There really are no words to desribe it....but SOOOO glad we did it!

Happy New Years!!!!!!

loveandjoy — Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:02:00 GMT

OK so things always happen in the most random ways and of course for a reason. After 24 hours of traveling that included delayed trains and planes from Agra to Pondicherry; Kurtis and I met a guy name troy on our final 3 hour busride to Pondicherry. Troy: originally from Australia but now lives in Bermuda, is on his way to participate in a Richshaw Run, where he and a friend are going to drive a 3-wheel mobile accross India in a race that is for charity, and for sheer purpose of doing something absolutely crazy and outside the box and adventurous to say the least. People from all over the world participate in this and it sounds hillarious and fun and a little bit of me is a bit envious.

We ended up staying at the same place Troy had booked - which was pure luck in itself because the whole city of Pondicherry was booked for NYE.

More racers arrived at the resort and in the end Kurtis and I were mangagers, and designers for the teams and we went to their NYE kickoff event and party. It was absolutley amazing to be in the middle of India surrounded by super fun free spirited people, on the lake, with dance music and great food, fire works, cake, laughter, and more. Kurtis was the first on the dance floor - a man after my heart:)!!!!!

The night ended with our group heading back to the resort at 2 in the AM with the two taxi's racing all the way - Wild Fun!

We had a great night and you must go to the website to see this event: http://rickshawrun.theadventurists.com/

AND if you haven't joined face book you should because the photos are going there now:)

and some how Kurtis and I ended up in some resort in Pondicherry where people from all over the world were staying and getting ready to take