Just off the Independence monument, in the heart of Phnom Penh lies a classy building of white pillars, warm teracotta coloured walls, airy spaces, water features and fig trees. "Malis," promotes itself as contemporary Khmer food but would it be a step closer in my quest for food enlightenment?
Seated in the "courtyard" area amongst the modern sofas, darkwood tables and plants we watched beautifully presented dishes emerge from the open kitchen. I also eyed up a well lit humidor (my kind of joint!)
We ordered two dishes each from an extensive menu divided by meat type - each page providing an illustration of the finished dish.
My stuffed, round aubergine came first, perfectly cooked to a softness and holding a combination of tiny, cubed vegetables lightly spiced with chilli, ginger and lemongrass. Green peppers usually associated with cheap ready meals added a crunchy contrast amongst the soft mixture of veggies - almost like a provencal but not. Forever keen to see how a chef handles vegetables this dish did not disappoint me or my chef friend.
Ian was won over by the pork prahok. Basically a plate of crudites (typical in Cambodia) with a tasty dip. Prahok is a deeply fishy sauce of fermented anchovies but this time it had the sweetness of minced pork, lime leaf and coconut with a curry-like texture. We avidly dipped our raw mango, carrot, cucumber and cabbage in the dip mmmmmm crunch slurp The flavours reminded me of a Thai banana flower salad.
Pork ribs Kako was another delicious dish but came like a thick soup in a bowl. It consisted of soft porky pieces, aubergine, pumpkin, spinach and courgette amidst a green liquid. Lime juice, fish sauce and pork provided a great team of flavours.
Amok is the Cambodian national dish, which, against my better judgement, I ordered. It arrived in three banana leaf bowls on a long boat! I had previously eated poor Amoks in the north and was sick of the thick, rich coconut flavour and little else.
This was, thankfully, entirely different. Flavoured noticeably with galangal, lime leaf, lemongrass and fish sauce I suggesteds to Ian that they had copied the Thai Tom ka soup - Ian said that it was the other way round. An inconclusive debate ensued.
Anyway the Amok was much thicker than previously with coconut being a supporting act rather than the star. Traditionally eaten with fingers this was a rewardingly fragrant choice.
Urged by the great experiences of our savoury dishes we both ordered a dessert.
Ian chose pumpkin brulee which disappointed him as it was overcooked and grainy. The flavour was ok but lacked creaminess in my view.
My Pumpkin cake however was a triumph. A soft, wet cakey texture set amongst light tapioca and splashes of coconut cream. Light, coconutty, smooth, comforting oh boy - this ranks close to my favourite dessert in London which incidently happens to be a yoghurt cake with pistachios and pomegrante served in Moro.
Indeed this restaurant could have easily stood up to any restaurant in London. I'd eat there.
Malis
136, Street, Norodom boulevard
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
(855) 23 22 10 22
e-mail luumeng@online.com.kh
