A bloke called, "Bear" in Brisbane rented us a "Wicked" van. Some bright brisbanite is purchasing small white vans and cleverly making them into "camper" vans. Each come with its own spray paint design on the sides. We thought we'd be the only people in ALL Australia with a funky van. WRONG. We were to become unwitting members of the "Wicked van club," which meant that every "Wicked" van we passed (and there were loads) gave us waves and flashes. Not so bad.
I was hoping for, "Captain Caveman" or "Terminator" van. Maria was hoping for the (very pink) Barbie mobile!!! Yes right, somehow I don't think I'd be driving that one. Anyway we were given a van emblazoned with skulls, bats, fire, scythes and well.....every symbol of death you might think of. At least our valuables would be secure. I mean, who would dare to steal anything from a van owned by Satan himself???
We were receiving jealous glances from every goth in Brisbane as we headed out and on to the Bruce Highway - north. To infinity and beyond!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The destination - Cairns and better weather (we thought) - I was yearning to try an Australian custard apple and other tropical fruits from Australia. En route we planned to see Noosa, Fraser Isand, Rockhampton, Mackay and the Whitsundays.
The Noosa campsite was perched along the gorgeous river where pelicans make early morning trips to their own sand bank islands. The noisy "twitter and cheep," of lorikeets jostling for nectar in the trees woke us each day and spectacular sunsets over the water gave massive fruitbats a golden glow along one side. We loved the place. It was clean, friendly, relaxing, had perfect beaches and a phenominal park with wild koalas.
Did I mention that its winter in Australia? Well it was cold at times which prevented me from demonstrating to the Ozzie boys how surfing is done. (just as well!) The evenings could be as cold as England around Halloween but we still enjoyed the place. It had charm.
Back to the road and the signs were becoming ominous. Roadsigns flashed by...
"Survive this drive"
"Rest OR RIP"
"Fatigue crash zone"
As I passed over skeleton Creek I wondered what was more lethal, the wildlife or the roads?
Rockhampton further up is a different kettle of fish to Noosa. Or should I say slab of meat? This is Australias beef capital so feels like the wild west. We were camped near to the river under a large sign warning of crocodile attack! Here, I made some of the fastest trips to the toilet ever. My feet barely touched the ground from Camper van to toilet block.
Rockhampton is friendly enough and more mixed than any other town (including Brisbane) we have visited. It is however flat and lacks anywhere decent to eat.
The art gallery (touted by Lonley Planet as the best regional gallery in Australia) featured an exhibition on Aboriginal art (some contemporary) including stories about Rockhamptons past. We thought there could be more on the Aborigines especially as they were in the Rockhampton area for thousands of years before white settlers.
Its strange how many of the museums I have visited (in the world) have made me sad. This one was no different. Listening to stories about Aboriginal suffering under my ancestors is no fun. One small cause for happiness is that on Keppel island very recently (April 2007) the Aborigines were given back several parts of the island they once inhabited.
We did eat a great (but expensive) English breakfasts at The Coffee House on William Street. (expect the sausage to be beef!) They make all their own cakes, muffins and biscuits too which are a delight.
Mackay is larger than "Rocky" and hosts an art gallery too. More o that later.....
