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Theyyam Sisterhood

INDIA | Sunday, 25 March 2007 | Views [809]

Last night was one of the most incredible moments we’ve had during our travels. We had come to Tellicherry hoping to experience the local Keralan temple dance called theyyam dance. Apparently this dance is performed in local temples throughout Kerala during October and May, and is a highly local ritual, predating Hinduism. The temple we went to, Mulhappari Temple was 40 kilometers north of Tellicherry, but our driver was intent on getting us to see it. The dance is one of Kerala’s most ritualistic dances, and from what we understand, is performed as an offering to the deities and to ward off poverty and illness. There are upwards of 450 different temple dances that are performed in Kerala. At the temple entry, it was a bit of a carnival atmosphere. Little shop stalls liked the streets, leading up to the temple entrance. The temple itself was set on a river, the backside stairs submerged right down into the water. We were the only non-Indians. We were escorted around the back after removing our shoes, and partook in the ritualistic cleansing of our feet descending down the steps into the river. There were others bathing in the river, and one man even brushing his teeth with his fingers and the river water. We went inside; it was dark, with some fluorescent lighting high in the corners of the walls. There was a raised platform around the perimeter of the room, with enough room for visitors to stand/sit on. The left side was reserved for women, and the right- men only. As the room opened from the entranceway, there stood three towering bronze candle oil burners, nearly ¾ of the way up to the ceiling. In the center/back of the room, a wooden, carved temple structure that looked like an oversized dollhouse where the religious men were praying inside, half naked, adorned in white sheets around their waits. Then one holy man came out and lit a ton of oil wicks on the front of the wooden house-like structure and all around/up each of the towering burning oil stands. In come the drummers – probably 8-10 men with large jamba-type drums hanging from their waists. Scents of burning oil, flowers, and incense flood the room and our senses. Darrin and Raj went to sit with the men. I was immediately adopted by this little old woman next to me. She didn’t speak a word of English, but just kept on talking to me as if I spoke her language (Kanada). Indian sisters instantly surrounded me, all giving me warm smiles, chatting and reaching out to touch me. A warm, heartfelt welcome.

The ritual starts; drums and cymbals pounding, it vibrates throughout your entire body, and your heart beats in line with the drums. A man, dressed head to toe in yellow, red, white body-paint, red silk sarong, garlands of yellow and orange marigolds, thick metal ankle bracelets, and a magnificent headdress of orange, red, yellow, white flowers and gold dangly bits, waving swords emerged onto the scene. With swords swirling, he began a ritual blessing with offerings of flowers, and using fire and water over a large stone block. Another man enters the scene from the wooden house structure wearing a white sarong and carrying banana leaves. The drums beat louder, the painted man chants and blesses the offerings given to him from sarong man, and dances around the center alter with coconuts, rice, flowers and a miniature brass dog. A real dog cruises around the floor, swirling with commotion, not phased a bit with what’s happening. The painted man approaches the wooden house and circles the alter. With each circle, he is given a small silver teapot looking container from sarong man, from which he takes a sip, stomps his foot bracelets in a special dance move, and blesses more offerings presented by tapping his sword. He turns around after the blessing, and waves the sword ritualistically in front of the three towering oil burners. This continues for 45 minutes, round after round, until there are no little silver teapots left. He cuts up some banana leaves and hands them out to those lucky enough in the congregation to squeeze their way up front. The painted man is in a trance, and it’s like a deity had taken over his body, words and movements. The ceremony ends, after the offerings are handed out, and the drummers bring the sounds to a close. The whole ceremony was amazing to be a part of. Such an intense, intimate setting, and to be welcomed by those around us into their cultural and religious ceremony was one of those rare, magical moments. Unfortunately being welcome meant no pictures… as this was a real ritual not a tourist attraction. We wish we had some colorful pictures to share with you all, but we hope that our detailed account of the event provides some color for you to also enjoy.

Tags: Culture